'I felt that fire within me': Chef Bryan Romero's culinary journey has taken him from fast food to fine dining

Apr. 16—Editor's note: Cocina Connection is a once-a-month feature that takes a behind-the-scenes look at a New Mexico-based chef, who, in turn, shares some recipes.

Waking around 4 a.m. each day, Bryan Romero is not one to slouch on getting things done.

On most days, he hits the streets of Downtown Albuquerque for a quick, five-mile run hours before the sun rises.

Then the 34-year-old jumps in his vehicle and drives more than an hour north to the Santa Claran Hotel Casino, where he's the executive chef.

While each day is filled with creating dishes, Romero's culinary journey began in the South Valley as a child.

"To be honest, I sort of had to lean into it," he says of learning to cook. "As one of the older siblings in a big family, my parents were often away working. My older brother and I would take turns."

It was his father who would leave printed recipes for the two eldest boys to cook.

"Once a week, I would cook for the family, and to be honest, I wasn't a big fan of it," Romero says. "It was something I had to do. I hadn't really scratched it as an expression of myself."

As a teenager, Romero found himself working at Long John Silver's, which had an A&W Restaurant attached to it in the South Valley.

He went to Rio Grande High School, but was kicked out as he got in trouble with graffiti.

There he learned how quick the turnover of fast food was. It's also where his attention to detail came into play as far as basic sanitation and quick fire skills.

After some time in fast food, he began working at Maloney's with Marc Quiñones.

"I met chef Marc and he hired me," he recalls. "At that point, I was kind of more interested more of the food service side. I began reading and watching more things that helped me become more invested in cooking."

Maloney's lasted about two years.

From there, Romero followed Quiñones to Sandia Resort and Casino.

Romero became a buffet cook for about three years.

It was at Sandia where he took part of the program that gave him tuition reimbursement.

He enrolled at Central New Mexico Community College and began in the culinary program in 2016.

It took him just under three years to finish the program.

At that time, he was able to transfer to the fine dining restaurant Bien Shur at Sandia Resort & Casino.

"I was under chef Martin Torrez," he says. "I had approached chef Martin before I transferred and explained to him I was in the buffet area and didn't have any fine dining skills. He was the one who helped get me transferred and I began working on plating and developing my fine dining skills."

Romero was like a sponge and absorbed everything he could from Torrez.

"Martin took me and gave me guidance," he says. "He pushed me in directions that I wasn't familiar with. He would bring in books for me to read."

Four months after the transfer, Romero earned the place to run specials.

"Martin put his faith in me and let me develop myself," he says. "I felt like I had the most to prove. I was able to let my imagination run wild. It was at this moment I realized, 'This is it.' I'm doing what I love."

Romero left Bien Shur to become sous chef at Chama River Brewing Company.

After a few months, the chef left and he was promoted.

"This was the first time I was in charge of real ordering and scheduling," he says. "I was now involved in the operation side."

Chama River shut down and Romero was transferred to Kelly's in Nob Hill.

This is where he got the opportunity to run beer pairing dinners.

"I got to express and showcase the things that were on my mind," he says. "This was a way I could brand my style and vision. I started to develop and play with more seasonal things. It was really fun to play off the beer."

After Kelly's, Romero found himself at the Ranchers Club of New Mexico at the Crowne Plaza.

This is where he made the decision to go into overdrive and double down on himself.

"I would get in at 5 a.m. and I wouldn't leave until the last rush at 8:30 p.m.," he says. "I didn't want to treat it as a job. It's my career now and I started to hone the skills that I was taught. I feel very fortunate to have learned from some amazing chefs. It was my time to put myself at the front and show off my skills."

At the Ranchers Club of New Mexico, Romero felt like an artist — it reminded him of growing up.

"My dad played guitar and did poetry," he says. "I remember at a young age thinking how cool it was. He encouraged me to do what makes me happy. This was the first time I felt that fire within me. I originally was studying art at CNM. I've always had that artistic eye."

Now at Santa Claran, Romero has his hands full with daily projects.

Because the casino is open 24 hours on the weekend and 22 hours on the weekdays, it's an ever evolving rotation.

The casino is filled with employees and he makes sure the cafeteria is prepared for the day.

With breakfast running early, he's always on the go.

"It really surprised me how early people get to the casino," he says. "It's refreshing and nice to get there. We have a built-in clientele, and it's about keeping the quality of the food and service at its best."

In his current position, Romero is grateful to be able to curate dishes that not only reflect him, but also catered to the clientele of the restaurants.

"That's the challenge and the limit," he says. "You want to give them something new, yet give them something they are familiar with. I try to balance it."

Eggs Chimayo

1 jalapeño cheddar sausage (I use Johnsonville brand)

Red chile hollandaise

2 poached eggs

2 sopaipillas

Red Chile Hollandaise

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons hot water

2 teaspoons fresh squeezed lemon

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 cup unsalted butter

1/4 tsp fine sea salt

3 ounces Chimayo red chile

Separate the eggs and add yolks to a small nonreactive saucepan. Save whites for another recipe.

Add water, lemon juice and Dijon and whisk together until well combined.

Slice the butter into small pieces and toss them into the saucepan.

Place saucepan over medium-low heat, whisking the sauce constantly and vigorously until the melted butter turns the mixture frothy.

Continue whisking until the sauce just starts to thicken and coats the back of a spoon.

Remove the sauce from heat and fold in red chile, I use local chile from Chimayo.

Hold warm, so sauce doesn't break. If it becomes too cold, it will break, if it becomes too hot it'll break

Add salt to taste.

Poached Eggs

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon distilled vinegar

2 cups water

Bring water to a rolling boil, reduce heat until water drops to a low simmer, around 185 degrees. Add vinegar.

Using a whisk, spin a vortex in the middle of your pot, this will create the shape of your poached egg. Add eggs to the pot, one at a time. Watch the color of the egg whites, looking for solid white colors, no translucent appearance.

Sopaipillas

4 cups Blue Bird flour

4 tablespoons shortening

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups warm water

2 quarts oil for frying

Stir together flour, shortening, baking powder and salt in a large bowl.

Stir in water and mix until dough is smooth.

Cover and let stand for 20 minutes.

Heat oil in a deep fryer to 375 degrees.

Roll dough out on a floured board until 1/8 - to 1/4 -inch thick. Cut into 3-inch squares. Fry dough squares in the preheated oil until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towel.

Jalapeño Sausage

Slice horizontally, and place in a pan or on grill. Cook thoroughly.

Assemble

Now, we are ready to assemble. In the center of a plate, stack your two hot sopaipillas on each other.

Lay your sliced and grilled jalapeño sausage over the sopaipilla stack.

Using your slotted spoon, remove the poached eggs and place them on top of the beautiful stack.

Gently pour your red chile hollandaise over the top.

I garnish with micro cilantro I buy locally from Just the Best Produce.

(Recipe by Bryan Romero)