Federal Government Funds NC-Based Textile Innovation Engine

The federal government has given textile innovation and sustainability a spotlight.

The National Science Foundation (NSF) has revealed the recepients of its Regional Innovation Engines program, which aims to bring benefits associated with scientific and technological innovation to various communities nationally, with a focus on small and rural areas.

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One of 10 the awardees of the program has a direct stake in apparel. The North Carolina Textile Innovation and Sustainability Engine (NCTISE) will be tasked with advancing technology in the textiles industry.

The engine will be based in the cities of Raleigh and Gaston, N.C., but will have a reach that extends throughout other parts of the state, as well as parts of South Carolina, Tennessee and Virginia.

Sara Chester, co-founder of the economic development organization The Industrial Commons (TIC), submitted a concept note outlining her vision for the engine to the NSF in June 2022.

That concept, available in NSF’s records, reads, “The engine proposes to address the societal challenge of climate change by expanding production of regenerative fibers, develop biomaterials, and circular yarns and fabrics, drive innovation in new product development by designing with end use in mind, conduct rapid prototyping and R&D, testing, informing policy and supporting entrepreneurs and startups; change manufacturing processes by developing new recycling technologies, and implementing techniques to measure and reduce toxic effluents and energy consumption and ensure a future pipeline of skilled workers.”

A spokesperson for the NSF said the newly minted engine’s interest in addressing sustainability while simultaneously tackling career opportunities in the rural South earned it recognition from the agency.

“The North Carolina Textile Innovation and Sustainability Engine re-imagines a more established industry with an innovative approach to making input materials and processes sustainable and circular. The textiles project has an intentional focus on creating workforce development opportunities within rural communities while simultaneously taking advantage of place-based assets,” the spokesperson told Sourcing Journal.

Per a release from TIC, the process leading up to the award took almost 18 months.

While the award officially begins in March, NCTISE has already set a number of 10-year goals. On its site, it states that it will increase U.S. circular products by 5 percent; convert 200 million pounds of the region’s waste into circular goods; create 5,000 new jobs in the textile circular economy; assist 150 national brands in reaching total circularity and more.

To work toward those goals, the engine will partner with a number of other entities, like North Carolina State University, Wilson College of Textiles, Catawba Valley Community College’s Manufacturing Solutions Center, Western Piedmont Community College and Gaston Community College’s Textile Technology Center.

The NSF spokesperson said each engine develops its goals in consultation with NSF Engines program directors. The new engine will also be required to provide reports to the NSF on a quarterly basis.

NCTISE will receive up to $15 million in funding during its first two years, per a release from the NSF. It has the potential to receive an additional $145 million over 10 years.

The NSF’s spokesperson told Sourcing Journal the engine’s consistent funding depends, in part, on its progress toward the milestones it set in conjunction with the agency.

During the first two years, the NSF program team will travel to the awardee communities annually for a site visit to better understand what progress looks like on the ground. NSF will evaluate the cohesiveness of the engine’s team and ecosystem, with a particular focus on its governance model and execution by leadership,” the spokesperson said. “All of these factors, plus inputs from subject matter experts inside and outside the agency, will guide the NSF program team in making decisions on the next installment of funding for the current class of awardees.”

The CHIPS and Science Act, signed into law by President Biden in 2022, authorized the funding for the NSF’s program. In addition to NSF funding, each awardee will look for other public and private investment partners. Per a release from the Biden administration, non-federal partners have already contributed over $365 million in matched contributions to the program.

Molly Hemstreet, co-executive director of TIC, said the award will allow the engine to create real change in the region it encompasses.

“On behalf of The Industrial Commons, we are amazed, honored and excited to receive an inaugural NSF Engines award,” said Hemstreet. “Although this industry has seen its fair share of challenges, we see so much potential for it to drive economic change in our region. This award will allow us to build on our legacy industries and depth of innovation to create opportunity for workers and our communities.”