Jacquemus Embraces Delicate Femininity for Fall 2023

If there's one thing Simon Porte Jacquemus loves to do, it's to stage not just a show, but an experience.

On a sunny day at Versailles, a red carpet lined the edge of one of the property's lakes, attendees eagerly sitting in bobbing canoes on the water. As baroque court music began to play, a model in a white mesh squareneck tank top and underwear walked out, setting the tone for the brand's Fall 2023 collection, titled "Le Chouchou".

Though the overarching theme didn't veer too far from the designer's typical minimal, just-undone-enough fare, the essence of the clothing feels different: Instead of his signature linens and more beach-leaning attire, Jacquemus reaches for more sheer, ethereal fabrics, like lace, tulle and organza. He also plays with proportion in ways he hasn't before, like with hip pads that create a ballgown silhouette in what appears to be an homage to the palace's most notorious resident, Marie Antoinette, as well as puff-sleeved mini dresses that call Princess Diana to mind. (The culottes and oversized puffy sleeves also offer a link back to regal dressing.)

We know Jacquemus isn't afraid of showing a little skin, and that theme continues for Fall 2023, with models mostly wearing bikini and bra tops. Coverage began to increase slowly but surely with each passing look, though: Tutus and knee-high stockings fuel the never-ending balletcore fire, while low-rise maxi skirts and lower-than-they-should-be belts feed the ongoing Y2K phenomenon. Standouts like semi-opaque tights printed with a single rose, mini skirts with multiple rows of belt loops and even tinier purses than usual are sure to become the brand's latest viral hits.

Though no Jacquemus show feels anything far from romantic and alluring, this classic approach to some longstanding trends feels like his most enchanting yet. Discover the brand's "Le Chouchou" collection below.

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