France’s Loire Valley Makes Stellar White Wines. Here Are 7 Bottles to Drink Right Now.
Named for the river that runs through it, which incidentally is France’s longest river, the Loire Valley is home to much more than medieval chateaus and grand royal estates. Its fertile land that runs 174 miles eastward from the Atlantic Ocean is known for world class examples of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc in addition to rosé and red wines. The Val de Loire offers diverse terrain, soil types and climates within three large sub-regions and many appellations whose names give rise to the wines produced there, such as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, the two best known for Sauvignon Blanc. Sixty percent of the vineyards in the region are sustainably or organically farmed, with many domains implementing biodynamic practices as well.
Chenin Blanc is made in a variety of styles including dry, sweet, and sparkling. The most well-known appellations for dry Chenin Blanc are Savenièrres, which turns out full bodied, ageable versions with strong minerality and apple and pear flavors, and Vouvray, whose still, dry Chenins have high acidity and tropical fruit flavors. Anjou, considered the birthplace of Chenin Blanc, is producing versions in a style that seems to fall somewhere between that of its two neighbors.
Although it had long been thought that Sauvignon Blanc originated in Bordeaux and migrated to the Loire, DNA analysis and historical documentation show that the reverse is true. In addition to Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, which takes its name from the town of Pouilly-sur-Loire and the greyish color that the grapes take on near harvest (fume is French for smoke), other appellations include Quincy, Reuilly, Touraine, and Menetou-Salon. Although both Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé have bold minerality, strong acidity and flavors of citrus and stone fruit, it is said that Sancerre wines are best drunk when young, while Pouilly-Fumé will age gracefully.
Any of these wines will go well with seafood dishes, roast pork or chicken, or salads with goat cheese. They are perfect for warm-weather drinking, but versions which see some oak are also nice with heavier fall dishes. Here are seven whites from the Loire that are perfect to drink now.
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