GCDS RTW Fall 2023

Could it be that Giuliano Calza, who has had runway models with three breasts, SpongeBob SquarePants pasties and fringed chaps, is growing up? And that he’d rather spend Saturday night at home on the couch with his cat than at the club?

That’s what it seemed like from the fall show, which gathered Dua Lipa and friends around an animatronic rendering of his cat, Kittho, and some relatively tame clothes.

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“I was thinking of the things I love the most, and I wanted to make formal suits and ties but GCDS, the fun and meow version of myself,” said Calza. “There’s a lot of connection with my house and my cat, a lot of gray, a lot of tiger print, yellow because my cat has yellow eyes and a lot of pink because my cat loves a pink couch (it’s not mine anymore, it’s his), and a lot of feathers, because they’re his favorite toy.”

That translated to a spunkier take on the wardrobing trend we’ve been seeing all over, with camel wool tailoring, plenty of pinstripes and oversized outerwear, white shirting, corsets, black leather maxi-length skirts trimmed in feathers, elongated biker jackets and lots of neckties.

More on the novelty side were tufty electric yellow sweaters, an orange-and-black tiger stripe gown, purses shaped like old rotary telephones and some kinky paw-shaped boots. No streetwear in sight.

As a more commercially leaning collection, it should hang well — and longer — on store racks than the louder, more theme-y GCDS outings, and maybe cultivate a different kind of customer for the brand — even if Kittho himself never made an appearance.

Launch Gallery: GCDS RTW Fall 2023

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