Inside chef Danny Bowien’s San Francisco launching pad, Mission Chinese Food

Food & Wine Staff

June 30, 2016 at 1:05 PM

<p><strong>Mission Chinese Food</strong> has grown from pop-up to permanent resident inside the already-established Lung Shan restaurant in San Francisco’s Mission. But through the years, the decor has maintained its impromptu vibe: A paper dragon snaking along the ceiling has stuck around since the early days.</p> <p><em>Mission Chinese Food</em><em>: 2234 Mission St, San Francisco; 415-863-2800; <a rel="nofollow noopener" href="http://missionchinesefood.com/sf" target="_blank" data-ylk="slk:missionchinesefood.com/sf;elm:context_link;itc:0;sec:content-canvas" class="link ">missionchinesefood.com/sf</a></em></p>

<p>When MCF opened, Danny had never even traveled to China. He felt his way through the hallmark flavors and techniques of the cuisine, mastering its high-heat wok cooking along the way.</p>

<p>Danny is an intuitive chef who tends to value deliciousness ahead of authenticity. His Jewish-Szechuan Kung Pao pastrami may be the best example of the way he can seamlessly borrow from many culinary traditions at once to create a distinctive hybridized cuisine.</p>

<p>For the heat-averse, Danny’s signature Chongqing chicken wings must be a terrifying experience. He doubles down on the fire for this dish, tossing the wings in a Szechuan peppercorn and cayenne spice blend, and serving them under a pile of <em>tianjin</em> chiles.</p>

<p>Thrice-cooked bacon—poached, fried and wok-finished—is an MCF staple at both the San Francisco flagship and the New York offshoot. The crispy pork finds its counterpoint in chewy Chinese rice cakes.</p>

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Inside chef Danny Bowien’s San Francisco launching pad, Mission Chinese Food

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