Inside Wagner's Pharmacy, a Kentucky Derby must-visit restaurant in Louisville
As we approach a significant date in Louisville history — the 150th Kentucky Derby — it’s only right that this week’s dining column features a local restaurant steeped in tradition: Wagner’s Pharmacy.
Founded in 1922, it is one of the oldest eateries in the city. Today, it is owned and operated by Lee Wagner, the grandson of its founder. More than just a restaurant, this iconic spot located in the shadow of Churchill Downs also features a store with gifts and goods for humans and horses alike.
Here’s everything you should know about popping by Wagner's Pharmacy during Kentucky Derby week and beyond.
Why you need to have breakfast at Wagner's Pharmacy during Derby Week
Head cook and kitchen manager Pamela Pryor — who has been working at Wagner’s since 1999 — says guests flock to the restaurant for breakfast.
The menu features breakfast dishes with equestrian-themed names, like "Trackside Platter," "Exacta Platter," "Trifecta Platter," and more.
“It includes two eggs with a side of biscuits and a side of gravy,” Pryor said of one popular dish, explaining that it also comes with potatoes and ham, bacon, or sausage — or a country fried steak upgrade.
“My favorite (is) the eggs over easy with our bacon and potatoes,” Wagner added. “I love our breakfast — you can’t go wrong.”
Wagner's features a special menu for Kentucky Derby Week
Though the regular breakfast is particularly popular, Pryor says The Hangover — country fried steak on biscuits and gravy topped with two eggs — will be big this week, as it’s part of the Derby menu.
“We shorten the menu a little bit (during Derby) to make sure that we’re able to get people in and out in (the amount of time) that they want,” Wagner explained. “A lot of them are in a hurry, wanting to get to the racetrack (or another event), so we’re mindful of that.”
Other items on the abbreviated list of options include the Derby Sandwich, a hot ham and Swiss; and Louisville’s quintessential culinary creation, the Hot Brown.
“Some (customers) say it’s better than the (original),” Pryor exclaimed.
Don't skip the gift shop at Wagner's Pharmacy
In addition to this week’s Derby menu and the dozens of other plates, platters, burgers, and sandwiches available during the rest of the year, Wagner’s also boasts a store filled with all kinds of goodies. From tea towels, hats, and keychains to mugs, snacks, and horse liniment, there’s a little something for everyone.
“I always tell people you (have to go) to Wagner’s either before the Derby museum or after, and then (go to) Churchill Downs,” Wagner said. “That’s the trifecta.”
He adds that Wagner’s is about more than good Southern food; it is a horseman’s home away from home.
“It’s that ‘Cheers’ atmosphere,” he explained. “You’re going to meet a couple of (new) people by the time you leave.”
Wagner's is giving back during Kentucky Derby Week
Every year, the restaurant hosts a large outdoor party during Derby Week, to raise funds for the Permanently Disabled Jockeys Fund.
“That was something that was near and dear to my dad’s heart,” Wagner said, adding that his father had lots of friends who were jockeys — including several who weren’t necessarily in the limelight. “(They) were the ones that exercise (the horses) in the morning. The general public looks at the ones that … win and make a ton of money.”
He adds that it is these behind-the-scenes jockeys who put their lives on the line every day, for little to no recognition.
“The PDJF,” he added, “is out there for jockeys that get disability. When they have injuries (that won’t) allow them to ride anymore, it’s a way to support them.”
This year, the outside soiree will feature food trucks, alcoholic drink options, and seating for nearly 100 guests — plus high-top tables for additional standing room. Live entertainment from Thursday through Saturday will include FreQuency, One Louder, Bottom’s Up, Small Batch Brass Band, and Lampus.
“Each year, we try to keep raising the bar and hopefully, (Derby) 150 will be able to donate a little bit more than we did last year and the year before,” Wagner said.
What owner Lee Wagner says you should order
Wagner eats at the restaurant daily, often ordering homemade vegetable beef soup. Made using a Wagner family recipe, it contains 95% lean stew beef, diced tomatoes, potatoes, and a mix of five veggies.
Wagner adds that the roast beef special was something his grandfather loved, and Fish Fridays were started by his father.
“Growing up as a catholic in this community,” he explained, “my father brought fish for Fridays.”
As time has passed, Wagner has taken ideas from restaurant guests on what should be offered as specials — particularly on what is now known as Potluck Thursday.
The Reuben, spaghetti and meatballs, and the Philly cheesesteak are all dishes that came about during this process.
“I (also) love our chicken salad,” he said of the sandwich made with all-white shredded chicken blended with minced celery, sweet relish, mayo, and seasoning. “It is really good. Pammy does a great job with that.”
Wagner happily sings the praises of his longtime employee, who made a cameo in the 2010 film “Secretariat,” in a scene filmed in Wagner’s. But as he compliments Pryor’s work and skill, he also gives kudos to the rest of Wagner’s team.
“The thing I love,” he said, “is that our team … really (takes) pride, and they care. It makes … all of us feel good when customers (keep coming) back. That’s what we look forward to every year with Derby.”
Know a restaurant that would make a great feature? Email writer Lennie Omalza at aloha@lennieomalza.com or Lifestyle Editor Kathryn Gregory at kgregory@gannett.com.
Wagner's Pharmacy
WHAT: This is a locally owned diner and gift shop that opened in 1922. Its slogan is "Wagner's is Churchill Downs; Churchill Downs is Wagner's."
WHERE: 3113 S. 4th St.
HOURS: Dine-in, outdoor seating, carryout, and delivery via DoorDash, Grubhub, and Uber Eats; 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday; 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Sunday; closed Monday
CONTACT: wagnerspharmacy.com, 502-375-3800
More: Heading to Kentucky Derby 150? Here's what's on the official Churchill Downs menu
This article originally appeared on Louisville Courier Journal: Wagner's Pharmacy is the best place to eat during Kentucky Derby Week
