Got Chin Acne? Here's What Your Skin Might Be Trying To Tell You

Any time you experience a breakout, you probably fall down a rabbit hole of trying to figure out the cause. There's a multitude of reasons why you might get acne anywhere on your body, but face mapping is like a guide on how to better understand the source. “Face mapping uses the location of acne on the face as a guide to indicate what the cause of acne may be related to,” says Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.

Meet Our Experts: Marisa Garshick, MD, board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Cornell New York Presbyterian Medical Center, Vanessa Coppola, aesthetician and owner of Bare Aesthetic


To be clear, face mapping isn't foolproof because there is very little evidence to back it up, but that doesn't mean it can't be a helpful tool. “Facial mapping offers a fun and useful chart that may provide a guide for further investigation, but it is in no way a definitive guide and should not be used for diagnosis,” says Vanessa Coppola, an aesthetician and owner of Bare Aesthetic. “If you tend to notice a consistent pattern of breakouts in an area of the face, facial mapping may be helpful to look deeper into health or lifestyle habits. However, more research is needed in this area to explore its validity.”

So how exactly does face mapping work? Read on for all the details, along with a full breakdown of the different kinds of acne and what they mean.

What does the location of my breakout mean?

There are several reasons why you may be experiencing breakouts in any given location, but face mapping may help narrow down what can be done to improve your acne. Here's a section-by-section rundown of what it all means.

Forehead & nose

The forehead and the nose are most commonly referred to as the T-Zone. It's a common breakout area that, for many people, is linked to oiliness due to the number of glands in the area. “The forehead and nose, according to traditional Chinese medicine, are linked to the liver and digestive system,” says Coppola. If you come across a fresh breakout in this area, she recommends taking note of how much water and alcohol you've been consuming or if there are any underlying liver conditions since it’s the organ responsible for detoxing your body.

Eyebrows

If you're someone that gets your eyebrows done regularly, odds are you know what it's like to experience a breakout after tidying them up. “This may be related to hair care products, certain types of face make up, or ingrown hairs. Especially in the setting of tweezing or waxing,” says Dr. Garshick.

That isn't to say that there aren't other reasons behind your eyebrow breakouts. “Between the eyebrows are normally related to stress and lack of sleep,” adds Coppola. “A disruption in your sleep habits can cause a rise of cortisol and other stress hormones, which can increase sebum in the area.” It’s also worth noting that your eyebrows are part of your T-Zone, so it wouldn’t be surprising if there was an increase in oil production near that area.

Hairline

If you tend to use a lot of gel or hairspray close to your hairline, there's a chance you'll experience some breakouts, especially if your skin is sensitive. This can also stem from your shampoo or conditioner, says Coppola.

These kinds of acne flare-ups can also derive from sweat during a workout, so to avoid sweat-related acne near the hairline, try showering and washing your hair immediately after hitting the gym.

Like the rest of the forehead area, your hairline may break out due to stress or poor sleep hygiene. In this case, Coppola recommends taking a stress inventory and incorporating meditation exercises into your routine more often.

Chin & jawline

It's fairly common for the chin and jawline to flare up due to hormonal imbalances. “A rise or surge in hormonal imbalances can lead to an increase in inflammation which, in turn, can lead to an increase of breakout in this area,” says Coppola. She adds that this may be the case more so for people with PCOS or menopause. If you're concerned that your hormones are causing excessive acne, contact your medical provider to talk over your options.

Cheeks

It may come as an afterthought, but your face makes contact with several different surfaces that can cause breakouts. When was the last time you washed your makeup brushes? How often do you change your pillowcase? How many times has your phone touched your face today? These are just a few questions that might come to mind when thinking of how much dirt your face is exposed to on a daily basis.

Acne on your cheeks can also be from issues in the stomach, liver, and pancreas or organs related to digestion. “Disruptions to the digestive system or gut microbiome can result in a breakout on your cheeks,” says Coppola. “This may be a clue to investigate your diet, any foods you might be sensitive to, as well as prolonged use of medications that can alter healthy gut bacteria such as antibiotics that alter your gut health.”

What are the different kinds of breakouts, and how can I treat them?

  • Blackheads: Blackheads occur when a hair follicle is clogged with dead skin cells and oil. It gets its color due to the opening at the surface that becomes oxidized. These are best treated with ingredients such as “retinoids, a vitamin A derivative, and salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid,” says Dr. Garshick. She adds that you can also use a physical exfoliant or get an in-office chemical peel.

  • Whiteheads: The difference between a blackhead and a whitehead is that a whitehead does not have a small opening. Therefore, the oil and dead skin does not oxidize, giving it a white appearance. You can use the same kinds of ingredients to treat blackheads to treat whiteheads, says Dr. Garshick. Ideally, you want to do what you can to help unclog the pores.

  • Papules: If you were asked to envision what a pimple looks like, odds are you would envision papules. These are red round bumps that form from clogged pores, inflammation, and bacteria, says Dr. Garshick.“To help fight bacteria and reduce inflammation, those dealing with papules are often advised to use anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial agents such as benzoyl peroxide and sulfur,” she adds. If available, you can also go to your dermatologist for blue light therapy.

  • Pustules: A good visual example of what pustules look like is folliculitis, although it can present as acne. These normally appear as red bumps with pus in the middle, since they’re in a subcategory of inflammatory acne. Pustules that occur in the setting of acne vulgaris can often be treated similarly to papules,” says Dr. Garshick.“In addition to retinoids, it can be helpful to incorporate benzoyl peroxide, topical or oral antibiotics, or isotretinoin depending on the extent and severity.” If you're addicted to picking at your blemishes, she recommends applying a pimple patch.

  • Nodular acne: Acne that forms underneath the skin as firm bumps are defined as nodular acne. Sometimes they're skin-colored, other times they're red if there's any inflammation, and sometimes it's tender. “These tend to be larger than traditional papules and often require systemic treatment with oral medications such as antibiotics, oral contraceptive pills, spironolactone, or isotretinoin,” says Dr. Garshick. “Even though the breakouts may be deeper, topical medications are still important, including retinoids and benzoyl peroxide to prevent the breakouts from forming.” If your nodular acne is causing scarring, she suggests using a retinoid. You can also talk to your dermatologist about receiving cortisone injections to help reduce the inflammation.

  • Cystic acne: Similar to nodular acne, cystic acne is also deeper in the skin but is often softer than nodules because they're filled with keratin or pus. A lot of cystic acne stems from hormones, but there are ways to treat it. Garshick recommends retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics, and birth control.

The final takeaway

Face mapping can definitely be used to help you hypothesize what is causing your acne, but if you're truly unsure of the cause of your acne, it's always best practice to reach out to a dermatologist and schedule a consult to properly identify the kind of acne you have and the best way to treat it.

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