Institut Français de la Mode Students Open Paris Men’s, and More Fashion News
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Paris Debut: For the first time, the BA students of the Institut Français de la Mode opened the men’s schedule of Paris Fashion Week with a runway show presenting their graduate collections.
The school’s MA students have been opening the women’s shows in March since 2021.
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The looks were spectacular, broaching topics that ranged from androids and pageantry to faraway escapes and what could sprout after a “best before” date. Techniques and materials were as varied as they come, ranging from textile and wicker to latex and even cigarette filters sewn together into a fluffy cocoon.
“What I found really great — and something we try to avoid with [faculty] — is that there isn’t an IFM ‘style,’” said the school’s general manager Xavier Romatet after the show. “And we don’t want one. We want to give them all the tools they need to truly express themselves and we saw the [resulting] diversity of creative territories.”
Although these students started the curriculum under the shadow of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, program heads Thierry Rondenet and Hervé Yvrenogeau felt the class of 2023 had blossomed.
“Each one of them has the keys to their house. At most, we guide them to the door — or sometimes the lock,” said Yvrenogeau with evident fondness as students buzzed around happily, packing their designs and congratulating each other on a job well done.
Among the highlights were the intricate pleats of Janine Sirbovan, who hails from Romania, and the odd dandies of Robin Mayet’s “Rhythm & Nostalgia.” Germany’s Paula Dischinger asked whether “the human being is a herd animal” by superimposing shadowy shapes on her designs. For Jiawei Han, the harried workers spotted coming out of offices around the school were the inspiration for “White Collar System,” made from those cigarettes materializing the stress of it all and a buff latex body that turned out to be a “skin suit” with shirt and tie underneath.
Meanwhile, the collection of French designer Lucie Savarin and her casting that included wheelchair users left Romatet touched by the way she embraced all human bodies.
For the school executive, the bachelor level degree is the “most creative terrain” for young designers. “The more mature you get, the more constrained you are. [The BA students] have the freedom of youngsters who are experimenting,” he said.
“All we asked is that they inscribe their work in a reality, political, creative or even economic, because too often fashion is out of phase with what’s happening and is seen only as an escape,” Yvrenogeau said.
With 250 students hailing from some 30 nationalities in the three-year program created in 2019, some 70 graduates come out with the French school’s BA in fashion design.
But they aren’t expected back at the IFM for an MA quite yet — if ever.
“Most of them need a break and we encourage them to go apply what they learned in studios,” Romatet said. “Fashion is a formidable platform for this and we will have given them the keys to personal accomplishment, be it in fashion or in any other field.” — LILY TEMPLETON
Michael’s Mission: Ahead of the major Pride march scheduled for this weekend in New York, Michael Kors joined together with Interview Magazine to host a talk at the legendary Stonewall Inn. The designer was in conversation with Interview’s editor in chief Mel Ottenberg about their own experiences with Pride, New York City, drag and more. The exchange was emceed by none other than “RuPaul’s Drag Race” stars Symone and Gigi Goode, dressed in Michael Kors Collection of course.
The evening was a continuation of the relationship between the Michael Kors brand and The Stonewall Inn. This year for Pride, Michael Kors announced a new partnership with the Stonewall National Monument Visitor Center through an initial charitable donation, as well as a tote bag branded with both the Michael Kors and Stonewall Inn branding, sales of which will raise money for the visitor center (and the tote will remain on sale throughout the year). Michael Kors is one of the founding supporters of the newly endowed Stonewall National Monument Visitor Center, the United States National Parks Services’ first visitor center dedicated to LGBTQ rights and history.
The Tuesday night event was attended by New York drag performers West Dakota, Serena Tea, Mo’Riah and more. — LEIGH NORDSTROM
Party Time: The Veronica Beards know how to throw a party fair.
Sisters-in-law Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard took over Lina Ghotmeh Serpentine Summer Pavilion in Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park to kick off the summer season.
Guests in attendance included Jenna Coleman, Ramla Ali, Naomi Ackie and Poppy Delevingne.
The fairground was complete with a taco and posh dog station, as well as mini fish and chips being handed to guests as they roamed the grounds.
All of the guests received a playing card, which they had to complete by playing classic carnival games such as a hook a duck, ball and bucket and coconut shy — for each game won, the guests would win a sticker that they could later redeem at the gift station, giving them a chance to win Veronica Beard prizes, such as the blue Miller Dickey jacket, to items from Charlotte Tilbury, Daniel Galvin, 34 Mayfair, Elemis and Nécessaire.
A fortune teller dressed in bright pink set up a small station inside the pavilion.
“It was a marriage of American carnivals and English fairs,” Miele Beard said.
“We are celebrating this great fortune we have of being on Bruton Street and it’s a celebration of the women of London,” Swanson Beard added.
The Beards said their favorite part of the city is attending high tea.
“We had the best scone today at the Beaumont Hotel,” Miele Beard said.
They settled the controversial debate of whether the clotted cream or jam comes first — the design duo agreed they preferred clotted cream first.
Employees from investment management company Blackstone attended the event.
“Veronica Beard has infiltrated all businesses, women everywhere of all industries,” one of the guests said.
The women from Blackstone often hold events at the Veronica Beard store in partnership with Smart Works to help women get back into the workforce by giving them clothes, interview tips and donating money to charities.
The night ended with DJs Amber Le Bon and Sydney Lima taking to the stage inside the pavilion playing hits from Destiny’s Child, Gwen Stefani to ending with Rihanna’s “Umbrella.” — HIKMAT MOHAMMED
New York Dance: The BAAND Together Dance Festival is returning to Lincoln Center for its third summer.
The five-day outdoor festival, made possible by Chanel, will feature performances by several of New York’s top dance companies including Ballet Hispánico, Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater, American Ballet Theatre, New York City Ballet and Dance Theatre of Harlem. All of the performances are free and open to the public as part of Lincoln Center’s “Summer for the City” programming.
The BAAND Together Dance Festival will include the world premiere of a new duet, “Pas de O’Farill,” choreographed by Pedro Rui and performed by dancers from Ballet Hispánico and New York City Ballet. Also on the week’s lineup is “Other Dances” by Jerome Robbins and “Dancing Spirit,” Ronald K. Brown’s tribute to former Alvin Ailey artistic director Judith Jamison. Choreography by Justin Peck, Robert Garland and Annabelle Lopez Ochoa will also be showcased throughout the week. An all-ages educational workshop, run by the participating dance companies, will take place each afternoon prior to the performances.
In a collective statement, the artistic directors of the five dance companies described the festival as “a testament to the vibrancy and diversity of the New York City dance community. We are thrilled to be returning with a spectacular program that features the city’s most internationally revered repertory companies. This year’s program highlights the innovative visions that have made New York City our nation’s dance capital.”
Chanel sponsored the inaugural edition of the BAAND Together Dance Festival in summer 2021, as well as last year’s festival. A longtime supporter of the performing arts, Chanel continues to pay homage to founder Gabrielle Chanel’s commitment to dance through worldwide partnerships. The fashion house is an official partner for the Nijinsky Awards in Monaco, and patron of the Opera de Paris’ Opening Gala and Paris Opera Ballet. In February 2022, Chanel contributed design to the Paris Opera Ballet’s tribute to late dancer and artistic director Patrick Dupond. — KRISTEN TAUER
Polished Pop-up: Swedish fashion label J.Lindeberg is polishing its fashion credentials with the launch of a three-month summer pop-up at Harrods this week.
The 26-square-meter space will offer a curated selection of the summer holiday collection, which is inspired by the vibrant spirit of Miami and the laid-back atmosphere of the Swedish west coast.
The space is accompanied by a window display featuring two melting purple coconut trees, with a blue polo shirt and a pair of zebra shorts hanging on one of them.
Hans-Christian Meyer, chief executive officer of J.Lindeberg, said activations with key fashion players like Harrods present “a great opportunity to bring our brand to life and showcase our latest collection at one of the world’s most prestigious retail destinations.”
Under the leadership of Meyer, who used to work as president of retail for Ralph Lauren’s European operations, revenue has more than doubled over the past two years, increasing from $60 million in 2020 to $130 million last year, with further growth expected this year.
While it’s primarily known for its golfwear in the U.S., the brand, which was founded by Johan Lindeberg, the former marketing director of Diesel in 1996, has been adopting a more fashion-focused positioning.
Fashion product now accounts for 40 percent of the brand’s global sales, and is set to take up even higher percentages once getting the desired brand positioning right.
In the eyes of Meyer, this Harrods pop-up is expected to “further solidify our position in the world of sports fashion.”
On top of the J.Lindeberg pop-up, Harrods has unveiled a series of new spaces to keep customers excited this summer. Celine this week launched its specialized Haute Parfumerie space on the ground floor in the beauty hall, while Manolo Blahnik introduced its first men’s pop-up on the second floor.
The retailer last week also opened a “Lingerie and Lounge Universe,” part of a 200 million pound-plus, 10-year storewide refurbishment. The first-floor space, which spans roughly 16,000 square feet, is 50 percent larger than the previous one.
It is the first reopening on the womenswear floor, which will be progressively refurbished in a long-term project set to wrap up in 2026. — TIANWEI ZHANG
Entertainment Deal: Content group Banijay has signed an agreement to acquire a majority stake in live entertainment player Balich Wonder Studio, which is expected to lead to a leading global media and entertainment company.
Banijay is home to more than 130 production companies across 21 territories, and a multigenre catalogue boasting more than 160,000 hours of original programming.
The group represents some of the biggest global brands in the market including “Survivor,” “Big Brother,” “Peaky Blinders,” “MasterChef” and “Mr. Bean,” to name a few.
The company was launched in 2008 and is led by chief executive officer Marco Bassetti.
“Complementary to us in its ambition and entrepreneurialism, Balich has risen to be top of its game in the live-event space, and via this acquisition, there is huge potential for further pioneering growth,” said Bassetti, defining the partnership as “a one-stop shop for creativity.”
Founded in 2013 by Marco Balich, Gianmaria Serra and Simoner Merico, Milan-based Balich Wonder Studio has quickly grown to be a prestigious live event creator and service provider, and credited with the organization of the 2022 Qatar FIFA World Cup and the 2016 Rio Olympic Games ceremonies, for example. It has also delivered a range of exclusive events for top brands including Louis Vuitton, Ferrari, Dolce & Gabbana, UEFA, Maserati, Bulgari and IWC, among others. Balich Wonder Studio posted revenues of 315 million euros in 2022.
“We are glad that a world-class player like Banijay has chosen a committed creative team with the ambition to become the world’s most prestigious live entertainment group. Together we feel empowered to accelerate this journey,” said Balich Wonder Studio chairman Marco Balich.
Founded in 2013, the group comprises a team of more than 280 people from 20 countries, and operates in Europe and the Middle East through four divisions: Ceremonies, Destination Experience, Immersive Show and Brand Experiences. It has also created landmark icons like the symbol of World Expo — the “Tree of Life” and the “Whale Shark” in Doha last year.
The acquisition is expected to close in the coming months. — LUISA ZARGANI
Soccer Style: As one of the few sports that many countries have a near-constant interest in, soccer is prized by both athletic and fashion brands alike.
The Italian street-style specialist Slam Jam is the latest to secure its ties through a new partnership with the soccer-rooted Umbro lifestyle brand for North America and select European markets. This is familiar ground for the two brands, which collaborated for the past two seasons in the Italian market.
As the latest partner to link up with Umbro, Slam Jam designs won’t be found on the playing field. The company is Umbro’s official licensee for the T0 and T1 lifestyle segment. The multiyear partnership includes the launch of a 30-piece collaborative collection that will be sold in select stores.
The athletic-focused Umbro has a soccer heritage dating back to 1924. By the ’50s, Umbro had teamed up with leading sports authorities to create performance-oriented garments. While top-notch players like Lionel Messi, Cristiano Ronaldo and Neymar rocketed the sport into another stratosphere, non-soccer fans are increasingly interested in the soccer look. The new alliance between Slam Jam and Umbro aims to tap into that.
Slam Jam has always taken a street-inspired stance since its early days in 1989. This month, the global collaboration debuts with the spring 2024 collection, which is being shown in Slam Jam’s showrooms in Milan and Paris. The U.S. market offers sales opportunity, considering about 25 percent of sports fans in America — 83 million people — show an interest in soccer, compared to the international average of 40 percent, according to a Sports Innovation Lab report released earlier this year.
Umbro has been stretching more into non-athletic hook-ups as of late, including a Charles Jeffrey Loverboy shoe one and a New Order shirt tie-up. Earlier this spring, the company debuted an upcycling campaign with Nova Norgaard.
Unveiling the deal with Umbro, Slam Jam founder Luca Benini noted that brand’s relevance “across multiple generations of football enthusiasts and beyond,” adding that both parties share values, as well as “a strong passion for the game and commitment to the people.” — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG
Puma China: Puma has named Shirley Li its new general manager of China.
Li, who joined Puma earlier this year as commercial director, will replace Philippe Bocquillon, who is moving into the role of Puma’s area manager for Greater China as well as general manager of Puma Hong Kong. Paul Yu will remain the general manager of Puma Taiwan. Bocquillon became the head of Puma China in 2014, after serving in several executive positions at Adidas in China.
Both Li and Yu will report directly to Bocquillon.
Li, a Shanghai local, has worked as the vice president of wholesale at Adidas China and has more than 20 years of experience in sporting goods. Li graduated from Fudan University with a law degree.
David Lu, who joined Puma this March, will take over as commercial director at Puma. Lu most recently worked as the general manager of Levi’s retail operations in China.
All appointments will be effective July 1.
“I am very excited that we will open a new chapter for Puma China under the new leadership of Shirley,” said Puma chief executive officer Arne Freundt.
“I want to thank Philippe for more than 10 years as [general manager] of Puma China. He has done a great job under often very challenging circumstances and I wish him all the best for his new role as area manager,” Freundt added.
Earlier this month, Freundt embarked on his first China tour since becoming CEO last November. Freundt met with the local team and visited Puma stores in Beijing, Shanghai, Wuhan and Hong Kong.
Li is tasked with keeping up Puma China’s sales momentum after two years of decline due to COVID-19.
The region rebounded in the first quarter, which helped Puma attain a 27.4 pecent growth to 476 million euros in the Asia Pacific region. Gains in the EMEA region registered 25.4 percent, while sales in North America slipped 0.8 percent. — DENNI HU
Developing AI: Stylitics, the AI-powered digital merchandising and styling platform, has tapped Juliana Prather as chief marketing office, a new post. She will be responsible for developing and executing the company’s global marketing and brand strategies, reporting to Rohan Deuskar, founder and chief executive officer of Stylitics.
According to Deuskar, Prather’s “experience and leadership as a global marketing leader in the retail industry make her the perfect addition to our company.
“She understands the importance of the customer experience for retail success and the power of AI-driven retail tech to help retailers scale and drive personalized style inspiration. We look forward to adding her extensive knowledge at Stylitics during this exciting stage of growth,” he said.
Prather will lead the company’s messaging and growth initiatives, including new retail tech SaaS solutions coming this fall. Fluent in three languages, she is expected to help lead the next evolution of Stylitics’ growth through her knowledge of retail and international markets.
Most recently, Prather was chief marketing officer at global retail analytics provider Edited. Earlier in her career she held leadership posts at such brands as Nine West Group, Lysse, Liz Claiborne Inc., Superga USA, and Maidenform.
“Stylitics has positioned itself as a leader in retail tech with solutions for customer-first shopping experiences. I am very excited to be a part of the company in this phase of innovation and product expansion,” said Prather. “I am a believer in the company’s mission and ability to transform the shopping experience by supporting retailers with technologies that drive revenue and support their product and brand strategies. The team and leadership at Stylitics are committed to better experiences for retailers and shoppers, and I look forward to being a part of this journey.”
Stylitics works with such brands as Macy’s, Kohl’s, Revolve and Puma, among others, to engage more than 100 million shoppers globally each day. To date Stylitics has driven more than $4 billion in incremental revenue for its customers with 200 million plus additional units sold from more than 4,500 brands and retailers. — LISA LOCKWOOD
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