An Insider’s Guide to Lisbon from the Duo Behind the City’s Coolest Boutique Hotel
The moment you walk in to The Lisboans, a boutique hotel set in a former Lisbon factory, you feel right at home. That has been the goal of owners Tânia Fonseca and Isaac Almeida from the start: for guests “to not only take with them good memories from their trip abroad, but also from the place where they stayed, their home away from home.” Tânia and Isaac met and fell in love while working as art directors at the same ad agency. They married, started a family, and then decided to create The Lisboans, 15 masterfully, locally furnished apartments. Sharing a love for art, architecture, design, and Lisbon, their main source of design inspiration has been their own home, where they have lived with their two sons for eight years.
Each room of the hotel has large French windows opening on to the cobblestone streets of Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood, the Alfama, below, as well as a modern kitchen stocked with breakfast items like yogurt, fruit, and granola. In the morning, a tote bag is left hanging on every front door with fresh juice and pastries.
In addition to the hotel, Fonseca and Almeida, along with Fonseca’s sisters, Marta and Marisa, also own Prado and Prado Mercearia, a full service farm to table restaurant and a grocery, respectively. Both are situated on the ground floor just beneath The Lisboans, giving guests places to sleep, eat, and shop all in one. It’s pretty clear this place was made for the traveler who doesn’t want to feel like a tourist. And just as much as they want you to feel at home inside The Lisboans, they also want you to get out and explore their city. Below, their must-see spots for anyone planning to make the trek to Lisbon. But don’t feel rushed to fit everything in to a tight schedule. Instead, stay true to what Fonseca and Almeida call Portuguese culture: “a slowed-down, slow-traveling, slow-living way of life.”
Where to Eat
Cervejara Ramiro
Cervejara's are traditional Portuguese restaurants serving mainly seafood and beer, and Ramiro is Fonseca and Almeida's top pick. "We can proudly say that Portugal has a coastline that gives our cuisine the best seafood in the world," says Almeida. Their insider tip? Try to go to Ramiro in the mid-afternoon, as the lunch and dinner lines can get lengthy, and the restaurant serves all day long.
Janis
Janis is a quaint, laid-back cafe with ivy hanging from the ceiling, located just across the street from the Timeout Market. Fonseca is a big fan of their coffee, saying "they also have their own blend and the beans are ground especially to make your coffee order, so that's a plus.”
Os Gazeteiros
This hidden gem serves a tasting menu that changes each night, and offers modern takes on traditional Portuguese cuisine. “We love this place because of the good food, the natural wines on their wine list, and the fact that our visits always have a jazz soundtrack. They also adhere to the rule of using only local and organic ingredients and serve them in a really imaginative way."
Where to Drink
“Almost nothing beats an after-work cocktail with friends to shuffle off the day's coil," says Almeida. "This new cocktail bar has beautiful decoration, and it's a great place to ease the evening in as you sample high-quality cocktails with really original ingredients, also locally sourced.”
Park
To find this bar you have to walk through an actual parking garage in the busy Barrio Alto neighborhood, and take the elevator to the highest level. Once at the top, you can sip your drink while enjoying fantastic views of the city and the Tagus River, completely forgetting you are hanging out above hundreds of parked cars.
Where to Shop
A Vida Portuguesa
If you’re looking for a perfect souvenir to bring home from your trip, look no further. This is Fonseca and Almeida's favorite shop in town, selling home goods, soaps, children's toys, notebooks, and the famous Portuguese tinned fish, among many other delights. All products are of Portuguese origin. Fonseca and Almeida recommend "the stationery section in particular—a must-see for vintage package-design lovers."
Embaxiada
Housed in a neo-Moorish palace, Embaxiada is a collection of different concept shops arrayed across old rooms. Because of its design and layout, Fonseca notes "it's absolutely stunning and so romantic."
Caulino
This tiny ceramic shop in the Alfama sells delightful bowls and plates as well as ceramic birds and roses. The open studio is located right inside the store so you can see the artists at work as you peruse.
What to Do
Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation
If you’re craving a little culture or maybe a little rest, head to the Gulbenkian, home of two museums and a serene garden. One museum houses the private collection of Calouste Sarkis Gulbenkian and the other is a collection of modern works. “In spite of our trilogy of businesses, since we have a very young child and a toddler, weekends are spent with family as much as we can. This museum, surrounded with incredible gardens and lawns, is a great place to just hang out with the kids."
LX Factory
Once an old fabric factory, the LX Factory has shops, restaurants, photo studios, and co-working spaces. You could spend a whole day seeing the sights, but Fonseca and Almeida recommend checking out Ler Devagar and Landeau Chocolate first. Ler Devagar, translated in English as "to read slowly," is an independent bookshop, and “nothing beats a slice of Landeau's chocolate cake. Be warned: it is highly addictive. Pretty much like Lisbon, we guess.”
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