The Informant: The Jacket That Breaks Through the Chore Coat Noise
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I’m getting tired of chore coats.
In my mind, you can have too much of a good thing, but there are some timeless exceptions to the rule: money, friends, Pringles. I thought the Chore Coat Renaissance signaled an end to the decision fatigue of early fall and early spring — Do I wear a proper coat? Is just a hoodie fine? — but I’m seeing too much of them everywhere. Whenever stylish contemporary brands in all price ranges (from Kith to Alex Mill to Abercrombie) drop a new line lately, they offer some variation of the same light coat. I’m tired of walking out into the world and feeling like I’m on an art school campus. A.B. Uniform’s Windbreaker Jacket, though, is a subtle, stylish cut above the rest.
I’m not saying abandon your J. Crew outerwear or spend $400 on an alternative, but if you’ve got $400 to spare and are looking for an elevated garment that’s a little different, I love this A.B. coat as a staple piece. I wouldn’t recommend it for those in the market for a thrifted denim or canvas jacket, but it makes a great alternative to the recent Sacai x Carhartt collaboration while also being a whole lot cheaper. (Similarly-priced peers include the snazzy collabs at Todd Snyder and the Lee x Jean-Michel Basquiat one at Urban Outfitters).
And again, it’s nice wearing something well-made from a smaller brand that stands out while still pairing well with nearly everything in both my spring and fall wardrobes. Antonia Belt (the eponymous A.B.) says on the brand’s website that her clothes are inspired by workwear and uniforms, including “the blue outfits of French factory workers, the black corduroy suits of German carpenters, the colorful aprons of her grandmother, or the ubiquity of a pair of jeans.”
It’s inspiration that shows in the small details of the jacket, which is deceptively simple. The cinched hem, deep pockets, and versatile collar all seem a lot more thoughtful than the average oversized shirt passing for a “shacket,” a cursed portmanteau that always promised more than it could deliver.
A.B.’s version sets itself apart, too, with a slightly holographic sheen that gives it a modern feel. You could call it Workwear Futurism, like something a Death Star mechanic would wear.
It’s also legitimately tough, and good for a surprisingly large range of temperatures, even though it’s barely heavier than one of my Oxford shirts. It was good for a recent 39-degree day in New York with a light hoodie, as well as a rare February weekend that was in the mid-50s. I never felt overheated; I never felt cold. Crucial for seasons that are all about light layers, or for the city of San Francisco as an entity. It’s a perfect chore coat to fold up and stick in a small backpack, which is more than I can say for other jackets in this group, where the structure and thickness work against their portability.
If the Workwear Renaissance must live on, let it look as cool as the A.B. Uniform Windbreaker. Or at least have the Bushwick Carhartt Commission learn how to change a tire.
A.B. Uniform Windbreaker Jacket
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