Jeweler Bliss Lau on Crafting a Meaningful Custom Ring
When Bliss Lau came into my life, we made things official with a ring. Lau is a New York-based jeweler and, after I was introduced to her in fall 2019, we decided to craft a custom ring together. As someone who has never commissioned a custom piece of jewelry, it seemed like a daunting task—where to even begin?
We started with a stone. She showed me so many beautiful ones, each like a little piece of candy. Lau asked for my birthstone—opal—though I don’t actually own any opal jewelry. I never appreciated their beauty until I became an adult. Now, it's hard to imagine how I could resist them all these years. Their fiery colors remind me of the Arizona desert (where I grew up) and its beautiful sunsets.
"People often have visceral connections to stones and materials, whether they know it or not. I’m here to help you rediscover those connections," Lau said.
However, the pandemic put a halt to our in-person ring planning. Instead, we got on a Zoom call, where she spent what seemed like an hour asking me deep questions. It felt like she was trying to peek into my soul to capture it in the ring. She asked me things like, "What do you smell?" Mornings of Palo Santo on my yoga mat and evenings of lavender. "What textures do you feel?" Soft, smooth. "What do you want the design to be?" Something special, but that I could wear daily.
"Jewelry is one of the most personal expressions of our identity, connecting us to our lived experiences, sense of belonging, and to our family," Lau told me. I might not have understood all the questions at the time, but now, they make total sense.
By the end of summer 2020, Lau and I were able to meet in her studio so I could see her unique opals in person. We chose the one that spoke most to me—full of bright, fiery colors—and she started sketching on the spot. The more she drew, the more passionate we became about the design. It then took on even more meaning—the ring began to symbolize the beautiful, positive changes in my life over the last year.
Though Lau and I were creating something entirely new, many of the other commissions Lau received in 2020 were requests to rework existing jewelry. Because of this trend, Lau launched ReNew, which transforms an existing piece, stone, or material into a new design from her collection. The design of my ring that Lau and I created together, now lives in this collection.
Below, Lau answered some of my questions about her process and brand.
What is your process when designing a custom piece for a client?
Each client is different. I start by listening and adapt my process to support my clients and where they are in their lives. The process usually begins with choosing a stone and/or metal and building from there. In your case, we chose the opal, because you have a lifelong connection to it as your birthstone, and its fiery hues remind you of growing up in Arizona.
How did your process change during the pandemic?
The how of designing has stepped into the spotlight, because the why is something I already know so deeply. Why do I make jewelry? Because jewelry is one of the most personal expressions of our identity, connecting us to our lived experiences, sense of belonging, and to our family. The past year has reinforced my belief that each design decision—no matter how small—makes an impact.
Growing up in Hawaii taught me to respect the ocean and the land, so, during lockdown, I gave myself a design challenge. With a no-waste mindset, I asked myself to ‘shop my closet’ and design a collection using the excess metals and stones in my studio. What transpired is a series of limited edition and one-of-a-kind pieces designed in connection to my past like the Levitate Earring, but brighter and more colorful. Pieces that are joyful and light. They are available exclusively on our website.
Working with items preexisting, or post-consumer is one method I follow in our efforts to design consciously, but supporting miners and livelihoods is also a focus of our future designs. This requires a much more complex practice, involving supply chain transparency and an important review process of vetting our suppliers. I asked myself what I could do to directly support these communities beyond purchasing from them. We have donated to projects like the Moyo Gem Initiative, which offers a direct mine-to-market opportunity to support healthy sustainable businesses for women miners.
What were the most common commission requests you received last year?
I received a lot of requests for remaking existing jewelry into something new. People were home, reconnecting with their objects, and this inspired many to initiate a change. I had been contemplating launching a program focused solely on reworking pieces of the past to connect them to our current and future selves. I quickly realized this was something much needed by our community. We launched ReNew early this year, where we transform a piece, stone, or material you already own into a new design from our collection. My recent creations are about protection, joy, ancestry, and leading with kindness.
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