Be inspired by Jackie Kennedy and make chinos your summer weekend style solution

First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy wearing white chinos in Hyannis Port. - Corbis Premium Historical
First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy wearing white chinos in Hyannis Port. - Corbis Premium Historical

I am a recent convert to a chino. When it’s as hot as this summer has turned out to be, the idea of pulling on a pair of jeans makes me feel quite ill. Imagine the horror of a lightweight wool? That’s no life. Chinos fashioned from a serviceable but crisp cotton? Ideal.

It’s the answer to so many heat-based wardrobe issues. You need to look smart at work? Chino. You want to do Jackie Kennedy in Hyannis Port, even though you’re only off to your local garden centre? Chino. You’ve made a grave error of accepting an invitation to play rounders in the park? Chino. Church fete on a windy day? Chino. Fashion might be in the throes of a borderline-addictive obsession with The Dress, but it seems that no one has thought about what happens when an errant gust of wind catches you out. Thankfully, for you, I have. Guess what? Chino.

Fake nail blouse, £295 (sarklondon.com) Cropped stretch cotton-blend pants, £790, Brunello Cucinelli (Net-a-porter.com) Espadrille, £26 (wallis.co.uk)
Fake nail blouse, £295 (sarklondon.com) Cropped stretch cotton-blend pants, £790, Brunello Cucinelli (Net-a-porter.com) Espadrille, £26 (wallis.co.uk)

Fake nail blouse, £295, S.a.r.k, Cropped stretch cotton-blend pants, £790, Brunello Cucinelli, Net-a-porter, Espadrille, £26, Wallis

With its natural hues being khaki and camel, it’s unsurprising that the chino has a military background. My research tells me that its first reference was back in 1898, in the Philippines during the Spanish-American War: the Americans’ uniforms were made from Chinese twill cotton. (“Chino” comes from the Spanish name for China.)

This laid-back but serviceable five-pocket trouser became a bedrock of wholesome Americana: it’s relaxed- yet-smart bent provided the perfect sartorial base for the quintessential preppy look – for men and women. Chinos were Ivy League. Chinos made America Great. It’s no wonder that the current First Lady has been spotted exiting Air Force One wearing them.

Gold plated chain tassel ear drops, £210, Tay (byrory.com) Elasticated-back cotton chino trousers, £225, Raey (matchesfashion.com) Cropped cotton navy poplin trousers, £59 (cosstores.com) Hazel polka dot frill blouse, £85 (kitristudio.com)
Gold plated chain tassel ear drops, £210, Tay (byrory.com) Elasticated-back cotton chino trousers, £225, Raey (matchesfashion.com) Cropped cotton navy poplin trousers, £59 (cosstores.com) Hazel polka dot frill blouse, £85 (kitristudio.com)

Gold plated chain tassel ear drops, £210, Tay, By Rory, Elasticated-back cotton chino trousers, £225, Raey, Matchesfashion, Cropped cotton navy poplin trousers, £59, Cos, Hazel polka dot frill blouse, £85, Kitri

This season’s update is a loose-leg chino. There are some very wide ones knocking around, but I would counsel caution – too much crisp cotton doesn’t hang well. Look for slightly tailored and cropped styles. It’s best to not mess with a classic. This is good news if you have a pair in the back of the wardrobe. A faded, lived-in chino is quite the thing – just roll over the bottoms a couple of times to get a nice turn-up. Adding polka dots, a shirt with a twist (S.a.r.k is an excellent source of great white shirts) or an elegantly oversized earring will keep you on the right side of fashion history.

 

TRACKING THE TREND 

Effortless Grace...1954

Grace Kelly doing excellent Wasp style in chinos and a black sleeveless top.  - Credit: Gene Lester. /Getty. 
Grace Kelly doing excellent Wasp style in chinos and a black sleeveless top. Credit: Gene Lester. /Getty.

As a poster girl for East Coast Wasp style, of course Grace Kelly wore chinos.  Look at that sleeveless polo neck combination! The perfectly coiffed bob and scant make up. Modern day off-duty A listers really could try harder.

The trouser politic...1997

Diana, Princess of Wales in Angola. - Credit: Ian Jones. 
Diana, Princess of Wales in Angola. Credit: Ian Jones.

In wearing chinos, accessorised with her trusty Tod’s loafers and a concerned expression, Princess Diana solved the head scratching dilemma of what the modern, thinking woman should wear to a demilitarised war zone. Compassion never looked so stylish.

Making Melania great again...2018

Melania Trump exits Air Force One in a crisp white chino and candy pink sweater.  - Credit: Saul Loebsaul. /Getty. 
Melania Trump exits Air Force One in a crisp white chino and candy pink sweater after spending the weekend in Bedminster, New Jersey. Credit: Saul Loebsaul. /Getty.

Following her Zara jacket debacle (featuring the slogan: I don’t care do you? The reaction to which is best summed up as, awkward) Mrs Trump seems keen to get back on less emotive wardrobing territory. Enter a pure white chino: as American as the right to bear arms.