Han Kjobenhaven RTW Spring 2023
In pre-show sound bites backstage, Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen said he’s continuing with his exploration of darkness.
Whereas in previous seasons the balance between light and shadow was narrated via pieces that nodded to couture and unrealistic creations was a clash with no real winner, here the designer managed to prove his design chops by blending in real-life styles.
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Flowing pleated tunic frocks layered atop each other with squared, padded shoulders and skintight biker jackets with stirrup-shaped cutouts and faux fur coats seemingly soaked in water proved the designer’s sculptural hand possibly more than the experimental creations he seems to be most drawn to.
Among the latter were a disorienting strapless gown with sleeves that started at the elbow suspended via tubular hangers, and chiffon leotards with a built-in egg-shaped helmet and oyster-shaped neckline.
Much of it looked like a dark-tinged design exercise, including the rubber chokers with built-in bras resembling super-heroine equipment or gravity-defying, impossibly high, heelless platforms with a metal band swooping up toward the ceiling that only Lady Gaga would ever dare.
Yet those pleated gowns as well as tailored blazers and leather vests sported by staff and audience members left a mark. The latter should at some point come down the runway, too.
Launch Gallery: Han Kjobenhavn RTW Spring 2023
