First Look: 25 Milan Fashion Week Shoe Presentations, Collabs and Launches

Katie Abel

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Live from Milan Fashion Week, here is your guide to 25 spring ’20 shoe presentations, collaborations and new launches.

Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi’s aim for spring ’20 was to dream up styles that were “anything but plain.” The collection focuses on animal prints, part of the label’s DNA but in an unexpected way. “I wanted to push it into new arenas to make it feel fresh and modern,” Choi said. For instance, on a pump, she combined leopard and zebra — and added a pop of neon orange on the heel. Other animal looks are adorned with oversize crystal embellishments, and snake patterns make a statement on bold platform sandals. Flat lattice sandals are also a highlight. Accessories are in step with the animal theme, and key styles are reworked with big spots or stripes.

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Giuseppe Zanotti is all about flower power for spring. The decorative embellishment — lilies to roses, maxi to mini — is a central theme in the collection, which highlights the designer’s affinity for elegance and femininity. “I don’t want to forget my past. I am a sneaker designer, but I’m also about elegance,” he said. “I love the flower for daytime and evening.” Another standout piece is a mule crafted from transparent vinyl, finished with a heel with translucent crystals.

Gianvito Rossi got into the groove with a music-inspired collection and presentation that captured the spirit of the ’70s. He paired a classic red and white guitar with red and white patent pumps. Party-ready platforms in bright hues and look-at-me leopard spun around on vinyls and decked out drum sets. Rossi also took an artsy turn, revealing a Jeff Koons-inspired heel on a sandal.

Rainbow platform, high-heel roller skates stole the show at Aquazzura, where creative director Edgardo Osorio rolled out a fun collection that mirrored his hits through the years. Other whimsical styles include sandals adorned with butterflies and strawberries. “I’ve been going through my archives, and it gave me a chance to see everything we’ve been doing, look at the things I love and go back to our roots,” the designer said. “It’s sexy, it’s fun. There are shoes you can go dancing in and shoes for every day that have a little touch of [glamour].”

Sergio Rossi always has a big story for the season. For spring, the company hopes to tap into logo mania with a 3-D “super heel,” crafted from its graphic statement logo using S and R initials or “Rossi” in all caps. The heel is used on a range of the brand’s Sergio styles — from a pointed-toe pump to square-toe sandals and mules. Velcro-strapped sneakers are updated with it as well.

After kicking off its fall boot campaign with Kendall Jenner last week, Stuart Weitzman is going tropical with a colorful Caribbean-inspired collection that was presented against a backdrop of palm trees. Edmundo Castillo, the brand’s head of product design, offers up classic thong sandals with macramé and wooden beading plus espadrilles with the label’s new star embellishment and a Mary Jane adorned with crystals.

Geox is making a bigger play for the hot sneaker market with a new women’s version of its best-selling Aerantis sneaker. The refined style plays up the brand’s extensive technology and features a breathing system on the upper and outsole. The color combinations, which mix white and bright hues, are also incorporated on knitwear-and-leather sneakers throughout the collection. Among Geox’s more dressed-up looks are espadrilles with suede leather detailing and slingback sandals on low heels. Animal and ethnic prints also appear on a number of silhouettes. Meanwhile, Geox’s new WWF collaboration capsule, which supports the World Wildlife Fund (among the world’s largest conservation organizations), is in stores now.

Hogan was among the first brands to launch a luxury sneaker in the ’80s, long before high-end kicks were ubiquitous. As it continues to evolve the category, the Tod’s-owned label took cues from the great outdoors for spring. “Renewed interest around nature is a recurring theme in luxury,” said Sergio Azzolari, Hogan’s general manager. “So it’s natural that outdoor references are becoming more present. That is what we embrace in this collection.”

Casadei made a strong statement about ethical fashion with its nine-style capsule collection that uses fabrics woven by women in Burkina Faso, Africa, an area known for its artisanal weaving and one of the biggest producers of African cotton. The line is a collaboration with the Ethical Fashion Initiative, which promotes the work of communities from developing countries.

At Rene Caovilla, spring ‘20’s floral motif is anything but ordinary. The brand combines floral embroideries with its signature crystals on spring designs, including an all-over crystal boot. On the runway, bejeweled PVC sandals were another highlight, and Caovilla introduced kitten-heel thong sandals to take things down just a notch.

The Giusti Sisters behind AGL delivered a geometric collection for spring, focusing on sharp lines as seen in their pointed mules with ankle straps and mini stiletto heels. Two-tone cut-out booties and a new block heel shaped like a quarter moon also fit with the graphic theme.

Furla revealed a fresh arch-inspired logo to emphasize its 90-plus-year heritage. The brand’s Furla 1927 bags, presented in a rainbow of colors, were the focus. Shoes are also a priority for the company and it is focusing on quality and working with new factories.

Bally has a new kitten heel that pays homage to mid-century modern design, as seen on the graphic Callie shoe, which has asymmetrical lines and a chiseled toe. The Alexa boot gets an update in suede on contrast leather. An archive B-chain pattern adorns Bally classics, including the Janelle and Heimberg sneaker.

Rodo has a new graphic “Paris bag” lock accessory that decorates its bags and shoes. Footwear styles range from flat to chunky heels, and are fashioned in colors such as salmon, tan and mid blue. The bags take on more contemporary shapes this season and take cues from the rich archive.

Santoni’s women’s collection took cues from its best men’s styles, including loafers and lace-ups. The three-buckle embellishment is key on both ankle boots and slippers, which come in five colors. Santoni also got in on the see-now, buy-now action, offering two fall styles in orange and light blue at its stores and online during Milan Fashion Week.

Fratelli Rossetti is touting dual-gender styles at a time when crossover looks are more dominant than ever. The “Brera bow” loafer, inspired by the style’s signature tassels, makes its debut this season. The bow element is featured on sandals, pumps and ballet flats.

British heritage brand Church’s takes inspiration from summer hues and the landscapes of Cornwall, England, for spring. Sea pink flowers and soft sand tones are paired with suede sandals and loafers. Python prints dress up new lace-ups.

Pollini took a walk down memory lane by revisiting some of its classics. In addition to its archive-inspired collection of shoes and bags, it updated equestrian boots, unveiled monk-strap loafers and emphasized the signature “cremino” sole. The brand’s horsebit is used across a range of shoes and bags.

Nicolò Beretta has had quite the week. The designer announced that his Giannico label was acquired by L’Autre Chose and officially opened the latter’s store on Saturday evening. For his Giannico collection, he took over historic Milanese jewelry store Pennisi’s to introduce his spring collection.

Collaboration Alert:

Some major U.S. brands made a big splash during the week with attention-grabbing collaborations. Among them, Tommy Hilfiger and Lewis Hamilton presented their third collaboration collection at a packed nighttime event on Monday.

Sustainable leader Rothy’s made a notable move outside the U.S. through its wool collab with rising Italian designer Marta Ferri. Skechers teamed up with Chinese fashion label Ricostru on an apparel collection inspired by both the retro style of 1992, when Skechers was born, and the futuristic design of 2049 that defines the Ricostru minimalist aesthetic. And Alexa Chung and Superga toasted their latest collaboration line.

Launch Party:

Perhaps the most notable spring ’20 debut in Milan? Sara Battaglia’s whimsical new collection, unveiled at her presentation today. The designer — who first made a name for herself with bags and later launched ready-to-wear — debuted 13 shoe styles. Average price points are about 500 euros ($550).

Mia Becar, a Los-Angeles based direct-to-consumer brand that launched this summer, made a grand debut in a space overlooking Milan’s famed Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Creative director Betsy Gonzalez was inspired by Hollywood’s Golden Age and her Mexican heritage. The collection features d’Orsay pumps, mules, stiletto booties and more.

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