Fashion Flats and Kitten Heels Are the Trending Shoes for Spring ’24, According to Top Retailers
The demand for fashion flats and kitten heels will reach new heights in spring ’24, according to buyers who have just finished a marathon fashion month in Paris.
In the latest dramatic trend shift across the footwear market, ballet flats, Mary Janes and kitten heels —and even flip-flops as seen at Chanel — have replaced sharp stilettos and party shoes as the essential must buys for both retailers and consumers.
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“Last year was all about celebrating — hence the huge surge in demand for heels. This year, in contrast, is all about life returning to normal and working from the office rather than from home. This has caused a 180-degree change in what women are buying and investing in versus last year,” said Helen David, chief merchant of luxury at Kurt Geiger, which operates shoe floors at Selfridges, Harrods and Liberty. “Flats of all iterations have made a major comeback.”
Which brands and styles will rule shoe floors in the coming months? Top retailers sound off.
Jodi Kahn, VP of luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus
Trend Talk: “If the importance of flats has not already been solidified within the fashion community, the last four weeks have proved that the fashion flat is here to stay. We saw everything from loafers, kitten heels, ballerinas, and Mary Janes. Flats certainly add an element of comfort to any look, from a cocktail dress to denim. Designers are proving that flats are anything but boring. “
Favorite Collections:
“Prada, with the pops of color in fuchsia and bright orange in various fabrications.”
“Valentino, where nearly every model was wearing flat sandals, slides, or slingback kitten heels.”
“Gucci, with the newly introduced flatform.”
“The super chic ballet flat with gold ankle detail seen at Fendi.”
Brands on the Rise:
“A couple of new brands to Neiman Marcus that we are excited about are Le Monde Beryl and Carel. Le Monde Beryl offers primarily flats and Mary Janes in various fabrications including leather, suede, mesh, and velvet. Their range proves that flats are chic, sophisticated and can be paired back to different customer aesthetics. Carel is a recent launch as well, offering a wide range of Mary Janes from block heels to flats, as well as slingbacks in multiple different colors.”
Helen David, Chief Merchant of Luxury, Kurt Geiger
Trend Talk: “The ballerina is firmly back on the map, as is the Mary Jane. Heels (and particularly platforms) are decidedly out. Overall, it is clear that functionality continues to be key into next season, and women are no longer content to center their day wardrobes around sneakers. Chic understated elegance is back in, with logos completely out. We are seeing brands traditionally known for heels also adding a roster of new flat options to their line ups. We saw multiple iterations of the ‘luxury Birkenstock’, Venetian slippers, and Fishermans. The shift towards comfort took center stage for The Row’s inspiration of spa dressing, with the show even featuring a spa slipper that can be worn outside as well as the return of the 90’s leather flip-flop. Never to miss a beat, this was rounded out by Chanel’s Tuesday show that also saw the return of the flip-flop. Comfort dressing is in — uncomfortable and restrictive fashion is out. Vertiginous heels look dated, while clean elegant flats look fresh.”
Top Collections from Europe:
–The Row: “On point, sophisticated and comfortable dressing at its best. It was my favorite show of the season, by far.”
–Le Monde Beryl: “The most on point, off-runway shoe collection of the season. A+.”
–Alaïa: “I’m loving seeing a smaller super brand take center stage. The developments in their shoe collection over the last 18 months have been truly impressive. No shoe was more worn on the front row this season than the Alaïa mesh ballerina.”
Brands on the Rise:
Carel, Le Monde Beryl, Khaite
Rickie De Sole, women’s fashion director, Nordstrom
Rickie De Sole, Women’s Fashion Director, Nordstrom
Trend Talk: “Fashion flats and kitten heels continue to be an important footwear message for the season. We love that it’s no longer just a shoe for day — the low-to-no heel is made modern with gowns at Valentino and in satin fabrics at Givenchy. There’s confidence to be claimed for the wearer with a flat shoe style, and these lower styles are sure to resonate.
While designers have opted to swap out skyscraper heels in favor of more practical footwear on the runways, we will continue to offer diversity in heel height. Trends come and go, but personal style is always in —and we’ll have variety for our customers.”
Top Collections from Europe:
–Prada’s colorful satin kitten heels and Chanel’s crystal ballet flats have all the makings of the season’s it shoes,’ and will surely be a highlight in street-style outfits come spring.”
–The Row continues to elevate the everyday with understated chic sandals and woven loafers for spring.
-At Christian Louboutin, a little fantasy goes a long way! Bold raffia styles were favorites.
–Aquazzura‘s Edgardo Osorio created a joyful resort-leaning collection full of color that inspires wanderlust.
–Dries Van Noten’s pearl-encrusted heels were dreamy.
Tiffany Hsu, Chief Buying Officer, My Theresa
Trend Talk: “The ballerina style and sling back lower heel has definitely been a huge hit with our customers and we see this trend continue into spring ’24.”
Favorite Collections from Europe:
“The Row, specifically their take on the jelly flats, the Gucci platform, the Y/Project short rush-y boot, and of course the Converse flats with gold toe details at Schiaparelli.”
Roopal Patel, SVP, Fashion Director, Saks
Trend Talk: “With the shift toward a more minimal approach to everyday essential dressing, the flat has become the go-to silhouette to add that finishing touch. Whether it’s a ballerina, a slide, a soft loafer, slipper or leather flip flop, it is chic and provides comfort.”
Favorite Collections from Europe:
“Prada’s chic line up of colorful satin pumps provides the perfect amount of polish to any look. The jelly flat at The Row comes in many colors and is whimsical and fun. Loewe’s fisherman sandal was another standout of the season, and Bottega Veneta’s banana leaf sandal and hand woven intricato mules bring the craft and codes of the house to life in novel shapes that complement any look.”
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