'Injectable Moisturizers' Are the Next Big Game Changer in Aesthetics

Social media has recently given rise to the "high maintenance/low maintenance" beauty-routine phenomenon: Content creators on Instagram and TikTok are sharing the "high maintenance" beauty treatments they do — think Russian gel manicures that remain intact for weeks, brow lamination that eliminates the need for makeup or styling, strategic hair color that grows out without looking questionable — in order to stay "low maintenance" in their day-to-day lives. And this concept is now carrying over into skin care.

It's difficult to imagine a single product with the ability to keep skin hydrated for up to six months before re-application is necessary. But it exists — and may be beauty's next big game changer.

I first heard about Volite at a beauty event, where a glow-y editor raved about the "injectable moisturizer" she'd received in London. Her skin looked almost suspiciously youthful and smooth — prepubescently supple, yes, but not at all puffy, frozen or "done." Beauty clinics overseas are needling skin with ultra-soft hyaluronic acid (HA) to boost hydration from the inside out. The end result is succulent skin that looks plump, radiant and... juicy. As it turns out, that's because it actually is juicy. These injectables infuse skin cells with mega-hydration that can last for up to half a year.

The FDA recently approved Allergan Aesthetics' Skinvive (which is known abroad as Volite) in the U.S., and then there's also Profhilo, another HA-based injectable moisturizer that is not yet available in the U.S., but has been generating buzz in the aesthetics world. An injectable made of non-cross-linked HA, one of the human body's natural humectants, this form of injectable addresses skin quality and moisture levels directly. While neuromodulators like Botox help retrain facial muscles, and various forms of hyaluronic fillers can contour features or replace lost volume, injectable moisturizers like Profhilo and Skinvive work on a more superficial level of skin to smooth and firm its surface appearance.

"I consider this a separate category in our dermatology tool kit," says Dr. Daniel Belkin, a board-certified New York City dermatologist whose patient roster includes the age-defying Martha Stewart. "I'm eagerly waiting to get this into my hands, and my Allergan rep knows this," he adds. Allergan anticipates that Skinvive will be broadly available within the next six months.

Here's how it works: Skinvive is injected shallowly beneath the skin to "microdose a soft hyaluronic acid directly into the dermis as a hydrator and stimulant for collagen production," explains Dr. Ava Shamban, a Los Angeles-based board-certified dermatologist. "Hyaluronic acid binds to water, giving the skin a plump, juicy look."

We're entering a new era of aesthetics, focused entirely on regenerative skin benefits. Until now, HA fillers have featured cross-linked molecules that add bulk strategically, but there's an art to injecting them. If used incorrectly, you run the risk of looking artificial, with exaggerated features.

"The ubiquity of filler and lax regulation means that you can get injected by almost anyone on any corner. There's a lot of bad work out there," says Dr. Belkin. "I think this has created a bit of a backlash, with celebrities now famously dissolving overfilled faces." Safe for all skin tones, Skinvive is unique because it doesn't add volume to a specific point on the face. Rather, it spreads throughout the dermis on its own to create an overall dewy glow. The results are pretty much guaranteed to look natural.

In addition to creating a glow-y finish, injectable moisturizers also impart youthfulness: As skin ages, it naturally thins and its texture changes. Rich creams can plump the epidermis — the very top layer of the skin — to soften fine lines, which is why moisturizing is a crucial part of an anti-aging skin-care routine. But most wrinkles and texture issues arise from the dermis, the thicker second layer of skin that contains the collagen and elastin fibers. Even the fanciest face serum can't reach that layer or stimulate fibroblasts, our collagen-producing cells. Injectable moisturizers can target this area.

Skinvive does have limitations, though. It doesn't relax muscles, so your expression lines will stay furrowed. It also can't replenish volume loss or chisel features to give you a snatched jawline in the way thicker fillers can. Skinvive isn't meant to replace Botox or fillers, though. Rather, it works best in tandem with other treatments.

Case in point: Martha Stewart's coveted glow comes from a potpourri of subtle techniques, says Dr. Belkin. He relies on a combination non- or minimally-invasive laser, ultrasound, radio frequency, filler and injection treatments to give her skin an overall youthful appearance. He also injects a Skinvive-like soft hyaluronic acid for hydration. "She's doing it thoughtfully and conservatively," he has said.

Some practitioners believe that you need more than just HA to get juicy-looking skin. They revitalize skin with a cocktail of ingredients: "You need other components like peptides, growth factors, glutathione and niacinamide, things that are proven to rejuvenate the skin, not just hydrate," says Kristina Kitsos, an aesthetic nurse practitioner in Beverly Hills. "When you use all these ingredients, you are setting yourself up for better skin in the long run. It's kind of like skin nutrition. They make your skin look and act like it did years ago." Kitsos customizes an injectable moisturizer super-cocktail for each patient's needs and age.

Another thing to keep in mind is that Skinvive isn't for the needle-phobic: One treatment requires dozens of precisely-placed injections spaced about one centimeter apart in a gridlike pattern. "It looks like dot candy," says Kitsos. Expect to be poked 40 times for just the cheeks. Each shot delivers less than a drop of liquid and leaves a temporary bump that subsides in a day or two.

Allergan says that Skinvive will be priced competitively with other injectables and will "likely cost less than traditional HA dermal fillers." Prices will vary depending on your practitioner, location and how many syringes are used.

It's also worth noting that there are other existing non-invasive treatments that can yield results similar to those achieved by Skinvive. Sofwave, an in-office ultrasound device, boosts collagen production to firm skin, diminish lines and create a plumper appearance. According to Beverly Hills-based plastic surgeon Dr. Gregory Mueller, it's more efficient at generating collagen than Skinvive, and "the result is thicker and more elastic skin. That's what we all had when we were little," he says. Sofwave works by delivering heat into the dermis, which in turn stimulates your skin's natural repair process and revs production of fresh collagen. There's no downtime, and the treatment takes 30 minutes. The downside? It will cost you roughly $4,500 to treat the face and neck, and it's painful for some.

Light therapy is another needle-free alternative. Kate Somerville Clinic nurse practitioner Monica Jáuregui uses pulsed infrared light from Sciton's Forever Young BBL device to rejuvenate and smooth skin. The light energy stimulates collagen and restores radiance, while targeting sun spots. Like Sofwave, Forever Young BBL is a non-invasive lunchtime treatment, and you only need one session to see results. It costs under $1,000 to treat the full face and neck.

Suffice it to say, there's a lot of innovation going on in the world of aesthetics at the moment, and the days of having to choose between looking sunken and wrinkled or puffy-faced and swollen are on their way out.

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