Fashion Brands Respond to War in Ukraine
Some companies that have suspended business in Russia, either because of issues within the supply chain or because of ethical concerns.
Fashion companies and industry professionals alike are responding to the invasion of and ongoing war in Ukraine, many opting to suspend their business in Russia.
On March 1, Vogue Ukraine — which is owned and operated by Media Group Ukraine, and licenses the name and branding from Condé Nast International — posted a call to the luxury fashion and beauty industry, asking them to place an embargo on exporting their goods to Russia. It specifically named and tagged LVMH, Kering, Richemont, Prada Group, Swatch Group, Puig, Chanel, Hermès, Dolce & Gabbana, Max Mara, Burberry, Valentino, Versace, Hugo Boss, Calzedonia and Shisheido in its caption.
"In the wake of unprecedented military aggression from the Russian Federation and the growing humanitarian crisis in Ukraine, Vogue UA urges all international fashion and luxury conglomerates and companies to cease any collaborations on the aggressor's market effective immediately," the publication wrote. "These measures should apply to the brands and other entities that produce and also distribute and sell fashion goods, accessories, fine jewelry and watches, luxury lifestyle products in the Russian market. Showing your conscience and choosing humanity over monetary benefits is the only reasonable stand one can take in confronting the violent behavior of Russia. Moreover, Vogue UA appeals to the global fashion industry to not keep silence during these dark times as it has the strongest voice. Vogue UA encourages its partners and colleagues to join this call for action."
The U.S. government has imposed new sanctions on Russia following its invasion of Ukraine. FedEx and UPS halted delivery services in both Ukraine and Russia, as did DHL.
Within the fashion industry, some brands have pledged to support and amplify organizations helping folks on the ground in Ukraine and on the Polish border. Ukrainian designers such as Svitlana Bevza of Bevza, Vita Kin and Anna October have shared personal, harrowing accounts in an effort to bring attention to the conflict. 1Granary founder Olya Kuryshchuk is collecting signatures on a letter that asks "fashion businesses and their leaders to stand together with Ukraine and strongly condemn Russia's invasion."
Renzo Rosso's the OTB Foundation — the non-profit arm of the fashion conglomerate of the same name, which owns Diesel, Maison Margiela, Marni, Viktor & Rolf, Jil Sander and Amiri — and the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNDM) are working with the UN Refugee Agency (UNHCR) to help displaced Ukrainians.
Kering pledged a "significant donation" to the UNHCR, though the company wouldn't disclose an exact amount. Balenciaga, one of its brands is dedicating its social platforms to sharing updates on the situation, and made a donation to the UN's World Food Programme. Gucci — another Kering property — gave $500,000 to the UNHCR through its Chime for Change initiative. LVMH committed to giving a "first emergency donation" of €5,000,000 to the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC), and is organizing an internal fundraising campaign for the organization.
Meanwhile, in the U.S., the Tapestry Foundation announced that it had donated $100,000 to USA for UNHCR, and that it would "double-match North America employee donations toward humanitarian relief efforts." One of its brands, Kate Spade New York, said it would send $25,000 to the International Rescue Committee, in addition to its parent company's gift.
In an interview with Christina Binkley for Vogue Business, the team at luxury retailer Tsum Kyiv, want their industry partners to take a stronger stance, particularly when it comes to business dealings with Russia.
"Paris Fashion Week is going on, but in Europe there is a real war going on," said Marusya Koval, Tsum Kyiv's marketing director who, according to Binkley, is now in Poland. "The fashion industry needs to stand up. Stop trading — stop supplying Russia. Stop your relationships with Russia."
We're following how fashion brands are responding to the ongoing crisis in Ukraine, focusing on companies that have suspended business in Russia, either because of issues within the supply chain or because of ethical concerns. We will continue to update this post with any developments.
Acne Studios
In the show notes for its Paris Fashion Week show, Acne Studios wrote that the brand "stands in solidarity with the citizens of Ukraine" — as such, it had "put all our Russia activities on hold" and donated €100,000 to UNHCR and UNICEF, per an image posted by WWD's Booth Moore.
Adidas
Following similar announcements from the Fédération Internationale de Football Association (FIFA) and Union of European Football Associations (UEFA), Adidas said on Tuesday that it had paused its partnership with the Russian Football Union, in light of the ongoing conflict in Ukraine.
Asos
"We've been watching the shocking events in Ukraine in horror and disbelief. We've concluded it's neither practical nor right to continue to trade in Russia & today have suspended sales there," Asos wrote in a statement published to Twitter on Wednesday. "We're supporting the humanitarian effort and our thoughts are with the people of Ukraine."
Boohoo
According to Bloomberg, Boohoo paused sales in Russia.
Burberry
A Burberry spokesperson told Bloomberg that the brand temporarily suspended shipments to Russia, citing "operational challenges," but that its two stores and one concession in the country remain open. On its website, Burberry Group Plc released a statement saying it would support relief efforts in Ukraine through monetary donations to the British Red Cross Ukraine Crisis Appeal, and that it would "be matching any employee donations to charities supporting humanitarian efforts in Ukraine."
Canada Goose
Reuters reports that Canada Goose is "[suspending] all wholesale and e-commerce sales to Russia... in light of the challenging operating environment and evolving sanctions against Russia."
Chanel
Chanel announced via a LinkedIn post on March 4 that it was temporarily pausing all business in Russia, due to "increasing concerns about the current situation, the growing uncertainty and the complexity to operate." It's stopping deliveries, closing boutiques and shutting down its e-commerce operations in the country.
Farfetch
Farfetch temporarily suspended deliveries in Russia, per Vogue Business.
Ganni
Ganni is pausing all business with Russia, in solidarity with the people of Ukraine, the brand said in an Instagram post. It's also donating 100.000 DKK to the Danish Refugee Council, to support the group's efforts to provide aid to those displaced by the ongoing conflict.
Golden Goose
Golden Goose told Vogue Business that it's not shipping to Russia currently "due to trade restrictions."
H&M Group
Following the temporary closure of its stores in Ukraine, H&M Group — parent company to H&M, COS, Weekday, Monki, & Other Stories, Arket and Afound — paused all sales in Russia on Wednesday. "H&M Group is deeply concerned about the tragic developments in Ukraine and stand with all the people who are suffering," the company said, adding that the it made donations to Save the Children and to UNHCR through the H&M Foundation. "H&M Group cares for all colleagues and joins all those around the world who are calling for peace."
Hermès
In a post published to LinkedIn, Hermès said it would "temporarily close our stores in Russia and pause all our commercial activities," starting on March 4.
Inditex
Zara parent company Inditex temporarily suspended business in Russia, closing its 502 stores across the country, CNN reports, explaining in a statement that "in the current circumstances [the company] cannot guarantee the continuity of its operations and the commercial conditions in the Russian Federation."
Kering
Kering temporarily closed its two stores in Russia, due to "growing concerns regarding the current situation in Europe," according to the BBC.
Levi Strauss & Co.
In a statement titled "Our Humanitarian and Business Response to the Crisis in Ukraine," Levi Strauss & Co. wrote: "Given the enormous disruption occurring in the region, which makes normal business untenable, LS&Co. is temporarily suspending commercial operations in Russia, including any new investments. The company is committed to supporting its employees, partners and their families affected by this decision in the months ahead."
LVMH
A spokesperson for LVMH confirmed to Reuters that it would temporarily close the 124 boutiques it operates in Russia while continuing to pay the salaries of their employees there.
Mango
Mango temporarily closed its company-operated stores and its website in Russia, and has suspended deliveries; however, its 65 franchised locations in the country "will be able to continue to operate and distribute Mango garments, subject to their current stock availability," the brand said in a statement.
Matches Fashion
Vogue Business reports that Matches Fashion stopped deliveries in Russia.
MyTheresa
According to Vogue Business, MyTheresa paused deliveries in Russia.
Nanushka
Hungary-based Nanushka is cutting financial ties to Russia, CEO Pèter Baldaszti told Vogue Business on Tuesday, pledging that the brand won't sign new deals with wholesale partners, won't fulfill any outstanding orders and won't make deliveries in the country. "We have respect for the Russian people and our partners. We know this is not their decision, but it is impossible to do business with Russia based on our moral values," he said. "This is a significant financial decision for Nanushka, and we are hoping for a quick solution so we can rebuild those relationships."
Nanushka, which is owned by Vanguards Group, also displayed a written acknowledgement to the ongoing conflict and had a string quartet perform the Ukrainian national anthem at its Paris Fashion Week presentation. The models' makeup nodded to the colors of the country's flag, too.
Nike
According to its Russian website, Nike paused online sales in the country because it "cannot guarantee delivery of goods to customers," instead directing shoppers to brick-and-mortar locations, Quartz reports. It later closed owned and operated stores in Russia, temporarily, and continue to pay the salaries of its employees, according to the Wall Street Journal.
Prada Group
The Prada Group temporarily paused retail operations in Russia, a statement posted to LinkedIn confirmed.
Puma
Per WWD, Puma stopped making deliveries in Russia, but its stores in the country remain open.
PVH
PVH Corp., which owns Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein, temporarily closed the doors on its brick-and-mortar stores and paused commercial operations in both Russia and Belarus, according to the Wall Street Journal.
Richemont
Reuters reports that Richemont — parent company to Net-a-Porter, Cartier, Chloé and more — "suspended commercial activities in Russia on March 3 after stopping Ukraine operations on Feb. 24." According to the Financial Times, this comes as a result of "operational challenges and concerns about staff as the fallout from the invasion of Ukraine spreads."
Swatch Group
Swatch Group AG (whose brands include Omega, Longines and Tissot) temporarily suspended exports to Russia, Watch Pro reports.
TJX Companies
TJX Companies — parent company to TJ Maxx, Marshalls and Home Goods in the U.S. — is divesting its minority investment in Russian off-price retailer Familia, as a response to the conflict in Ukraine, CEO and President Ernie Herrman announced in a letter. It will also stop buying from Russia and Belarus — "an important part of our commitment as a company to stand with the people of Ukraine," he wrote.
Under Armour
"At Under Armour, one of our values is Stand for Equality. We believe in the power of democracy, the ultimate team sport," the brand wrote in a statement published on March 3, announcing that it would partner with groups on the ground to help those who have been displaced by the country and that it would halt all shipments into sales channels in Russia. "We are proud to stand with Ukraine against Russia’s attack on their democracy and will do what we can as a global company where standing for equality matters."
Yoox Net-a-Porter
Yoox Net-a-Porter posted a statement to its Russian websites announcing it wouldn't ship orders to Russia. "Due to the current situation, we are unable to complete any new orders in your country. All order fulfillment has been suspended until further notice," it read, per Business of Fashion. Yoox Net-a-Porter is owned by Richemont.
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