The French Soup That Transported Anthony Bourdain Back To His Childhood

It was during a childhood trip to France that legendary chef and writer Anthony Bourdain first discovered that food was more than a thing people ate when they got hungry. A single raw oyster fished straight out of the ocean changed his life forever, but this pivotal moment was far from the only memorable impression that France left on Bourdain.

In one episode of "Parts Unknown," Bourdain lauded the rich, spicy Vietnamese soup bún bò Huế as "the greatest soup in the world." But, when it came to sentimentality, a different soup reigned supreme in Bourdain's heart over his stomach: French soupe de poisson. As he once told Food & Wine, "This more than anything is the flavor of my childhood vacations in France."

As much as New York City, the chef's career and preferences were colored by his connection to France. Bourdain was born of French descent, spoke the language growing up, spent multiple summers in France, and eventually became the executive chef of NYC's Brasserie Les Halles, an esteemed French fine dining bistro. He was an outspoken fan of traditional French classics like tartiflette and poulet basquaise, and he raved about Le Dôme, a seafood restaurant in Montparnasse. In his first show, "A Cook's Tour," Bourdain and his brother traversed France trying the foods that they had cut their teeth on, in an episode called "Childhood Flavors." It only makes sense that a French seafood stew would top his list.

Read more: 15 Different Ways To Cook Fish

Getting It On With Soupe De Poisson

If you've never tried it before, soupe de poisson is a Provençal seafood soup from the South of France. Each steaming bowlful is garnished with garlicky rouille-smeared toast. The soup itself is made from a complex combination of saffron, orange, fennel, and Pernod, an anise liqueur with a strong black licorice flavor. In this murky, intensely flavored broth floats the star of the show: fish heads. Not to be confused with bouillabaisse, another French seafood stew, soupe de poisson is made with small, whole, gutted fish with heads intact — Bourdain recommended porgy and whiting. Alternatively, an assortment of fish bones and heads works too.

In true Bourdain fashion, making this dish is a terrific exercise in branching out from the foods you might be familiar or comfortable with. What we mean is, when it comes to soupe de poisson, it's all about the fish heads. Fish heads are loaded with collagen, making for a richer, more viscous broth. In a fitting tribute to the champion of eating local, this recipe is also a great excuse to visit your neighborhood fishmonger. If fish heads just aren't your style, use a fish with a decent amount of natural gelatin in it to ensure the soup retains its signature richness. Rockfish from the Pacific Northwest is a good stand-in. In fact, per the lore, soupe de poisson might have started as a thrifty way to enjoy less desirable, less expensive fish.

Read the original article on Tasting Table.