Jisoo Baik Couture Fall 2023

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Not many designers can boast dressing both Björk and Ariana Grande on the basis of a graduation collection. But that is the case for Central Saint Martins and IFM alum Jisoo Baik, who made her couture debut on Tuesday.

Her distinctive designs, which she likens to “floating architecture,” rely on wire hoops that gravitate around the body, combined with inspiration from couture greats like Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain.

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The architectural analogy was clear, with construction an appropriate description for her technique, but she also showed flair with her mastery of couture vocabulary updated for a world seeking drama in design viewed through a screen. Her creations gave a Space-Age feel to couture traditions, from taffeta gowns with floating hems to revealing dresses in Chantilly lace surrounded by what looked like planetary rings. Draping and pleating were key, with lightweight jersey layers appearing to flow across the body like liquid, the designs seeming to shape-shift depending on the angle from which they were viewed, delicate but with a strong personality.

Among the most elaborate pieces, a giant gold bow-like dress that almost seemed to hide the body had been the most difficult to build, she said, and had involved much trial and error — and tulle — to perfect. “It was challenging, but I really enjoyed it because I learned new techniques,” Baik said.

Launch Gallery: Jisoo Baik Couture Fall 2023

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