Gaudí in Barcelona: Our Guide

Tell me: What’s this place all about?
A family home that’s also a castle—one designed by Gaudí, no less—doesn’t read like your typical realtor ad. Yet that’s exactly what Torre Bellesguard ("beautiful view") is. The site, with telescopic views over Barcelona, was originally home to Martin of Aragon, the last king of the Catalan dynasty of the House of Barcelona, who died in 1410. Fast forward to 1900, and Gaudí was commissioned to build a castle in its spot. A working hospital until 1974, in 2013 the Guilera family (residents since 1944) opened it to the public to help protect it from disrepair and the quicksand of Barcelona’s urban expansion. It remains one of the lesser-known Gaudí treats: unique in its straight lines (very un-Gaudí), and an interesting wooden attic that’s stripped bare of his usual mosaic color burst.

Wow. What’s it like being there?
Promptinguriosity that this is still a family home.

Pretty interesting! Is there a guide involved?
An audio guide explains the exterior and interior. Note: you have to be escorted inside, and the last slot is at 2:30 p.m.

Who comes here?
Torre Bellesguard's blessing (in terms of crowds) and curse is that it’s remote, high up in the wealthy Sarrià-Sant Gervasi district. Only attempt to go on foot from the city center if you really like a walk (it’s about an hour). Or get a bus at least part of the way: The blue-route Bus Turístic stops at Tibidabo (then it’s around a 17-minute walk), or start at Plaça Catalunya and take bus 22, V15 or V13 to Plaça Kennedy, then bus 196.

Did it meet expectations?
There’s something charming about seeing Gaudí’s work in such an intimate setting (you can hear signs of domestic life, even smell their clean laundry). On a clear day, the 360-degree scene from the roof—once you’ve scaled the short but extremely narrow walkway up—is impressive.

Got it. So, then, what, or who, do you think it’s best for?
Recommended if you’ve seen the Gaudí big hitters and are prepared to travel off-grid to get more. It’s not a Sagrada Familia showstopper—it's Sagrada Familia's more introverted cousin.