Freak Rip Currents Trap Pro Surfers in Hawaii (Video)
Surf season on Oahu’s fabled North Shore is winding down.
It’s the winter months, typically, when the waves get big, the pro surfing circus comes to town, the hungry surfing hopefuls try to make a name for themselves, and looky-loos from around the world descend on the sand to see surfing’s Seven Mile Miracle.
But there’s always potential for a few late (or early) season swells to sneak through the traditional window. Like recently, with (probably) the last hurrah of the season.
At the end of March, a sizeable swell turned on Pipeline – likely for the last time until next fall/winter – before its long summer slumber. But things got a little interesting with the conditions, as seen in Nathan Florence’s vlog above.
“What we got on the menu is a long period northwest swell,” Nate narrates while watching the waves. “It’s super strange. Right now, it’s 3 feet at 20 seconds. So, giant period.”
And with that giant period, the waves can get a little peculiar, dangerous, too.
Related: Sketchy Riptide Sucks Unsuspecting Swimmer Out to Sea in Hawaii (Video)
“Whenever this happens in Hawaii,” Nate continues, “it causes the swell to rise, like, doubled up. It’s overtaking the swell ahead of it. There’s long lulls. It’ll look calm and flat. A 45-minute lull will trick you, and get you out there. Then a 10-foot mutated double-up will roll in full steam, rip current goes zero to 10, backwash, so dangerous. So many people have been caught, over the years, by that trick. You think it’s not big, then a mega set comes.”
Of course, Nate and his brother Ivan still had a go during the incoming, building swell. And there were good moments, along with bad moments. Like when Nate slammed his face on the reef, resulting in nine stitches.
Like a goodbye kiss, a souvenir from the season.
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