Italy’s Land of Fertility Is a Thriving Hub for Food & Wine
Photo by Matthew Kaner
Ask a wine lover about their bucket-list destinations, and Sicily is very likely to be in their top three. Ditto for food lovers.
Partly it’s the volcanic rock (Etna is inescapable), and the extreme viticulture that entails. Partly it’s Sicily’s location as a crossroads of so many maritime pathways and currents (literally). Partly it’s the robust cultural interchanges that give rise to meals that feature everything from cous cous and saffron to tuna and pasta.
Sicily has it all. Including a certain remoteness that, for me, goes beyond geography. Fortunately Matthew has just returned from the island and will report on his most recent experiences in a moment. I’ve been only once, last year; “beguiling” is the single word that captures my memories the best.
As an entry point, much of the Sicilian experience is familiar: there are wineries, tasting rooms, vineyard tours, restaurants. Immediately below that entry point, though, is an intricate network of carefully woven relationships, both personal and commercial, that are obscure to visitors yet buttress the overall experience.
As visitors, our concern is primarily the result of those relationships, that is, the wines, historical presentation, food, and hospitality that make Sicily such a compelling, beguiling destination.
Before you go: One of the greatest resources on Sicily is a wine book co-authored by my very first teacher of wine, Bill Nesto MW. Check out The World of Sicilian Wine. Bill is American but has spent so much time on the island that he has peeled back a few of the layers of the Sicilian onion.
Photo by Elizabeth Hooker
Last year I had to painfully decline two different invitations to Sicily, and it broke my heart into pieces. Imagine my surprise when I accepted a trip to Italy, without fully understanding that a leg of the visit was in fact to the magical island. Two days on the windswept volcanic formation was obviously not enough...I cannot wait to get back. Here's a few reasons why:
The Landscape
Flying into Palermo, you are jettisoned parallel to the impressive cliffs and hilltops right at the water's edge. It's a sight to behold as you gather yourself to touch land on such a special rock formation. If you fly into Catania, it's possible you'll get to marvel at Mount Etna, an active volcano that also boats some of the most famous Sicilian vineyards. Sprawling vineyards, fields of wheat, citrus trees, cactus, grasses and flowers as far as the eye can see. All with rolling hills and peaks that bring your eye to their attention. The landscape is truly stunning.
The Food
Castelvetrano olives. Panelle. Arancini. Pasta alla Norma. Cannoli. I am drooling just typing the words. Sicily has literally been the bread basket and pantry for wars and movements of troops and citizens for thousands of years among the Mediterranean. If I arrived here, I would never want to leave.
The Wine
My host was Tenuta Regaleali, one of the Tasca d'Almerita properties. It's been in the family for generations, and they take this valley quite seriously. It's a two hour drive into oblivion from Palermo, and I promise you, you'll never want to leave. The views of rolling hills, vineyards planted on the best expositions, cows grazing with bells around their necks so you can hear where the herd is moving. This feels like its own planet, entirely. Nero d'Avola & Perricone are the top dogs in this part of Sicily, but you'll also be dazzled by Carricante, Grillo, and their Nerello Mascalese Rosé (not grown on Etna!) will blown your dang mind. Lorenzo & Valerio took amazing care of us at the property, only showing us a small cross-section of what their Contea di Sclafani DOC is all about.
I cannot wait to get back and explore more of the island, diving into every nook and cranny to discover all of its vinous and culinary delights. I hope I can get back soon.
