Heristoria’s Second Chapter, Prada’s New China Partnernship, Ramy Brook Gets Active
OUT OF OFFICE: LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s platform for archival and historical pieces Heristoria showcased its second chapter in Paris until Sunday.
According to Heristoria chief executive officer Gérosine Henriot, this second chapter was inspired by a visit to the Officine Générale Buly outpost in the Marais, located in a building that was once the Rudier foundry where artists like August Rodin and Antoine Bourdelle had their sculptures cast.
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“Softness and calm reign supreme in this timeless place and this instantly evoked a sense of unavailability, symbolized by the expression ‘out of office’ today,” the executive said.
Given that “Out of Office” moniker, the 31-piece selection is a nod to escapism and explores a five-decade range between 1970 and the 2010s.
In this summer-minded selection are a zebra-motif spring 1973 Jean Patou dress from the final collection by Michel Goma, the designer who took over after Karl Lagerfeld as artistic director in the mid-1960s; a spring 1986 sleeveless striped shirt from Kenzo; and a cream double-breasted linen dress from the 1980s that is part of the “Fendi 365” ready-to-wear line.
Several Christian Lacroix-era Patou scarves in colorful designs are also in the selection, as are a brooch from Parisian jeweler Fred and a 1970s Disco Volante timepiece, a design launched in 1974 and nodding to the Space Age, from Swiss watchmaker Zenith.
There were also flagons of cognac from Hennessy and a picnic-ready kit from Veuve Clicquot that includes a limited-edition bag cosigned with yachting specialist Riva.
The Heristoria concept launched in November 2022 with “Preface,” a set of heritage items and experiences such as a visit to the Kenzo atelier or Chateau Yquem vineyard. The first chapter, “Time to Bloom,” was shown last May at The Cadogan hotel in London.
All items are one-of-a-kind and the Heristoria site is replenished as objects are unearthed, but won’t have scheduled “drops.” Not to be confused with resale, each piece is pulled from the maisons’ internal archives, and the platform does not offer peer-to-peer or strictly “secondhand” sales.
After the Paris showcase, the “Out of Office” selection will be available on the Heristoria website from Monday. — LILY TEMPLETON
NEW PARTNERSHIP: Prada has revealed a partnership with the Chinese Women’s National Football Team, in an effort to support talented young athletes and explore the world of sport.
Prada will provide outfits for the 23-player squad and delegates while traveling and at formal events, designed to give the team “a fresh and contemporary off-the-field image,” Prada said in a statement.
The team’s official Prada uniform features a black Prada blazer and matching dress pants, a crisp button-down shirt and sleek Prada loafers.
The partnership kicked off as the team embarked on a trip to Australia, where they will play in the FIFA Women’s World Cup in Australia and New Zealand. The games will commence on July 20.
Nicknamed “Steel Roses,” the Chinese players’ morale is high after winning the Asian Cup last year. China, now ranked 14th in the world, will take on Denmark in its first group-level match on July 22.
Prada’s partnership with the team will continue after the World Cup to include “various important summer fixtures,” such as the Asian Games 2023, which will be held in Hangzhou in September, and the Paris 2024 Olympics.
“The China Women’s Football Team has forged a global reputation and is a source of inspiration for young female athletes, focusing public and institutional attention on a democratic and inclusive sport,” Prada said in the announcement.
The collaboration with the team is Prada’s latest initiative to foster strong links with the world of sport, promote a healthy brand image and diversify away from its reliance on celebrity endorsements, a high-risk endeavor under China’s current climate, despite its high returns.
In May, Prada tapped Chinese basketball player Shuyu Yang as its latest brand ambassador. With more than 3 million followers on Weibo, Yang appeared in a series of photos and a short film wearing pieces from the brand’s latest men’s collection.
Last January, the brand tapped Chinese table tennis player and Olympic champion Ma Long as brand ambassador, then followed up with a Douyin campaign featuring four acclaimed Olympics athletes who represent a wide range of beauty standards.
The campaign was directed by Hung Huang [who is also a columnist for WWD] and featured shotput athlete Gong Lijiao, marathon runner Li Zhixuan, water polo player Xiong Dunhan and Yang Shuyu. — DENNI HU
NEW LINE: Ramy Brook is entering the activewear space with a new collaboration with Wolven.
On Thursday, the two brands will introduce a five-piece capsule including a bra top, skirt, legging and jogger. The Ramy Brooke x Wolven collection features two vibrant prints from Ramy Brook’s summer collection, inspired by Hawaii.
“I couldn’t be more excited about our collaboration with Wolven. As someone who prioritizes fitness in my daily routine, I’m excited to incorporate these pieces into my everyday look and share them with others who share a similar passion for sustainable, stylish activewear,” said Ramy Brook Sharp, founder and creative director of Ramy Brook.
“We understand that many of our customers have active lifestyles, and we’re committed to providing them with comfortable and fashionable clothing that they can wear both during and after their workouts. With this collection, our aim is to create versatile pieces that seamlessly blend style and function, allowing our customers to feel their best no matter where they go. We’re excited to see how they integrate our activewear into their pre-existing Ramy Brook wardrobe,” she added.
Wolven is a community-based sustainable apparel brand focused on creating multifunctional activewear.
Kiran Jade, chief executive officer of Wolven, said, “At Wolven, we believe in working with female-founded brands to amplify each other’s core message and create a more sustainable future for fashion. We’re thrilled to collaborate with Ramy Brook and combine our unique styles to empower women to feel confident, comfortable and conscious in their clothing choices.”
Like all Wolven products, the collection is made from Oeko-Tex Certified Recycled P.E.T, an innovative, versatile vegan fabric created from recycled water bottles. The fabric is moisture-wicking, odor-resistant and soft.
The collection ranges in price from $46 to $98 and will be available at RamyBrook.com and in Ramy Brook stores. — LISA LOCKWOOD
THE DOCTOR IS IN: After kicking off the Haus of Dreamers series in Venice, Italy — its birthplace — Golden Goose landed in Los Angeles on Thursday night in honor of Brian Woo, better known as Dr. Woo.
The sought-after tattoo artist to the stars, born and raised in L.A., was one of five creatives tapped by the Italian brand to unleash creativity for capsules, alongside Fabio Novembre, Quannah Chasinghorse, Suki Waterhouse and Sunmi.
“It’s rooted and inspired by the epicenter of Golden Goose, where it’s created in Venice,” Woo said of his creations. “The spirit and the artisanal and craftsmanship of that city is a big factor in the designs. And at the same time, incorporating what I’m known for, and blending them all together to tell the story. Not of just the place, but how that place inspires me as an artist.”
The result is a collection of reimagined Super-Star sneakers, crewnecks and, exploring homeware, a porcelain plate.
Guests joked about snatching the $440 limited-edition item during the celebratory dinner at Chateau Marmont, placed as a service dish before being taken away.
“Can we keep it?” mused Olly Sholotan, the young actor who plays Carlton Banks in “Bel-Air.”
“What a genius idea,” Italian actress Marta Pozzan said of the decorative piece earlier during a cocktail hour at Maxfield, where the line is sold. It features Woo’s trademark artwork, showcasing grayscale roses and geometric, planetary designs.
“I love it,” she went on. “And he’s so iconic. I’m like, I wish I could get a tattoo tonight,” she laughed. “I don’t think so…”
Pozzan, who modeled in the brand’s 2021 Star campaign, wore a men’s blazer and jeans. “I love the way their men’s fits me.”
She wasn’t the only one hoping to get inked by Woo, a topic of conversation all evening.
“I’ve wanted to for a long time,” chimed in stylist Simona Sacchitella.
They were joined by the likes of music artist Jackson Myles; skateboarder Cory Juneau; model Yovanna Ventura; actor Matt Cook; DJ-photographer Myles Hendrik; actor David Alan Madrick with fiancé, DJ-model-actor Shaun Ross, and artist Paris Brosnan.
“Some of it is a stroke of luck,” Woo said of his career. His clientele includes Miley Cyrus, Drake and Zoë Kravitz. “Another big part is doing and making things that you like, and listening to your instinctual gut — sometimes going against those feelings and sometimes following those feelings. I like to think about what’s next as well. That’s the biggest challenge as an artist. You want to create new language, new designs. And as awesome as it is being known for a certain look, a certain motif and design identity, it’s also the burden, because as a creative, you want to expand and get better. It’s a circle.”
Golden Goose will be back in California, with a project in the works, said its chief executive officer of the Americas Silvia Merati. “It’s coming up in the next couple of years. America is a super strong market for us.”
The business, founded in 2000 by husband-wife duo Alessandro Gallo and Francesca Rinaldo, is overseen by CEO Silvio Campara. In 2020, it was acquired by Permira, after being owned by The Carlyle Group for three years. It’s been a successful time for the company, which saw its revenues climb 30 percent to 500.9 million euros in 2022, compared with 385.6 million euros in 2021.
“We’ve been dreaming together to do something special,” she said of partnering with Maxfield for Woo’s collection. “Haus is a place where they can dream a project and have it come to fruition.” — RYMA CHIKHOUNE
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