Giorgio Armani RTW Fall 2023
From the pink-and-white marbled runway, with its little cushioned banquette, to the final model who clicked open a Giorgio Armani compact to powder her face, it was clear the designer was thinking about private spaces and peaceful moments behind the doors of the boudoir.
There were so many Armani signatures here, such as sarong-like skirts layered over fluid trousers; short, sleeveless embellished jackets, and sharp-shouldered coats. But instead of the designer’s signature plays on greige, the palette took in earthy neutrals similar to those in the Armani Beauty collection.
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Fabrics were soft and shapes were languid, as in a pale satin pajama suit, styled with a tailored jacket (it’s Armani after all) and a lineup of liquid trousers and dresses, in dark green, melon or copper tones.
They were layered under embellished tops, fitted jackets or coats, such as one floor-length style, pink as a cherry blossom.
Though formal, these trousers nodded to the sports field, with drawstring or elastic waists, tab details around the ankle, cargo-style patch pockets and go-faster stripes.
While Armani may be late to the athleisure party, those styles will be a boon for his red carpet clients, who can eat and drink to their heart’s content without worrying so much about their waistlines. Others will also rejoice when they see his glittering evening gowns worn with loafer-style flats – a radical pairing for any red carpet designer.
Yet Armani would argue this is the whole point of design. “Fashion is made for women, not for newspaper stories. I’ve stood firm on that point for a long time,” said the designer following Sunday afternoon’s show.
An Art Deco mood filtered through the collection in the form of big silky wraps with long fringes, a pink abstract flower on a long black velvet dress and the fringed flapper cap worn by the model who powdered her nose, promoting the brand’s skin care and cosmetics lines.
Why not? It was only a few weeks ago that Rihanna did the same, pausing during her Super Bowl halftime performance to touch up her makeup with a Fenty powder compact, drawing the worlds of fashion, beauty, sports and celebrity ever closer.
Launch Gallery: Giorgio Armani RTW Fall 2023
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