Forget the Village, why you should visit the real Bicester

Guess what’s the second-most visited UK attraction among Chinese tourists.

The British Museum? Wrong. Stonehenge? Think again. The theatrical delights of the Edinburgh Festival? Not even close.

It’s Bicester Village, in fact, trumped only by Buckingham Palace. Each year, millions visit the Village, on the outskirts of Bicester, a smallish town near Oxford recently earmarked for extra housing as part of the Oxbridge “brain belt”, a line of market towns and garden cities between the old university rivals. 

How Bicester ranks as a tourist attraction

Equidistant from London and Birmingham, and a short drive from Oxford and Milton Keynes, Bicester is ideally located for a spot of development. The old centre is surrounded by modern houses; the increases are nothing new. As a planned garden city, Bicester retains an impressive amount of green space. 

But the first, unavoidable stop for any daytripper is the Village – a small, purpose-built wonderland of high-end outlet stores. It’s a weird place, but evidently the tourists love it, coming in their droves to purchase last season’s gear at (still hefty) discount prices; it’s essentially a massive, open-air TK Maxx. A Gucci here, a Barbour there, that sort of thing. 

Bicester Village isn’t ugly; it’s rather well designed, not unpleasant if you avoid the crowds (get there early), and beats an identikit shopping centre. It’s just a tad Las Vegas-y and artificial; a bit soulless. The architecture is very (new) New England, all wood-panelled, pastel-coloured houses with dark grey roofs. Inoffensive but inauthentic. 

Thousands descend daily for a shopping bonanza; few wander into the town proper. “Bicester Village has been very successful at catering to the international shopper, and it employs thousands,” a local tells me. “But there’s nowhere to stay in Bicester, and people don’t venture out.”

In numbers | Bicester Village

So what of the Bicester the Chinese tourists don’t see? A five-minute saunter from the materialistic mayhem you’ll hit Church Street, a cute thoroughfare of tiny cottages and a smattering of thatched roofs. One side houses the wonderful Lisseters. An unassuming door leads to a world of antiques and furniture made with recycled or reclaimed wood. Bed frames, wardrobes, chairs – they’ve got it all. At the other end of Church Street is the imposing, 950-year-old St Edburg’s Church.

Onwards, past Market Square, is the town’s main drag, the amiably named and pedestrianised Sheep Street, where shepherds presumedly drove their livestock to the historic market centre. 

On my Friday visit the market is in full swing. Flowers, clothes, old books, veg, sweets (some rather excellent baklava!). You’ll find it all on the small but lively strip. Tantalising smells of Greek souvlaki and Chinese dumplings compete for custom. Permanent stores, with tiny doors and low ceilings, are a blend of independent butchers and bakers, charity shops and a fair few bookies. 

Not content as a commuter haven, Bicester’s also in Motorsport Valley. A mile or so from the centre is the fascinating Bicester Heritage; entering is like stepping back in time. The old RAF barracks is now a shrine to classic British cars where engineers, mechanics and dealers mend and auction Rileys, Morrises and Austins. Periodically, open days cater to thousands of motoring enthusiasts. A sort of chilled-out Goodwood. 

For the more adventurous, a 10-minute drive through rolling countryside takes you to Kirtlington, a stunning and quintessential English village with a shop and two pubs. The Oxford Arms is a beautiful 19th-century inn and an award-winning gastropub. With excellent local ales, a daily changing menu, friendly staff and locals and a roaring fire, it’s worth the schlep from Bicester – many come from much further afield to sample the food. 

So Bicester is a town with multiple personalities. It’s seen many rounds of development, giving it a hodgepodge of styles, from the very old to the very new. If you’re there for the Village, try branching out a little, you’ll find many a hidden gem. 

Daytripper | More from our series on UK days out

Four good reasons to visit Bicester

1. The restaurant

The wonderfully named Cabbages and Condoms was founded in Thailand to help raise awareness for sexual health and family planning. The Bicester branch makes some of the best food in town. 

2. The café

Combating the chain invasion, Stansfield & Hoole on Market Square is a family-friendly, stone-walled hobbit hole with leather sofas and good coffee. 

3. The pub

You’re never far from one in Bicester, and Jacobs Plough is a good bet in town. If you have time to venture further afield, you won’t regret a fine meal and a drink from the famous wine list at the Oxford Arms.

4. The festival

Bicester Heritage, Britain’s only hub for historic motoring, hosts a few open days per year, the next on April 22. Bring a classic car, and you can add it to the display by parking it on site.