What Is The Feast Of The Seven Fishes, According To 4 Southern Chefs

Everything you need to know about The Feast Of The Seven Fishes, the Christmas Eve tradition celebrated by Italian-Americans.

For many Italian-American families, the Feast of the Seven Fishes is as synonymous with Christmas as presents under the tree.

A Christmas Eve tradition brought by immigrants from Italy in the late 1800s, it has evolved from an effort to abstain from meat into one of the most anticipated celebrations of the year. From its humble Roman Catholic beginnings to the vibrant culinary extravaganza it has become, the Feast of the Seven Fishes is a pillar of the Italian-American experience. And though it was once unique to home kitchens in the Northeast, a new generation is taking this beloved tradition nationwide.

Whether you’ve been celebrating the Feast of the Seven Fishes since childhood or have never heard of it, we talked to Italian-American chefs from four Southern cities to help us explain this annual Christmas spectacle of seafood.

What is the Feast of the Seven Fishes?

The Feast of the Seven Fishes is an Italian-American Christmas Eve celebration that is exactly what it sounds like: a feast that involves (at least) seven seafood dishes. Some modern feasts involve more than seven seafood dishes, but they should never have less than seven.

What is the History of the Feast of the Seven Fishes?

This tradition can be traced back to Southern Italy, where it is known simply as la vigilia (the eve). In keeping with the Roman Catholic practice of not eating meat on the eve of feast days, seafood was eaten the night before Christmas. The significance of serving seven dishes is disputed, though seven is considered a divine number in Catholicism and it is repeated throughout the Bible.

Despite its roots in Southern Italy, the Feast of the Seven Fishes is an American celebration. It can be traced back to the turn of the 19th century, when Italian immigration to the U.S. was at its peak. Homesick transplants saw the tradition of eating seafood on la vigilia as a unique tether to Italy and began celebrating it as such. As the years went on and families grew and spread, la vigilia morphed into the extravagant Feast of the Seven Fishes we know and love today.

Fiore Tedesco, chef and owner of L'Oca d'Oro in Austin, Texas, describes the Feast of the Seven Fishes as “an extrapolation” of the original Italian event.

“What I think has been very common in Italian-American households is that they’ve made a brighter, sort of more boisterous celebration of this holiday,” he says. “Maybe less humble than the way it is celebrated in Italy. Sort of as a call back to the homeland.”

When is the Feast of the Seven Fishes?

The Feast of the Seven Fishes takes place on Christmas Eve. It is a marathon of sorts, beginning around noon and often extending into the early hours of the next morning.

Tedesco recalls getting to his grandmother’s house at 2pm on Christmas Eve and staying there until 2am when he was growing up.

Pat Pascarella, chef and co-founder of The Porchetta Group in Atlanta, said the celebrations he hosts sometimes last until 4am. “The entire family gets together, we literally eat from 11am until whenever you pass out,” he explains.

Traditional Feast of the Seven Fishes Menu

A Traditional Feast of the Seven Fishes is served family style. Dishes vary widely, but certain ingredients nearly always make an appearance on menus.  According to the chefs we spoke to, smelt, baccàla (salt cod), and clams are the pillars of a traditional feast, though preparations are subject to ancestry and taste.

“You gotta have smelt. It has to be on there,” Pascarella says. “Baccàla has to be a mainstay. You have to do linguini or pasta with clams. And then everything else is kind of up in the air.”

• Smelt are small fish that are usually served lightly battered and fried.

• Baccalà is the Italian name for cod that has been cured, or preserved, with salt. A dish that’s popular at Southern Italian celebrations, it can best be described as flaky, mild, and not at all fishy.

• Clams are a familiar shellfish found in fresh and saltwater environments all over the world. They are traditionally combined with spaghetti or linguine to create the main course of the feast. (Click here for Tedesco's recipe for Spaghetti and Clams.)

Other staples include eel, squid (calamari), muscles, shrimp, anchovy, crab, lobster, and whole fish.

“[Eel] is probably the most important to me,” Tedesco says. “It was my grandfather’s favorite and I learned from my grandparents how to catch river eel and how to cook it, how to kill it, and how to eat it. They’re terrible and kind of disgusting fish.You really have to work for it in several ways. But the reward is so unctuous, delicious, and rewarding.”

David Benstock, executive chef and owner of IL Ritorno in St Petersburg, Florida, says he’s a “sucker” for a whole branzino. "I love the skin to meat ratio,” he explains. “I usually keep it pretty light and let the fresh fish speak for itself.”

For Nick Lama, chef and owner of Avo in New Orleans, his favorite dishes are the ones where he gets to “mix the flavors of New Orleans into the Italian tradition,” like linguine and clams or chargrilled oysters.

What is the Significance of the Feast of the Seven Fishes

Generations later, the Feast of the Seven Fishes remains a cherished tradition that ties Italian-Americans to their history. It might look different than it did when it was first celebrated, but the heart of the feast remains. The chefs we spoke to agree that traditions like these are an important part of being human.

The Feast of the Seven Fishes “perfectly embodies the way Italians love to celebrate,” Benstock says, “It’s always over food!”

Tedesco says making the same dishes his late grandparents used to make, albeit with modifications, brings him closer to them.

According to Lama, traditions like Feast of the Seven Fishes help “ground you” and serve as a reminder of your roots—something Southerners can appreciate.  “The South of the United States is built on family tradition and values, this is what makes us so hospitable and warm. We have an amazing melting pot of cultures here in the South and these traditions are an opportunity to teach and experience cultures from all over,” he explains. “We understand each other better knowing why we do things and how their families celebrated in the past. You can see the pride and joy someone gets when sharing their culture with others.”

Where to Celebrate the Feast of the Seven Fishes

Avo in New Orleans, Louisiana: November 29 - December 23.

L'Oca d'Oro in Austin, Texas: December 23rd and 24th. 

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