Halpern RTW Spring 2022

Lockdowns didn’t compel Michael Halpern to swap his signature sequins and glamorous evening wear for sweats and casualwear.

Instead, the London-based designer chose to tell stories of those most affected by the pandemic and to use his sparkly, over-the-top creations to bring a little joy.

More from WWD

He did it last year by shooting front-line workers in his exuberant gowns — which made for one of the most captivating, emotional films of the season — and he’s doing it again for spring 2022.

Instead of rushing back to the catwalk, Halpern chose to tell the stories of the performing arts communities through a film, highlighting how badly they were hit by the pandemic and how much they persevered while being stuck at home. He worked with some of the Royal Ballet’s top ballerinas, including Fumi Kaneko, Leticia Dias and Sumina Sasaki, who brought the collection alive as they danced their way around an empty Royal Opera House in Halpern.

“I sort of caught the bug of storytelling and this was such an incredible story with these women working hard to keep themselves in shape and learn new choreographies on Zoom,” said the designer, who showed his collection during intimate appointments at London’s Rosewood Hotel. “I could do the clothes without storytelling, of course. But listening to people and sharing a different point of view makes the work so much more layered, more interesting and more relevant. You reach so many more people that wouldn’t be interested in just seeing the clothes and I think it brings awareness to both our industries. That’s the way forward, supporting each other.”

Halpern didn’t want to create anything that felt costume-y or explicitly balletic. Instead he explored the concept of movement through multicolored fringes, striking draped satin dresses or tiered tutus. Elsewhere, he went the opposite direction with larger-than-life ruffled gowns or bubble-shaped feather dresses that constricted.

“I knew that we were taking these clothes on stage, but also that people will be going out again. I want them to know they are wearing fashion and to feel excited again,” said the designer, who has has been evolving his offer to include more easygoing silhouettes and fabrics, but staying “committed to glamour” through and through — a move which is now paying off, as online orders are skyrocketing, current season stock is selling out, and couture orders are increasing. “I want to be able to do things that bring me joy and challenge me. I want us to be able to make a crystal cage that supports itself, because why not?”

Launch Gallery: Halpern RTW Spring 2022

Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram.