Jacquemus’s Latest Show Was Inspired by Princess Diana

When you get burned out at work, the joke is always: Let’s quit our jobs and run away to the South of France. If any one person could actually convince you to take that leap, it would be designer Simon Porte Jacquemus. Since 2009, his eponymous brand has sold a vision of an eternal French summer by the ocean. To be a Jacquemus girl is to have not a care in the world, which is why your mini Chiquito bag—the brand’s signature–is the size of your palm and can hold absolutely nothing of use. You spend your days lounging in fields of lavender wearing teeny-tiny tops held together by the smallest pin at the chest, and your out-of-office email is always on.

Earlier today, Jacquemus held its Fall 2023 show, titled “Le Chouchou,” in Versailles. The runway—like, the actual physical runway—went viral before a model even walked down it, because it was laid out along the water, with guests seated in white rowboats floating on the Grand Canal.

The front row included celebrities in pairings both expected, like Victoria and David Beckham, and delightfully surprising, like Colombian pop star Karol G and image architect Law Roach. The images circulating felt different than the standard front row shots. There was less smizing and more smiling, as if people were actually on vacation, which is truly the Jacquemus way. It's why his venues almost always go as viral—people want to go to there, and his clothing is the one-way ticket.

Ahead of the show, he told WWD that the venue was fulfilling a childhood dream. “We are not going to take a literal approach, so it will be a slightly more poetic Versailles than the classic Versailles extolled by the big French houses,” he said. The collection certainly was far from traditional. The bulbous lace silhouettes and bows typical of formal court attire were present, but reimagined as mini-skirts and see-through lingerie tops. Square-toe ballet pumps were worn with knee-high white lace socks embroidered with floral prints.

Along with Versailles itself, Jacquemus said Princess Diana was an inspiration, which was most clearly see in the sapphire pearl jewelry that adorned Kendall Jenner's neck and ears, an evident nod to the Di's famous engagement ring and revenge dress choker. Jenner's large puff top engulfed her entire torso like a cloud, which could be seen as a call to Princess Diana's puff-sleeve wedding gown.

By contrast, Gigi Hadid's look was entirely sheer, held together by thin straps tied into bows revealing a white bandeau top and panties. Imaan Hammam wore a structured blazer nipped at her hips with a strap fastened along her collarbones, and a pair of white bubble micro shorts styled over stockings with black cap-toe Mary Janes. In her finger dangled a Jacquemus bag the size of her pinky. Ahead of the show, she uploaded a photo on her Instagram story of the mood board backstage. In the corner, the Princess Diana outfit that Hammam's look was modeled after was clearly visible: the striped puffball skirt Lady Di wore to Cannes in 1987, styled underneath a tight white blazer with black cap-toe pumps.

Danish model Mona Tougaard closed the show in a bright red nipple-baring lace top left unbuttoned at her belly, falling into a long thin train that followed behind her and blended into the runway. The two models that walked before her had the same exact look rendered in white and blue, appearing in the order of the French flag.

The show is currently trending on Twitter, where it has sparked a conversation about the Marie Antionette and Princess Diana references, as well as the brand's progression. But the one thing everyone is saying could have easily been anticipated days ago: “I wish I was there."

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