Frank & Laurie's brings brunch and lunch to this Providence neighborhood. Here's what to try
Frank & Laurie's opened three weeks ago at 110 Doyle Ave. in Providence and is strumming along with a small but lovely menu of breakfast and bistro dishes. They are complemented by cocktails, wine and beer, locally roasted coffee and even a thick, malted vanilla shake.
The brunch and lunch restaurant comes from the husband and wife team of chef Eric Brown and Sarah Watts. They ran Thick Neck as a residency in The Dean hotel over the past year, serving dinner and a popular Sunday brunch.
They've reimagined and renovated the former Rebelle Bagel space into a full-service restaurant named for Brown's grandparents. There are tables for two and four, long shared tables and seats at the counter bar. They can seat 40 and may yet add outside dining.
On the menu
The menu has some permanent structure. A signature quiche is tall and light and all egg. Pancakes are fluffy and delicious. Deviled eggs are topped with smoked trout roe.
Breakfast pastries may change from last week's whipped ricotta and candied ginger donut. Griddled pound cake and an egg sandwich are on the menu as is a poached egg dish. You can share hash browns with smoked oyster aioli.
In fact, you can share anything to allow a taste of the lunch specials. Highlights include a Pimenton Braised Quarter Chicken. Get a side of housemade focaccia to sop up the sauce. A seasonal Spaghetti dish features pasta dressed in ramp and anchovy butter.
Don't miss the bistro dish Jambon Beurre, called a Ham & Butter Sandwich here. It's served on crusty French bread from Iggy's and has shaved ham and a spread made with butter and triple cream French cheese. It can be shared three ways.
What to drink
The coffee is made for Frank & Laurie's at Providence's Enjoy Coffee Roasters. It'll get you started.
But you don't want to miss the well-balanced cocktails made for brunch like the Iced Coffee Cocktail. It's easy to drink and blended beautifully with aged rum and Amaro dell'Etna. There are Bloody Marys, Negronis and a Negroni Spritz.
You can also enjoy a true thick, malted vanilla milkshake. It can be boozed up if the mood strikes.
The wine list is paired with the bistro dishes. Just ask your server for the recommendation. Moniker Brewery beer is a local beer choice.
The hours
Watts and Brown, who live in the neighborhood, opened the midday spot they craved but couldn't find since moving to Rhode Island. Meals are leisurely here, not for the rushed.
As part of the large local hospitality industry, they wanted to create a spot their colleagues could come after a late night of work, or before heading to run dinner service.
It's not meant to be a quick breakfast and rush off to work concept.
What about the gratuity?
A 20% gratuity is added to each check. It tips not just the excellent servers but the kitchen staff as well. It's an idea whose time has come. Staffing issues since the pandemic have revealed how hard it is to keep cooks. Their pay has traditionally been lower than servers as they are not supplemented by tips. Frank & Laurie's owners are handling this in a transparent way.
The meet-cute story
A Wakefield, Massachusetts, native, Brown went to Johnson & Wales University and worked at Gracie's before moving to Chicago. There he worked at a Michelin-starred restaurant, Elske, before opening his own pop-up, Pinky Ring, during the pandemic.
On the side, he was selling vintage clothes and furniture. Watts came to one of the sales on his lawn. She bought cowboy boots as Brown asked her out.
They came to Rhode Island to visit three times before relocating.
Watts still has a side job as a copywriter in addition to running the restaurant with her husband.
Details: 110 Doyle Ave., Providence, (401) 414-7650, frankandlauries.com. Open Wednesday to Sunday 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
This article originally appeared on The Providence Journal: Frank & Laurie's and chef Brown open for brunch, lunch in Providence
