Garden Guy column: Best practices for mowing, watering grass for healthy lawns

Most of us with cool season grasses have cut or had our lawns cut at least a couple of times this spring. So now is a good time to review good lawn maintenance procedures, especially considering the ongoing drought.

Turf experts tell us that, if you need to fertilize, you should wait until after at least two mowings. This ensures that the grass is actively growing and fertilizer can be used by the grass plants.

We are also told that, regardless of the type of grass, no more than 1/3 of the grass blade should be removed when mowing. My tall fescue lawn is growing so well now that I will soon need to mow about every five days. As the weather gets warmer, we should raise the height of the lawnmower blade. The taller the grass, the denser it becomes and the more it shades the soil resulting in less evaporation as well as helping keep weed seeds from germinating.

Hatton
Hatton

According to turf experts at Texas A&M, the ideal range of mowing heights for tall fescue is 2 ½-4 inches. For bluegrass, the range is 2 to 3 ½ inches. Common Bermudagrass should be mowed in a range of 1-2 inches and Buffalograss is 2 ½ to 4 inches. Bermuda and buffalo grasses height recommendations have changed recently and the higher end of the mowing range is better for all.

Mowers in good working condition with sharp blades make clean cuts. Dull mower blades tear the grass rather than cutting it causing stress and making it more susceptible to disease and insect damage.

Proper watering and fertilizing along with proper mowing encourages deeper root growth making it less susceptible to drought. Follow directions when fertilizing. More is not better. In fact, less is likely adequate, especially if you return nutrients to the soil by leaving grass clippings as you mow.

Watering by schedule can result in wasting water. Watering deeply (providing moisture to about 6 - 8” deep) and infrequently (only when that water needs to be replenished) is the best practice for stewarding water as well as encouraging healthy grass. Use a soil probe or other similar device to tell you when watering is needed. The probe will not penetrate dry soil thus you can see how far it penetrates to know where the moisture stops and when you need to water. Simply pouring water on heat and wind stressed grass is not the best answer for the grass, the aquifer, or the bank account.

Because I do not catch grass clippings, I don’t fertilize every year. I have an island area with exposure to the western sun and southwestern winds with three large cedar elms that use much of the water applied to the lawn. Extra water and fertilizer are occasionally needed here.

Proper maintenance of turfgrass will improve the quality and health of whatever kind of grass you have. Dense, healthy turf is the best defense against weeds, diseases, and droughts.

This article originally appeared on Amarillo Globe-News: Garden Guy column: Lawn maintenance, mowing guidelines during drought