This Ingredient in Eyelash Growth Serums Might Cause Some Unwelcome Eye Changes
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Fact checked by Nick Blackmer
Key Takeaways
While this side effect is uncommon and reversible, eyelash growth serums containing prostaglandin analogs (PGAs) can cause fat cells around the eyes to shrink.
Related side effects include increased hyperpigmentation, hollow or sunken skin, and an increased appearance of dark circles.
Experts say deciding whether to discontinue the use of PGA-containing eyelash serums will depend on individual risk factors, however, it is recommended to speak with a healthcare provider.
When it comes to enhancing the length, darkness, and fullness of eyelashes, most people gravitate towards things like mascara, false eyelashes, or eyelash extensions. More recently, however, there’s been a growing trend toward over-the-counter (OTC) eyelash growth serums, which are cosmetic products designed to bolster eyelashes within a matter of weeks.
Serums are easy to apply, requiring only a few swipes of a wand per day. Searches for “the best lash serum” have racked up more than 1.5 billion views on TikTok. The global eyelash serum market is projected to reach $1.3 billion by 2031, up from $752 million in 2020.
Although lash serums are on the up and up, they’re not without risk. Here’s what you need to know about eyelash growth serums, the potential health effects of using them, and whether or not you should ditch them altogether, according to dermatologists.
What Is an Eyelash Growth Serum?
Even though there are many different types of eyelash growth serums available on the market, most are intended to promote the growth and thickness of eyelash hairs, Quynh-Giao Sartor, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Westlake Dermatology in Houston, Texas, told Verywell in an email. These serums are generally available in a liquid or gel solution formula and can be applied to the base of the eyelash hairs, similar to how one would apply eyeliner.
Eyelash serums may contain vitamins E and C, biotin, and growth peptides, which function mainly to nourish the hair and can promote healthier-looking lashes, Sartor said.
Potential Side Effects Depend on What’s In Your Serum
Like any cosmetic product, an eyelash serum comes with potential risks, Brendan Camp, MD, double board-certified in dermatology and dermatopathology, told Verywell in an email. While growth serums are generally considered safe when used as directed, some individuals may experience skin sensitivity, eye irritation, or even allergic reactions. With prescription serum Latisse, for example, about 3%–4% of users will experience mild side effects.
“Eyelash growth serums of any type have the potential to cause skin irritation in the form of redness, swelling, itching, and scaling,” he said.
Serums containing an ingredient called prostaglandin analogs (PGAs) come with the rare possibility of a more significant risk. PGAs can cause periorbital volume loss, which Sartor describes as the “melting” of fat around your eyes. This can lead to increased pigmentation and subsequent darkening of the iris (if the product enters your eye) and eyelid skin, as well as a more sunken effect.
What are Prostaglandin Analogs (PGAs)?
PGAs are compounds that were initially manufactured to treat an eye condition called glaucoma. Since a significant portion of glaucoma patients treated with PGAs experienced increased eyelash growth, these compounds were eventually studied, manufactured, and granted FDA approval for their use in stimulating eyelash growth and appearance.
A recent study published in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal found people who used lash lengtheners containing PGAs developed a condition known as prostaglandin-associated periorbitopathy. This condition consists of changes in the eyelids and orbital region, including thinner, wrinkled, and darker skin.
“It’s hard to determine how common side effects of prostaglandin-induced periorbitopathy are, since these observations have only recently been published in case reports,” Sartor said. “No controlled clinical trials exist to assess their frequency and prevalence.”
Sartor said any of these potential side effects depend on what a person’s eye looked like before using serums. Other manifestations of a bad reaction to PGA serums include an increased prominence of blood vessels on the eyelids, drooping of the upper eyelid, and an increased visibility of the lower white outer layer of the eyeball (the sclera).
“It can lead to many individuals to appear more tired with darker under-eye circles,” she said.
Side Effects Are Reversible
Side effects related to prostaglandin-associated periorbitopathy can usually be reversed if you stop using the eyelash serum.
Which Eyelash Serums Contain PGAs?
Eyelash serums that contain PGAs are available over the counter as well as via prescription, Sartor said. Topical ophthalmic prescriptions in this category include Lumigan (bimatoprost), and Xalatan (latanoprost), which are eye drops used to treat glaucoma.
Popular OTC eyelash serums that contain PGAs include:
All of the OTC eyelash serums listed above have either isopropyl cloprostenate or dechloro-dihydroxy-difluoro-ethylcloprostenolamide as the prostaglandin analogs, and this should be listed with the rest of the serum’s ingredients.
Eyelash serums that do not contain PGAs can still have potential health risks. That’s because they may contain preservatives, fragrances, silicone, wax, and oils that can lead to eye irritation or sensitivity.
“Eyelash serums without PGAs may not have risks like hyperpigmentation of fat atrophy, but the use of any skin care product carries the risk of irritant or allergic contact dermatitis,” Camp said.
Should You Stop Using Eyelash Growth Serums?
The decision to use lash lengthening serums—especially ones with PGAs—should be made by the informed consumer who is aware of the potential benefits and risks of use, Camp said. However, he noted certain people may benefit more from the effects of lash lengthening serums, “such as those experiencing altered hair growth as a result of chemotherapy.”
Although lash serums are generally regarded as safe, deciding whether or not you should stop using eyelash growth serums will depend on your individual risk factors, Sartor added. These factors include your natural eye color (lighter irises are more prone to darkening), skin sensitivities or conditions, as well as the specific anatomy of your eye.
“When in doubt, it is best to speak with a dermatologist, plastic surgeon, or ophthalmologist/oculoplastics,” she said.
Other Ways To Grow Your Eyelashes
If you decide you don’t want to use serums, Sartor and Camp suggest various alternative methods to enhance the growth and strength of your eyelashes. These methods include:
Exploring PGA-free eyelash growth serums: There are many eyelash growth serums that do not contain PGAs, including Lash Luxury, The Ordinary Lash Serum, Forever Lash, Velour Lash Serum, and LASHFOOD Serum.
Handle your eyelashes with gentle care: Be gentle with your eyelashes and avoid vigorous rubbing or tugging on your eyes or eyelashes.
Select easily removable eye products: When using eye makeup, look for products that are easy to rinse off, such as non-waterproof mascaras and eyeliners. Try to avoid waterproof products, as these tend to be more challenging to remove and wash off completely.
Use a mild makeup remover: If wearing makeup, opt for a gentle makeup remover to minimize eye irritation and protect your eyelashes.
Oral supplements: Take supplements designed for hair and nail health, such as Viviscal and Nutrafol, which can also contribute to eyelash growth, Sartor said.
Natural remedies: Consider natural methods like using green tea as a compress. The antioxidants in green tea may help protect lash hairs from oxidative stress caused by free oxygen radicals that can negatively affect hair growth, Camp said.
What This Means For You
Eyelash serums are typically considered safe, but serums that contain prostaglandin analogs (PGAs) can cause the fat around your eyes to shrink. This can result in appearance changes in and around the eye. The good news is these changes are usually reversible once you stop using the serum.
Read the original article on Verywell Health.
