Forget Aspen. Let's All Go Skiing in Courchevel.
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Over the course of his illustrious career, photographer Slim Aarons traveled to glamorous ski destinations where he documented high society on the slopes. One of his more iconic images, taken in Courchevel in April 1987, shows three chefs based in the French Alpine town: Jean Jacob of Le Bateau Ivre (now closed), Michel Rochedy of Le Chabichou, and Albert Parveaux of Pralong 2000 (now called Hôtel du Pralong).
In the photograph, titled "Culinary Heights," three men smile as they stand behind a decadent spread of food on the mountaintop:
In the same era Aarons was photographing the après-ski lifestyle, Town & Country sent writers Jeanette and James Egan to explore the "Smoothest Skiing in France" in the magazine's November 1966 issue. "Every skier, or almost every skier, has a recurring dream. In this dream he floats down endless fields of powder in graceful linked turns; the snow is perfect, the sun high, and he can do no wrong," the Egans write. The dream, they conclude, has to take place in the French Alps.
The duo offers a survey of the mountains in the region, and in writing about Courchevel, they note, "An observer once called Courchevel 'the supermarket of skiing,' and it's true that here is everything for the skier, neatly packaged and convenient as a frozen dinner, if more flavorful." They explain how at one hotel, the guest list "netted one queen, three princesses, two princes, two Kennedys, and naturally, Bridget Bardot."
That Courchevel—filled with old-world glamour, royals, luxury, and incredible mountainside meals—still exists. And as Americans look ahead to ski vacations for the 2024—2025 season (or want to squeeze in one final weekend of spring skiing this year), I offer my humble opinion, as a writer who has been skiing her entire life: You should absolutely add Courchevel to your list.
What to know about Courchevel
Courchevel, located in the French Alps, is part of the vast Les Trois Vallées (the Three Valleys) ski region. It actually consists of four different ski areas, each named for their altitude, but the most exclusive is the highest up the mountain: Courchevel 1850, a favorite of celebrities and royals from around the world. Notably, Prince Willian and Kate Middleton have brought their three children on holiday there. (I heard from a reliable source that the Waleses are seen in Courchevel "pretty much every year." Likely not this year, though.)
It is unlike any ski resort in America. Courchevel 1850's village and restaurants remind me most of Aspen and Vail, but the vast terrain of the skiing is more akin to the resorts of Palisades Tahoe, California and Big Sky, Montana. Throw in the exclusivity of the private Yellowstone Club, and you've got a sense of what Courchevel is like.
How to get there
Traveling to Courchevel from the U.S. may seem intimidating, but with a little planning, it's actually pretty straightforward. Namely, take an overnight flight to Geneva, sleep the entire plane ride, and then drive two and a half hours to Courchevel in the morning.
Instead of renting a car, consider booking a transfer with Alps En Route, who will meet you at arrivals and whisk you to the mountains. The drive goes by the beautiful Lake Annecy; our driver, Jamie, was from the UK, but had spent years in the Alps, gave us insight into the region, like origin of St. Bernard dogs as search and rescue dogs in the area, or which roads the famed Tour de France takes place on.
Where to stay
Upon arriving in Courchevel 1850, my husband and I checked into Six Senses Residences Courchevel, which serves as the perfect base for a ski trip. It's not a classic hotel, but rather a collection of apartment-style suites, perfect for families or groups of friends, with multiple bedrooms, bathrooms, and common areas in each accommodation.
"Guests here tend to be discerning travelers seeking a combination of exceptional service, wellness experiences, and access to world-class skiing," André Ferreira, the Residences Manager at Six Senses Courchevel, tells T&C. "The vibe is upscale yet laid-back, with an emphasis on holistic well-being and environmental sustainability. We are a family and friends oriented residences which after a day of ski on the slopes everyone can get together in a warm and cosy residence."
There are some key advantages to staying in residences over hotel rooms on any ski trip: Not only do they offer additional space, but also, all the residences feature fully equipped kitchens and living areas. And there's nothing better than getting back from a long day on the slopes and relaxing in your sweatpants on the couch.
But ultimately, the best part of staying at the Six Senses is that it is just a quick, 5-minute walk to the base of Courchevel 1850, where three different gondolas await to take skiers to different parts of mountain. If you don't feel like shlepping your skis to Europe, it's easy to rent skis through SkiSet, attached to the residences, and then they'll have your boots and skis waiting for you at the base of the mountain.
Where to ski
I grew up skiing in the Berkshires (in Western Massachusetts), in southern Vermont, and in Colorado (the mountains of Beaver Creek, Snowmass, and Vail were family favorites). I also worked as a ski instructor in college, at my school's small mountain in the Upper Valley of New Hampshire. Nothing compares with skiing in the Alps. Unlike in the U.S., there aren't exactly marked trails—it's more wide-open. There are groomed runs ("on-piste") and plenty of powder ("off-piste"), and skiing for every ability level.
Plus, because Courchevel is part of the Three Valleys ski area (which is all on one surprisingly affordable pass), you can easily ski over to neighboring resorts, like Méribel and Val Thorens, from Courchevel. Americans will be astounded at the prices: For six days of skiing in the Three Valleys, it's around $325. (Compare that to just one day at Aspen Snowmass: $244.)
Where to shop
Every designer you can think of has a boutique in the main town center, and on the slopes, you'll see more luxury skiwear on one gondola ride than you'll see in an entire day at a U.S. resort. Chloé ski goggles! Prada ski suits! Gucci jackets! There is even a Moncler store on the mountain. Literally: You can ski up to it.
Where to eat
Lunch is an elaborate affair in Courchevel—and reservations are practically required. Our best mid-day meals were at La Soucoupe (if the weather is nice, sit outside for the incredible views, and make sure to get the pain perdu) and Le Chalet de Pierres (next to aforementioned Moncler store on the mountain).
If you're staying at Six Senses, book a dinner at Sumosan, a contemporary Japanese restaurant located in the hotel, and be sure to try the yellowtail with truffle yuzu vinaigrette. Have a sweet tooth? Indulge it at Cedric Grolet's desserts at Les Airelles Courchevel; the famed patissier creates desserts that are works of art in the shape of fruits. We had three, with the overarching flavors of mango, grapefruit, and pistachio and raspberry. But the menu changes throughout the season, so you'll be sure to be wow'd by whatever you get.
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