Jean Theory Fills a Void in Premium Denim Retail
Shopping for premium denim shouldn’t be complicated.
That’s the mission behind Jean Theory, the Charlottesville, Va. and newly minted Richmond, Va. women’s premium denim boutiques.
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Mandy Edwards bought the original Charlottesville store last January after serendipitously hearing through a friend that the owner was planning to sell. At the time, Edwards, who was a Jean Theory customer, was considering opening her own denim boutique.
Edwards quickly set out to duplicate the 15-year-old store’s success with a second location closer to her home in Richmond. The store opened last November just in time for holiday shopping.
“Charlottesville is a tiny little jewel box of a store. It’s the cutest store ever. So much character and personality,” she said.
Located in a former ceramic restoration studio, the 1,200-square-foot boutique was seemingly destined to be a denim hotspot. During renovation, contractors uncovered the original “denim blue” tin ceiling in pristine condition. “We had to do nothing to it…our neighbors directly next door don’t have that ceiling…it was meant to be,” Edwards said.
From top to bottom, the new store aims to be a haven for premium denim fans. Customers are greeted with a “denim wall” that showcases the variety of washes. Brushed gold accents, industrial-looking clothing racks and bohemian decorations captures the premium denim market’s elevated yet casual aesthetic. Spacious dressing rooms allow customers to settle in and get comfortable during the sometimes-complicated try-on process for jeans.
Growing Jean Theory’s online business is a goal for 2024, but nothing beats shopping for jeans in stores, Edwards said.
“What sets Jean Theory apart is the ability for customers to come in and try on and walk away with a great pair that because you just can’t do it here unless you order online,” she said.
As local department stores downsized their sales floor and others vacated shopping malls all together, Edwards said the opportunities to shop for jeans in person have dwindled—especially for premium denim brands.
In Richmond, there are no surviving department stores, she said. Stony Point Fashion Park, an outdoor mall built in the 2000s, is mostly vacant apart from a Saks Fifth Avenue, which she said is shrinking its sales floor, and a Dillard’s doesn’t have a strong denim selection let alone premium. Another nearby mall in Short Pump, Va. has Gap, Madewell, Hollister and Old Navy, but it also lacks access to premium labels.
The retail landscape in Charlottesville, Va. is similar despite being a destination for a broad demographic. A true college town with University of Virginia in its backyard, Charlottesville is also wine and horse country, which draws an upscale crowd. An Anthropologie carrying Mother Denim is Jean Theory’s closest physical competitor in the premium denim game.
Jean Theory’s stocklist includes AG, Agolde, Citizens of Humanity, Etica, Hudson, Joe’s Jeans, Moussy, Paige and Pistola. Fits span skinny, straight, relaxed, vintage, bootcut, flare, wide leg and cropped. Knits and blouses from Bobi, Perfect White Tee, Rails, Velvet and Sundays complement the denim assortment.
At least one person a day comes into the stores asking if skinny jeans are out, but Edwards maintains that the fit is a wardrobe staple.
Offering expert advice is even more important as consumers navigate the category’s looser and wider fits. Edwards said sometimes customers come in asking what type of tops or shoes to wear with bootcut or wide-leg jeans. The Jean Theory staff supplies them with options to try out before they buy.
“Both of my managers are so well versed in denim,” Edwards said. She encourages her staff to try on the products and familiarize themselves with every detail from inseams and wash to pocket placement.
Shoppers are encouraged to do the same as the sales staff take mental notes on what works and what doesn’t. “I will say my, Richmond manager is so great. I love to watch her because she’ll just feed people more jeans and more jeans in the dressing room… she she continues to look,” Edward said.
Bootcuts have been a surprising success this season. Joe’s Provocateur, a petite bootcut, has been “flying out the door,” she said. Another bestseller is Citizens of Humanity’s Lilah, a high-rise bootcut. Relaxed straight fit are trending with a younger crowd, while Citizens of Humanity’s horseshoe is proving to appeal to all ages.
Some consumers are showing interest in jeans with a higher cotton content, she added. Others remark when a jean is made with organic or regenerative cotton.
Looking forward, Edwards is entertaining the idea of adding men’s if she finds another market for a third store. She’s also planning to scale Jean Theory’s digital footprint beyond Virginia. The store already receives orders from California, Alabama, Connecticut, and Canada, underscoring the effort consumers are willing take to find the perfect premium jean.
