How To Grow And Care For Carrots

Here’s how to grow fresh, crispy carrots.

Fact checked by Khara Scheppmann

The snap of a juicy carrot fresh from your own backyard is worth the bit of extra effort required to grow these vegetables successfully. Carrots need full sun and loose, fertile soil to grow. Plant them in early summer or in late fall for a spring crop. "Carrots are one of the more finicky crops to get established," says Wesley Palmer, Southeastern territory sales representative for Johnny's Selected Seeds. "They take from one to three weeks to pop up, they don't germinate as easily as other crops such as radishes or beans, and they have a long growing season."

Another challenge is that carrots have a low germination rate, which is how many of the seeds you plant actually sprout. It's typically around 80% or lower, meaning 80 out of 100 seeds germinate. Because they're so fussy, it's smart to buy new carrot seeds annually to increase your odds of success. The seeds also are tiny, so some companies sell pelleted seed, which is coated in a thin layer of clay, to make uniform spacing when sowing easier, says Palmer. But with careful soil preparation and well-timed planting, you can reap a harvest of orange, yellow, white, or even purple carrots that add loads of color and crunch to your carrot raisin salad. Here's what you need to know to grow carrots.

Meet The Expert

Wesley Palmer is a Southeastern territory sales representative for Johnny's Selected Seeds.

Plant Attributes

Carrot Care

To grow strong, straight carrots, the soil must be loose, deep, well-drained, and moist. Preparing the soil and removing obstacles like rocks and sticks is key. Thinning plants and relentlessly pulling up weeds also go a long way when it comes to growing carrots that are as beautiful as they are tasty. In most of the South, carrots are best planted in late summer or fall for a spring harvest.

Light

Carrots need full sun, that is, six or more hours of direct sunlight per day. They will tolerate partial sun but grow more slowly. You'll likely end up with undersized carrots.

Soil

Carrots grow best in loose, fertile, sandy loam, not red clay, says Palmer. But if you have soil that's like concrete, work on improving its texture by tilling in compost to a depth of 10 inches with a tiller or garden fork and rake. Remove all rocks, heavy clods, sticks, or any other impediments to roots, no matter how small. It's also a good idea to contact your local extension service (find yours here) for soil testing and other regional growing advice.

Water

Keep the soil evenly moist to germinate seeds and support rapid growth. Underwatering can result in tough, woody, bitter carrots. Once they begin to grow, water your carrots frequently and lightly, keeping the soil moderately moist.

Temperature And Humidity

Carrots germinate when soil temperatures are between 50°F and 85°F, so you have two windows for planting: spring and fall. Fall is actually the ideal time in the South because carrots planted in the spring may bolt, or go to seed, as a result of complex factors including the number of daylight hours and day-to-night temperature fluctuations, says Palmer.

In most of the South, you can sow seeds from March to April and from July to September. To beat the summer heat, gardeners in the Lower South often plant in February, while Coastal South gardeners plant from September to March. Sometimes when you plant in the fall, the seedlings pop up, then they don't do much until spring when they kick into high gear again; these carrots, which have overwintered, tend to be the sweetest, says Palmer.

Fertilizer

It's not usually necessary to fertilize carrots because they're not heavy feeders like tomatoes or corn. Amending the soil with compost at the beginning of the season is usually sufficient. However, it's okay to feed a water-soluble nitrogen fertilizer once during the season. But don't overdo it because too much nitrogen creates lots of top growth and not enough root growth, says Palmer.

Types Of Carrots

There are several great carrot options to grow in the South, including these varieties:

• Yaya: Mild and crisp, this type features a compact top.

• Mokum: This slender carrot holds its sweetness even in hot weather.

• Romance: Carrots are sweet with good disease resistance.

• Bolero: This variety is reliable and stores for months, says Palmer.

• Napoli: This carrot overwinters well and becomes sweeter after cold exposure.

You can also experiment with multi-colored carrots or grow miniatures like 'Atlas' or 'Little Finger,' which can grow in shallower soil.

Pruning

Carrots should be thinned out once the seedlings develop leaves. Make sure there is about 3 inches of space around each carrot. Thin them out again if needed once they begin to mature to keep the tops from touching.

How To Grow Carrots From Seed

Although you can grow carrots in containers at least 12 inches deep, it's not recommended. The results will be lackluster. Instead, seed directly into the ground or in raised beds, says Palmer.

1. Prepare the soil by tilling 10-12 inches deep to loosen.

2. Dig a trench that is 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep.

3. Sprinkle the tiny seeds about an inch apart down the trench. Rows can be placed 16 to 24 inches apart.

4. Lightly cover the seeds with soil.

5. Sprinkle with water until moist.

6. Continue to lightly water each day as you wait for the seeds to germinate in one to three weeks.

When To Thin Carrots

It feels a little unkind, but you've got to cut down on competition among the seedlings. Thin seedlings once their first leaves appear, which is when they're roughly an inch tall. "When you get the proper spacing early, they'll grow more vigorously," says Palmer. Use your fingers to pinch and pull up on a few baby plants at a time, creating 2 to 3 inches of space between plants. Yes, it's tedious but necessary. Also, make sure to keep the area weeded.

How To Harvest Carrots

Carrots mature 55 to 80 days after they break through the soil; keep your seed package and jot down the germination date, so you'll have an idea of when they'll be ready. Harvest when the crown of the top of the carrot is slightly visible above the soil, says Palmer. Use a garden fork to loosen and lift each plant. If you're unsure they're ready, pull one up to check the progress. Rinse well, let dry, then store in a plastic perforated bag. Bonus: Don't toss the carrot tops, which be used to make pesto.

Potting And Repotting Carrots

If your garden doesn’t have a suitable space for carrots, smaller types of carrots can be grown in pots. Use a pot that has plenty of drainage holes and that is at least 12 inches deep and 12-24 inches in diameter. Add potting soil specifically designed for container vegetables. Potted carrots require more water than those grown in the ground, so give them deep watering weekly. Carrots do not transplant well and are not usually repotted.

Overwintering

Carrots are biennial plants that easily withstand a Southern winter in most cases. If temperatures drop below 20°F for an extended time, the tops die back to the ground. If you want your carrots to survive into the spring, a row cover should keep the plants warm enough to survive a long cold snap.

Even if the tops die back, the roots will survive. Many gardeners in cold climates swear by throwing a thick layer of straw over their carrots after a hard freeze. You can harvest the carrots all winter long and possibly into spring.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

There are several pests to watch out for when growing carrots. They can be stunted by carrot-aster yellows, a disease spread by aster leafhoppers. The tops will begin to yellow, while roots can become hairy and branch. Dispose of any infected plants. Parsley worms may feed on carrot tops, but home gardeners may want to let them be as they will develop into beautiful swallowtail butterflies. Slugs, on the other hand, should be picked off of plants. The larvae of carrot rust flies can cause unsightly damage to roots in late spring or summer; place sticky traps near the soil if you notice eggs or larvae. Planting in the fall can also avoid this problem. Root-knot nematodes are small worm-like organisms that also damage roots and lead to hairy or branched carrots. The best prevention is crop rotation; don't plant carrots where other root vegetables have recently grown.

A fungal disease called Alternaria blight causes water-soaked brownish spots on leaves that later turn black and yellow and die. Practice crop rotation and look for disease-resistant varieties if you experience this problem. Home gardeners can use a fungicide containing chlorothalonil to try and manage the disease.

Common Problems

Much of what is happening occurs underground, so it's common to have a few surprises when you pull up your carrots. Here are some common issues gardeners face and how to fix them.

Tough, Woody Carrots

Carrots turn woody and develop a bitter flavor if left in the ground too long. Unless they will be overwintering, harvest your carrots as close to the maturity date as possible. If you'll be harvesting after winter, don't wait for the weather to turn hot. Once carrots bolt and produce seed, you won't want to eat them.

Bitter Carrots

Even young carrots can turn bitter from underwatering. Unlike many plants, carrots appreciate frequent, light watering over infrequent, deep watering. Keep an eye on soil moisture and water if you haven't had rain. At the same time, don't overwater, which can cause carrots to rot.

Stunted Or Deformed Roots

Several factors can cause stunted or deformed roots other than the diseases we discussed above. If you don't loosen the soil deep enough, carrots will stop growing once they hit compacted soil. A small rock or clod of clay can also cause the root to fork. For future plantings, prepare 12 inches of soft, sandy, loamy, debris-free soil. Carrots will also be thin and underdeveloped if they aren't thinned enough. Unless you plan to harvest baby carrots, thin them to about 3 inches apart (blockier varieties may require even more space, so check your seed packet). Also, excess nitrogen can cause carrots to develop multiple roots instead of one long taproot. If you suspect fertilizer is the problem, don't use it again or wait until the plants are a few inches tall. With fresh compost, you may need to prepare your garden bed several weeks before sowing seeds so the compost can mature longer.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the difference between carrots and parsnips?

It’s easy to confuse parsnips for carrots because of their size and shape. There are varieties of carrots that are white, making them harder to distinguish from parsnips. These two root vegetables look similar and they are both in the Apiaceae family, but they are very different in taste. Carrots have a sweet flavor, while parsnips have a licorice flavor and a bit more bite.

What companion plants can I grow with carrots?

It’s likely your vegetable garden will contain more than carrots. Companion plants don’t compete and can provide pest control, shelter, and better soil quality. Good choices to grow alongside carrots include radishes, tomatoes, and onions. Avoid planting carrots with potatoes, parsnips, fennel, and celery.

Can I plant carrot tops?

Carrot tops can be replanted, but they won’t grow new carrots. Instead, they will grow new greens, which can be used in cooking. Use them for vegetable stock and salads, or sauté them with other vegetables. To grow, cut off the tops of the carrots, leaving about an inch of carrot and leafy stems, and place the bottom only in shallow water. Once roots emerge, transplant them to a pot filled with soil and water the surface. Trim carrot tops when they are long.

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