Heliot Emil RTW Spring 2023

Danish designer Julius Juul riffed on the four elements for his sexy spring collection, which was full of body-hugging looks embellished with slits and zips, as well as billowing jackets and accessories.

Juul called his brand of fashion “industrial elegance” and continued to take a sculptural approach to fashion-making.

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“We took a lot of time to look at how the different elements are interpreted in both motorsports and other industries — where they do air slits, [use] aerodynamics, all these things,” he explained after the show.

Pockets come in organic shapes, referring to maps’ contour lines. Water takes the form of slick repellent fabrics, sourced from Alpinestars, the maker of professional motorsport performance gear that’s also often fireproof.

Wind was channeled into big, fluffy garments, such as jackets, and accessories, like the crossbody bag. “We worked with these wind turbines that produce air into garments,” said Juul, adding of the collection’s making-of: “It’s an exploration.”

And that translates into a sleek elevation of streetwear.

Launch Gallery: Heliot Emil RTW Spring 2023

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