Hybrid Time, X Marks the Spot at Bon Marché and Rihanna’s Baby Bump
- Oops!Something went wrong.Please try again later.
Courtest of Watches and Wonders
Watches and Wonder Geneva is moving forward with a hybrid model for its 2022 edition.
More from WWD
Backstage At Rihanna's Savage x Fenty Lingerie Fashion Show With Normani, Bella Hadid And More
See All The Looks From Rihanna's Savage Fenty Lingerie Fashion Show
This year’s show, which begins in-person and online on March 30, will have 38 exhibiting brands. According to the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, organizer of the show, the hybrid concept has been designed to adapt to the changing circumstances brought on by the pandemic by combining an actual physical exhibition, which respects health measures, with digital solutions that meet market expectations.
Organizers reported that press presentations have been entirely redesigned so that they can be followed either in-person or online, continuing to focus on products.
The week also will be full of new events, live broadcasts and discussion panels to help round out the experience.
The press program will include three new presentation formats to facilitate the dissemination of news, both online and at the show. Throughout the week, the exhibiting companies will hold keynote sessions, announcements and speeches — mostly by brand leaders and ambassadors — that will be broadcast live to the general public on the digital platform and on social media. The 2022 show will see meetings with large groups of journalists replaced by “Touch & Feel” sessions of around 10 people, putting products and discussions at center stage, with digital product presentations enabling journalists who cannot travel to Geneva to keep on top of all the watch and jewelry news remotely.
While watch show Baselworld was meant to return in 2022 with a new concept, it canceled at the end of last year, but Watches and Wonder Geneva has persevered through the global pandemic, emerging as the dominant space for the luxury watch category to unveil products.
Some of the brands exhibiting include Cartier, Tag Heuer, Hublot, A. Lange & Söhne, Chanel, Jaeger-Lecoultre, Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Piaget, among others.
The show concludes on April 5. — THOMAS WALLER
X Marks the Spot
Courtesy of Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche
A brand creating exclusives for your store? That’s so 2021.
Getting brands to collaborate with each other at your invitation is where it’s at, and that’s exactly what Le Bon Marché is going for in “X,” its next storewide display, running from Feb. 12 to April 24.
To make sure this idea is writ large in store, the Paris Left Bank institution has invited iconoclastic French artist Philippe Katerine, giving him a “carte rose” to dress the store’s spaces.
Cue giant sculptures in bubblegum pink, a series of artworks that will be for sale, and copies of his book “Mignonisme,” which explains his philosophy of “assembling two objects that shouldn’t be [put together] and it’s already a story — present, past and yet to come.”
Katerine will also lend his voice to the store’s announcements, and will give two performances on March 1 and 2 as part of the “Frères Philippe” group he forms with composer and guitarist Philippe Eveno.
Dozens of brands have paired off for the “X” exhibition, with Baccarat capturing Pokémon character Pikachu as a crystal figurine; Scholl matching one of their sandals to the bright tones of Erès’ Nautic swimwear range, and secondhand specialist Collector Square calling on young French scarf upcycling label Call It by Your Name to create straps, handle wraps and charms for luxury handbags.
For a dose of fashion’s magic, Stella McCartney is teaming with Disney for “Stella Shared Fantasia,” with a pop-up with clothing, accessories and tchotchkes inspired by the 1940 animated film.
Footwear fans will also have plenty to look at, with Puma pairing off with Ami Paris; Loewe dressing the Cloudventure and Cloudrock models of Swiss performance brand On Running, and three drops of the always-sold-out Nike x Sacai kicks.
Ethical footwear label Veja will double down by teaming with both Italian label Marni and environmental nonprofit Sea Shepherd, while Gabriela Hearst will revisit models from French heritage label Clergerie with her sustainable vision.
On the ground floor, the Tag Heuer and Porsche collaboration will take the shape of a petrol station offering the latest models cocreated by the Swiss watchmaker and the automotive company, a driving simulator, and a refuel of Paris’ favorite fuel — coffee and pastries by Michelin-starred chef Stéphanie Le Quellec.
Before this collaborative smorgasbord, visitors of the department store can take in the “Su” art installation by avant-garde Turkish artist Mehmet Ali Uysal, who puts the spotlight on the impact of climate crisis on water through colossal icebergs hanging around the Andrée Putman-designed escalators; a giant boat inspired by origami or lights that give the effect of rising waters, all displayed until Feb. 20. — LILY TEMPLETON
Baby Bump
Courtesy of British Fashion Council
Rihanna has always been known as one of the most stylish stars of our generation, so it should come as no surprise that fashion searches have spiked since the announcement of her pregnancy.
The singer, who is expecting her first child with boyfriend A$AP Rocky, announced her pregnancy in photos where she’s seen in a bright pink puffer trenchcoat by Chanel and long, blue ripped jeans as she walked hand-in-hand with the rapper on the streets of New York City. She also wore a black jeweled belt by Chanel and had her hair in long curls, keeping her makeup look simple.
The pink Chanel coat is reportedly from the fashion house’s fall 1996 collection.
According to data by Love the Sales, a fashion e-commerce aggregator, searches for several items related to Rihanna’s pregnancy outfit spiked significantly in the last few hours. Searches for “pink padded coats” increased by 200 percent as compared to the prior hour, while queries for “ripped blue jeans” spiked by 175 percent.
Additionally, searches for “pearl necklaces” increased by 80 percent. The elaborate pearl piece worn by Rihanna is one from Vintage by Misty and is reportedly $11,000.
Meanwhile, A$AP wore a denim Carhartt Jacket, a white sweater vest and shiny leather black pants. Searches for the pieces in his outfit also increased demand, such as “men’s sweater vests” increased by 124 percent. Queries for “men’s leather trousers” and “Carhartt jackets” also increased by 78 percent and 75 percent, respectively, in the last few hours.
Rihanna and A$AP Rocky have been reportedly dating since late 2020, with the latter confirming the relationship in May 2021 during his interview with GQ, in which he described her as “the love of [his] life.”
Throughout their relationship, the two cemented themselves as one of the most stylish couples as of late, stepping out in lavish, coordinating looks at everything from the Met Gala to street style. — CONCHITA WIDJOJO
Brooklyn Bound
Todd Snyder is continuing his retail rollout. The men’s wear designer will open his next store in April in Williamsburg, Brooklyn — a 3,000-square-foot location in the historic Mill Building at 85 North Third Street. This will mark Snyder’s sixth permanent location following a 3,500-square-foot store in Rockefeller Center as well as a unit in Greenwich, Conn., which both opened in November.
As a brand founded and based in New York City, Snyder said he has been eyeing the outer borough for some time and wanted to ensure the store has the ability to serve as a one-stop destination for locals and travelers. “As we started to expand in the New York area, Williamsburg was an obvious choice,” he said. “I love finding buildings with history and gravitas, so this location was perfect for us. It’s surrounded by some great neighbors, too, and I can’t wait to see how it all comes together.”
The Brooklyn store will mix signature Todd Snyder utility design details with midcentury-inspired lighting and custom woodwork, alongside the original soaring ceilings, exposed beams and oversize windows of the former factory space. The store will feature an in-house tailor and a vinyl record bar while also offering same-day delivery in New York City, private shopping appointments and the company’s made-to-measure program.
In addition to the designer’s wardrobe essentials such as the selvedge oxfords, jeans and knitwear, the store will also offer suits, suede jackets and other high-end pieces as well as his long-standing collaboration product with Champion and a selection of his favorite brands including Moscot, Foundwell vintage watches, DS & Durga, Rototo, Alden Shoes, Birkenstocks and a large assortment of sneakers.
Snyder, who celebrated his 10th anniversary last year, has been de-emphasizing wholesale in favor of his own direct-to-consumer. He plans to open stores in the Los Angeles, Chicago, Boston, Dallas, Atlanta, Washington, D.C., and Miami markets. He said several additional stores are slated to open this year.
He said sales at his eponymous stores have been strong, including Rock Center, which is closed now for renovation after “an amazing holiday season.” The store will reopen in the spring.
“Our stores have continued to surprise us, especially during the pandemic,” he said. “We’ve chosen locations where we already have a strong customer base, so I’m really excited to finally be able to have physical outposts in these cities. I also look at stores as a moment for discovery — both for our existing customers who can see what products they may not have known about and for new customers who may choose to pop in to check out a brand they’re unfamiliar with. — JEAN E. PALMIERI
Gigi’s New Gig
Lexie Moreland for WWD
Gigi Hadid is adding hosting duties to her lengthy resume.
The model has signed on to cohost the second season of Netflix’s fashion competition show “Next in Fashion” alongside “Queer Eye” star Tan France.
The second season does not have a release date yet, but casting is now open for designers to apply for a chance to participate in the competition.
“Next in Fashion” premiered in January 2020 with designer Alexa Chung cohosting alongside France. The show featured 18 designers who faced weekly design challenges to win a $250,000 prize and a chance to have their collection sold on Net-a-porter.
The first season included guest judges from the fashion industry, such as Instagram’s Eva Chen and designers Prabal Gurung, Tommy Hilfiger, Kerby Jean-Raymond, Christopher Kane, Phillip Lim and Monique Lhuillier.
The show has not revealed what the prize will be or who the guest judges will be for the second season.
Netflix’s “Next in Fashion” was announced around the same time that Amazon Prime Video revealed its own fashion competition show: “Making the Cut,” created by former “Project Runway” stars Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn. “Making the Cut” released its second season over the summer, with designer Andrea Pitter winning the competition. — LAYLA ILCHI
Solo Show
Courtesy of Antedote
Antidote Curates, with the support of Gucci, is holding the first solo exhibition in Paris of trailblazing American photographer Mariette Pathy Allen.
Pathy Allen has for more than four decades been photographing nonbinary and transgender people.
“Through her artistic practice, the photographer — a pioneer in spotlighting these people — has helped raise the awareness among the general public and change the perception of gender diversity,” Antidote Curates said in a statement.
Antidote Curates is the new publication accompanying biannual fashion magazine Antidote, founded and directed by Yann Weber. Out starting in September, each issue of Antidote Curates highlights the work of an artist.
Running through Feb. 10 at 20 Rue des Gravilliers in Paris, the “Mariette Pathy Allen” show includes 36 prints, taken between the end of the ’70s until 2010.
Each of the prints is for sale, in numbered and signed editions, as are various posters. Forty percent of their proceeds will be donated to the Acceptess-T association, which defends the rights of the most vulnerable transgender people in France. It fights transphobia, serophobia and discrimination against sex workers by facilitating access to health services and decent living conditions.
Antidote’s roots in fashion include a unisex vegan clothing line, launched in 2018. Called Antidote Care, it is based on upcycled deadstock and vintage items featuring zero animal materials. — JENNIFER WEIL
Artistic Luxury
Bergdorf Goodman’s 2022 artist exhibitor Kristin Simmons is bringing a colorful installation to the retailer’s Fifth Avenue flagship. Starting Thursday through March 20, the New York-based artist will welcome visitors to her interactive exhibition, “Obsessions and Confessions,” spanning the store’s seventh floor. Comprised of several “rooms,” the whimsical exhibition takes cues from Bergdorf Goodman through original pieces and games like a Swarovski-adorned “candy” machine filled with Botox vials and BG-branded vitamins, and a playable arcade claw machine stocked with lip-shaped pouches.
“Artists are not traditionally ‘supposed’ to be lovers of luxury or focus on conspicuous consumption in order to be taken seriously, but who makes those rules and why can’t we change them? For me, it’s all about superseding societal stereotypes and wanting viewers to expect the unexpected,” Simmons says. “‘Obsessions & Confessions’ juxtaposes cultural symbols of success, status, power and pleasure with underlying societal critiques. It’s a metaphorical sugar rush of brilliant colors and pithy witticisms that examines conspicuous consumption and also pokes fun at my own appetite for luxury.”
Original works on view are available to purchase for $3,000 to $60,000, and for $2 visitors can play the claw game for a chance to win one of Simmons’ works. A portion of proceeds from the exhibition will benefit Free Arts NYC, a nonprofit that provides arts mentorship for underserved youth across New York City. “Art is something everyone should be able to experience no matter who or where you are,” Simmons adds. — KRISTEN TAUER
Best of WWD
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram.
