Jil Sander Pre-Fall 2022
The work of Lucie and Luke Meier can be compared to that of expert alchemists: The duo cautiously doses different elements to turn basic shapes into wonderful creations, experiments with crafty techniques to elevate fabrics and conjures the kind of fashion panaceas that can cure any streetwear fever and logomania. They might operate quietly but their touches can never go unnoticed.
This season, their skills shone bright in a charming, sophisticated collection that offered solace and reassurance to those women still feeling bereft over Phoebe Philo’s exit from Celine.
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With an intellectual approach and commitment to celebrating individualism by representing different women — or the multiple facets of the same woman — the designers combined elegance and ease; precise tailoring and fluidity; sculpted volumes and movement, overall injecting a dash of eccentricity into functional pieces.
A mix of strength and fragility was seen in a pristine knitted blouse and skirt embellished with sequined cutouts and in the French knot embroidery elevating a white shirt. Crochet details also enriched pleated separates that were chic and graceful with their uncomplicated silhouettes, while a bias-cut silk frock with fringes exuded femininity.
The brand’s distinctive tailoring was revisited with subtle tweaks, including balloon sleeves and scalloped hemlines on trenchcoats and a precious brooch that doubled as a closure system on a sharp, double-breasted coat.
Adding to the lineup’s graphic quality and eclectic vibe, textures played a key role and encompassed checkered mohair, velvet devoré, heavy wool, fuzzy shearling and leather. A standout mint wool coat with floral motifs and big, braided tassels on the back felt cozy.
In their constant exploration of craftsmanship, the Meiers continue to reveal new nuances of their aesthetic, maintaining the brand’s relevance. The only slight fault in this case was having to see the pieces through a screen rather than IRL and in movement — the designers should consider holding shows for pre-collections, too.
Launch Gallery: Jil Sander Pre-Fall 2022
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