GOTS Smoothes Process for Small-Scale Operators

Small-scale operators in the organic textile value chain are about to be given easier access to GOTS certification through the Controlled Supply Chain Scheme Pilot Project (CSCS).

The new review process will offer a group certification scheme designed to reduce the cost of applying for GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certification and ease the administrative barriers. It was launched last year.

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The CSCS framework will create supply chains of between eight and 30 small scale facilities, each with 20 or fewer workers. This would be considered a Certified Entity once it passed a comprehensive risk assessment by their certification body.

The pilot program will be reviewed and evaluated next year. GOTS managing director Rahul Bhajeker said he is optimistic about the future of CSCS systems within GOTS, that it is working as intended to overcome barriers and create more opportunities.

“The controlled supply chain scheme has the potential for substantial impact, empowering small operators in the organic textile supply chain and revolutionizing GOTS certification,” he said. “We look forward to refining and validating the CSCS requirements in hopes of implementing it fully for all markets in the future.”

Sankei Meriyasu, a 97-year-old Japanese textile company that makes T-shirts and sweats using traditional sewing techniques, received the GOTS certification under the new guidelines in a move viewed as testament to the validity of the system. Project coordinator Yuko Nishino called Sankei Meriyasu a pivotal participant in the pioneering GOTS CSCS initiative, showing extraordinary dedication.

“This achievement resonates profoundly in Japan’s textile industry, where cherished traditions, techniques and community connections are of importance,” he said.

Sankei Meriyasu has been certified by Ecocert Japan, a France-based organic certification body that guarantees the quality of organic products that come from nature and have not been subjected to synthetic pesticides or chemicals. In addition to cotton, it certifies agricultural products, environmentally friendly organic products, rice, vegetables and cosmetics.

GOTS is the world’s leading standard for organic textile certification. It is based on the three principles of social responsibility, environmental sustainability and ethical business practices, along the whole of the supply chain. The social guidelines of the criteria are based on recognized international frameworks, including the OECD Due Diligence for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector, International Labor Organization and UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights, a South Asian representative of GOTS has said. In October, it released its Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities in collaboration with the UpRights Foundation, a Hague-based human rights organization.

Textile products certified under GOTS must contain a minimum of 70 percent organic fibers and dyes and auxiliaries must meet strict environmental and toxicological standards. Wastewater treatment plants are mandatory to manage water responsibly and ensure proper environmental stewardship.

Worker welfare is also among the group’s important tenets. There are to be no human rights abuses along the supply chain, there are strict policies against forced and child labor and stringent rules to combat discrimination, harassment and violence. Female workers are singled out for specific protection, but fair compensation is required for all.