The sandy enclave of millionaires that's ideal for a summer staycation
As you pick your way past pine woods, keeping eyes peeled and eyes pricked for an elusive red rodent, the brine of the Irish Sea will pull you forward. Ahead lie rolling sand dunes, a fine sweep of beach and, on a clear day, views out to Snowdonia and Blackpool Tower.
On the other side of the scrubby banks, you’ll invariably spot dogs rushing in and out of the waves and walkers wrapped up snug against the wind. Come summer (when, let's hope, domestic holidays could be back on the menu), picnics here become a more appealing prospect.
If you happen to be on the beach at low tide, you might catch glimpses of deer and human footprints that date back to 6,000BC, as well as remnants of shipwrecks and Britain's first lifeboat station. Built in the 1770s, parts of the station's slipway and the red sandstone blocks of its foundations peek out from the ground.
This portion of coast also contains 20 per cent of all England’s sand dunes. Among these, wildlife lovers can search for a handful of rare species. The foremost of is most evident in spring, thanks to its rasping mating call. On warmer evenings, male natterjack toads (the animals can be identified by the yellow stripe down their backs; they also have smaller bodies and shorter legs than the common toad), gather around the breeding pools and sing out to the females. You can hear them up to a mile away.
A lucky few might also spot a sand lizard basking in the morning sun or a dragon-like great crested newt bathing in dune pools and (outside of the breeding season) hiding beneath logs in the surrounding woods.
The dunes shield this forest in which more of Formby’s most precious residents reside: red squirrels. This British native has lived in the UK for around 10,000 years, but has been usurped by its grey, American counterpart. Formby is one of the few areas of England where they remain and researchers carefully track their movements. Before embarking on a squirrel-spotting mission (nationaltrust.org.uk), break for a bacon roll or ice cream at one of the food vans parked up in the National Trust area.
Alternatively, keen cyclists might begin and end a day trip to Formby at Southport’s Eco Centre (visitsouthport.com). Here, you can rent bikes on The Esplanade, then cycle a 7.5-mile squirrel trail. Travelling along the old Cheshire Lines Railway, you’ll pass by, and through, several nature reserves before reaching Formby Golf Club. Founded in 1884, its history signals the town’s commitment to the sport: in 1939, after British soldiers had dug trenches at the club to repel a potential invasion by Nazi Germany, locals continued to tee off.
A mere seven-minute drive from the club is Formby Hall. When open, the four-star hotel offers a spa with an array of treatments and as well as plenty of golfing options. The building dates back to 1523 – although it is thought the Formby family had occupied the site since the 12th century – and lords of the manor lived here right up until the 1970s. Its best-known recent guests, however, were the Liverpool football team.
The squad celebrated their Premier League win at the hall last summer. It was convenient spot for manager Jürgen Klopp, who’s among the town’s millionaire residents. To indulge in a little property envy, take a walk along Victoria road. Klopp moved into one of its palatial homes – a mansion that was owned by the club’s former manager, Brendan Rodgers – in 2015. Players including Jordan Henderson and Andrew Robertson (among others) have also chosen to live here.
There are plenty of pubs within walking distance of the beach, where (once open) you might find one of the town’s footballing heroes: try The Freshfield , which has featured in the Good Beer Guide.
Another feature particular to Formby is its asparagus crop. The 2.8-mile trail should be included on a trip to the town. It’s well-drained sandy soil is ideal for cultivating this prized vegetable, which has weathered the tastes of these isles as far back as the Romans. The town’s asparagus became a major export when a railway from Southport to Liverpool, with stops between, was completed in 1848. Soon, it was shipped from Liverpool to around the world. First-class passengers who sailed on the Titanic are said to have been served Formby asparagus. By the 1920s and 30s, there were around 200 acres of asparagus fields here (this has since dwindled to around five).
If you decide to eke out your northern coastal stay, there’s plenty to explore just beyond Formby. Head north to Southport for a slice of Victorian seaside charm, including the road that inspired the Champs-Élysées. Or drive nine miles south to Crosby Beach to see the 100 cast-iron figures of Anthony Gormley’s Another Place.
The National Trust suggests (when government advice allows) visiting Formby Beach mid-week or earlier in the morning to avoid the summer crowds.
