Fanciful Details, Craftsmanship, New Colors: What Buyers Want for Fall From Milan
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MILAN — The heavy rain, the social protests on the streets, and the snarled-up traffic didn’t dampen the mood of retailers at Milan Fashion Week, who enthused about designers’ propositions for fall.
Bottega Veneta, Prada and Sabato De Sarno’s sophomore women’s collection for Gucci were all considered hits, while Matteo Tamburini’s debut at Tod’s was seen as solid. Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, Jil Sander and Brunello Cucinelli were also singled out.
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“Only in Italy — the short week proved out that the great names in Italian fashion are still reinventing themselves and pushing their respective signatures to extraordinary new levels,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and director of women’s fashion and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman. “Italian know-how, craft and luxe materials remain the foundational trademark here from which to build upon.”
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew, said it was a “fashion-filled week this season in Milan. Freedom in self-expression underscored the collections, with a varied wardrobe of Italian crafted pieces. We are thrilled to see the quiet luxury trend of 2023 evolve with a wider offer of colorfully designed pieces with new shapes and layered textures being embraced.”
To be sure, the luxury trend was less quiet, as embellishments; new colors — from moss or lime green to mustard, and pink to pops of bold red and burgundy — and fanciful details such as fringes, lace, crystals and feathers jazzed up the looks. The strong outerwear offer, including cocooning capes, was emphasized by a plethora of boots, which are definitely the accessory of the season and were seen in styles ranging from over-the-knee to equestrian and with sturdy heels.
Boudoir-inspired slipdresses or sheer ones, sculpted jackets, shearling details and draping were also some of the main trends.
Here is what retailers had to say.
Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta wowed on Saturday night when Matthieu Blazy maintained his elevated craft while delivering an artful wearable collection. From the color-blocked dresses, sculptural shapes to the incredible movement created with fringing technique, the collection was extraordinary both on the runway and up close. The collection twists fashion into true works of art, as seen in the leather and suede patchwork skirts and the standout outerwear. Sabato De Sarno continued to build on his first womenswear collection at Gucci. The very feminine slipdresses with lace intarsia, various uses of paillettes, crystals and beading created glamour within the collection, topped off with beautiful outerwear both in cropped and extra-long versions. The boot was solidified as the must-have shoe of the collection. Ferragamo touched on many of the themes we have seen throughout the week. From the military inspiration and shades of green, the signature pop of Ferragamo red, the collection had both a sense of ease and glam. The sheer pieces brought a welcomed lightness and femininity to the collection, balanced out skillfully with tailored outerwear and exceptional leather. Evident from the energy in the room, it is clear Max [Davis] is building momentum for the brand and enthusiasm from industry leaders.
Best presentation concept: Beauty never sleeps for Brunello Cucinelli. The team at Cucinelli is the ultimate host, creating a warm, welcoming environment, complete with an incredible spread of Italian delicacies. Their couture knitwear pieces, always a favorite of the Neiman Marcus customer, did not disappoint this season.
Trendspotting: Burgundy and shades of red continue to prevail, especially rich in accessories. Seen in the equestrian boots at Gucci, soft constructed shoulder bags at Bottega Veneta and charming leather paillette clutches at Ferragamo. The pop of red continued at Jil Sander and Tod’s, which packed the perfect punch. Moss and olive emerged as an important color at Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Philosophy [di Lorenzo Serafini]. Exaggerated fluff added fantasy via fur, feathers and fuzz, most significantly in outerwear and accessories at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Marni and Gianvito Rossi. Draping and intricate design details gave certain garments a sense of movement and that special something. Boots are always a key item for fall, and the over-the-knee styles at Versace, Ferragamo and Gucci were extra cool.
Must-have item: In a city where must-have accessories are born, this season’s is the Prada mini bag and wristlet with snakeskin details.
General comment on the season: We are always looking for a combination of both glamour and wearability, which the collections in Milan successfully delivered. Our clients can find dreamy pieces in these collections to be the exclamation point in their functional wardrobe. Versace brought all the right elements of glamour with embellished jackets, chain-mail details and a pop of red. Etro opened the show with gold foil detail on more structured garments, evolving their signature bohemia to a new level of chic. Across the city, historical period inspirations were evident in some of the collections which translated into strong modern statements. While debut collections are always exciting, it is compelling to see Sabato De Sarno and Peter Hawkings move their historic houses, Gucci and Tom Ford, respectively, forward in compelling new directions. Matteo Tamburini at Tod’s and Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino both presented compelling and convincing first collections for the next chapters at their respective houses.
Tiziana Fausti, owner, 10 Corso Como and Tiziana Fausti, Bergamo
Favorite collections: Prada, Armani
Best presentation concept: Prada, Tod’s, Tom Ford.
Trendspotting: Officewear, daily, skirts and boots.
Must-have item: Accessories: clutch, high-heeled shoes.
Buying process: Great emphasis on physical showrooms and presentations to better convey the brand’s narrative and make the buying process more efficient and on point.
General comment on the season: The fashion proposal continues to consist of tailored, no-logo garments that highlight the quality of materials, for an elegant wardrobe over time.
Libby Page, market director at Net-a-porter
Favorite collections: Peter Hawkings’ second collection for Tom Ford was excellent. With 65 looks the statement was “let me show you what I can do” as he delivered a collection that covered many end-uses and was far from predictable. Bottega Veneta and Bally were also highlights; these brands made everyday clothes extraordinary, they put craft and styling at the forefront showing that beautiful fabrics and imagination can make wearable items exciting. Jil Sander — the design duo flexed how to do color in an interesting and unique way, playing with unexpected combinations. The sock-boot shoes are sure to be a hit and the evening chain-mail pieces felt new and unique.
Best presentation concept: The La Double J presentation is always a highlight — the spirit of Milan fashion is always apparent here.
Trendspotting: Color: This season was about unpredictable hues, from aubergine, lime, mustard and khaki, these “not quite autumnal” hues surprised us on the runway. Platforms: We loved Gucci’s new platform heels and Tom Ford’s heeled loafer with a nostalgic twist. It has been the season where accessories have taken center stage, from beautiful brooches, leather gloves, hats (pillow box and more), this has been the leading moment that has made all collections feel more elegant.
Must-have items: From military, peacoat, puffer, tailored, trench and beyond there is a coat for every personality and style. Transeasonal shoes: From heeled loafers at Tom Ford, brogues at Bally and mules at Bottega Veneta, we’ve loved the versatility beyond boots we’re seeing for a fall 2024 season.
New talent: Amazing to see how Sa Su Phi has moved the collections on season on season, as we hailed them one of our “new designers to know” last September.
General comment on the season: Amongst the blockbuster glam that Milan always delivers, it was also an incredibly wearable season, in the most luxurious of ways of course.
Marissa Galante Frank, women’s fashion director of beauty and accessories at Bloomingdales
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta, Prada, Ferragamo, Gucci, Tod’s.
Best presentation concept: I loved Tod’s show at the tram yard. The theme of chic travel carried throughout the show and was a fantastic debut for new creative director Matteo Tamburini.
Trendspotting: Green! The majority of strong collections in Milan this season incorporated shades of green across rtw and accessories. Chic Twin sets, many of which were embellished. Statement outerwear. East-West shaped handbags with lady like top handles.
Must-have items: Prada’s varsity jacket will certainly have a wait list for it come Fall. Bottega Veneta’s new Liberta bag. Tod’s canvas & leather trimmed garment bags. Ferragamo’s hug pouch bag in novelty leather embellishment.
Buying process: Overall Milan had many wearable pieces that felt both exciting and commercially viable. This is the perfect formula for driving healthy business.
General comment on the season: in a city that has such rich fashion history it is always exciting to see new energy from freshly appointed creative directors and how they make their mark while still honoring the past. Matthieu Blazy does such a beautiful job of this each season by debuting new it-bags that almost immediately create a sense of urgency to shop. These bags have a hint of familiarity, but with new details that make them completely fresh and desirable. This gives the customer the confidence to easily style them into their wardrobe, but with a refreshed and modern feeling.
Simon Longland, director of buying at Harrods
Favorite collections: For me Bottega Veneta was the show of Milan. Once again Matthieu Blazy demonstrated not only the exceptional artisanal skills of the house, but of his skill as a designer, from structured to soft, the collection was full of pieces for people to truly covet. With a lighter touch this season, the collection felt utterly wearable. Other standouts were Prada, for its perfectly balanced tale of contrast and juxtaposition; Peter Hawkings’ spectacular display of glamour, confidence, and swagger at Tom Ford and of course the display of beautiful sheer dresses with exquisite embroidery, hybrid knitwear and sculpted tailoring at Fendi.
Best presentation concept: Prada’s runway.
Trendspotting: Since London, cape and scarf detailing has been everywhere and brings a real sense of layering to the collections. This week we saw Jil Sander and Bottega Veneta take on the trend perfectly in their own iterations of the style. Sheer fabrications from head to toe were seen in many collections, used as a layer, or on their own as a soft statement. From ultraglamorous styling of sheer lingerie under tuxedo jackets at Dolce & Gabbana to Fendi’s uber-feminine, divinely embroidered sheer dresses and skirts, we expect this to filter through to Paris. Black absolutely dominated the runways this season, paving the way for a wardrobe that works for any and all occasions — we saw this paired with a palette of super dark browns, charcoals, burgundies as well as a few splashes of red all placed on the deep black backdrop. Season on season we see Milan tailoring go from strength to strength. This season we saw this evolve into statement coats, and a more casual approach to separates — pairing skirts and trousers with knits and shirts as a trade in from dresses.
Must-have item: There were so many! My advice is for our customers to find the pieces from the trends above that suit them the most and that they love the most from the brands that suit their personal style.
General comment on the season: As we saw in the men’s fall 2024 shows in January, Milan’s main trends seem largely unified across the majority of our brand partners: addressed and delivered in their own unique way but within a defined set of major trends, which sets the stage for a balanced season ahead.
Rickie De Sole, women’s fashion director at Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta, Prada, Gucci, Brunello Cucinelli, Max Mara.
Best presentation concept: Glenn Martens’ masterful democratic and voyeuristic approach to sharing the latest Diesel collection with the world.[…]The Diesel show had a sense of excitement, inclusivity and daring experimentation.
Trendspotting: There were exciting fabrications and extreme texture all over the runways in Milan. Marni’s painterly impasto pieces, Diesel’s shaggy, Komondor-esque washed wools, Missoni’s full-body pom-poms, Gucci’s crystal knits, Etro’s marled intarsia knits and velvets, Bottega’s red knit column dress exploding with fringe, and on. The season’s great coat story continues with highlights including Tom Ford peacoats, Prada split coats with unexpected silk backing, sequin outerwear at Gucci and boldly belted at Ferragamo. Earthy tones like browns, moss olive, and hunter green were a nice addition to the current and past few seasons’ bold reds and inky blue-black. It rounds the color palette out with some softness.
Must-have items: Bottega Veneta’s oversize shoulder bags and the new “intrecciato” sardine clutch — an outfit completer that brings an element of craftsmanship and whimsy. Gucci’s statement-making coat that was dripping with paillettes and studded with crystals. The Prada satin pointy midheels add a jolt of vibrant color to a person’s everyday uniform.
General comment on the season: Milan’s best moments took a second to register and brought unexpected joy to the senses. Catching the fiery explosion of fringe turning the corner at Bottega Veneta or getting a glimpse of the tonal fringe Gommino sole at Tod’s, the bold colors at Prada with soft folds of velvet swirling ‘round the head. When we saw it, we felt it — and we loved it. There was also a warm sophistication. This is a sense of refinement hugged by nostalgia. When things showed up sleek and chic, there was nothing severe about it. Instead, Milan’s wardrobing will bring a familiar ease with poise to the everyday.
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta continues to take our customers on a journey that demonstrates the art of craft. Blazy has an incredible ability to heighten classic silhouettes through the use of texture and artisanal craftsmanship. Prada is always a standout collection from Milan that highlights the tension of masculine-inspired tailoring with Victorian-inspired silhouettes. The result is a romantic interpretation of the modern-day uniform. Matteo Tamburini’s debut collection for Tod’s beautifully expressed the message of Italian craftsmanship. With updated classic styles in shoes and accessories, there’s a clear focus on what the future holds for the brand.
Best presentation concept: Brunello Cucinelli always unites the fashion community, bringing inspirations of the collection to life with a retro-inspired café and a library full of books acting as the backdrop for the collection.
Trendspotting: Outerwear was shown in all variations on the Milan runways. Standouts were the wool felted variations from Tom Ford, Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta. Shaggy shearlings were front and forward at Max Mara, Loro Piana and Fendi. Gucci showcased a flavor of coats for everyone.
Rich shades of merlot continue to come through the collections paired with autumnal khaki greens, navy, and pops of bright red seen best at Tod’s, Fendi and Loro Piana.
Artisanal knit layering was seen from Brunello Cucinelli, Bottega Veneta and Gucci. The twinset is back and reinterpreted in couture like silhouettes and luxurious knit weaves.
In accessories, the slingback pump makes a comeback, seen best from Prada. Gaiter-inspired thigh-high boots are also showing up in a big way. Small bowling bags are emerging as a must-have shape — we loved the Tod’s version. And if there’s one accessory to don this fall, it’s a hat, with the cloche being the key shape.
Must-have item(s): Over-the-knee boots from Gucci; Opera knit from Brunello Cucinelli; Tod’s fringed drivers; Loro Piana ski; a colored twinset from Prada; Tom Ford leather peacoat; Etro printed knit dress; Ferragamo Hug Bag in wool felt; Bottega Veneta trenchcoat in a notebook print.
Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks
General comment on the season: Milan flipped the switch and put fashion back at full speed. This week delivered a stellar lineup of collections with new energy, vision and language. It’s setting a new direction and breaking from the past, which is not easy to do with a new group of creative voices such as Matthieu Blazy for Bottega Veneta, Sabato De Sarno for Gucci, Peter Hawkings for Tom Ford and Maximilian Davis for Salvatore Ferragamo.
And then there is Mrs. [Miuccia] Prada and Raf Simons, who are in a league of their own. They make fashion poetry together and it just gets better and better each season. The testament is seeing everyone come out in their best Prada looks on show day outside of the Fondazione Prada. Now that makes for great fashion!
Favorite collections: Love was in the air at Prada, and it’s going to be big love for the Saks customer.
Matthieu Blazy delivered a super sleek and chic collection for Bottega Veneta. It felt more accessible with the sculpted and molded coats, textured fabric fringe and supple leather ensembles.
We loved Sabato De Sarno’s second collection for Gucci. The line up of chic, dégradé paillette coats was stunning. Gucci felt luxe, rich and fresh.
Jil Sander’s collection brought warmth and protection on a rainy day with cape coats, head-to-toe colorful double-face ensembles in vibrant colors, sculpted dresses and quilted coats that will bring joy to everyday life.
Peter Hawkings for Tom Ford brought the glamor back with a strong, confident and sultry line up.
Best presentation concept: Matteo Tamburini’s presentation for Tod’s inside of Milan’s largest tram station filled with 100-year-old trams was pretty special. It was a little hidden part of Milan’s history.
Trendspotting: It’s been a season of finding beauty in everyday essentials and elevating them for the customer to experience. It is a bit more animated and adorned than the quiet luxury we have been seeing the last few seasons. Statement outerwear was everywhere! Highlights were the sculpted coat at Bottega Veneta, the dégradé paillette coats at Gucci, the burgundy coat at Ferragamo and the Jil Sander round shoulder coat. We are seeing sculpted leather, velvet, slipdresses, sharp cut jackets, skirts and strong knitwear. Shearling, embellishments, embroidery, thigh-high boots, mini top handles, riding boots and novelty hats also made their return.
Must-have item: One of this season’s statement outerwear pieces is a must on our list. The stellar lineup of accessories and shoes at Prada and Gucci were standouts of the season.
Katie Rowland, womenswear, kidswear and fine jewelry buying director at Mytheresa
Favorite collections: Prada stands out consistently. The brand presents meticulously curated collections, offering intellectually stimulating and emotionally resonant pieces that are also effortlessly wearable with an edge. The hats were particularly noteworthy in this showcase. Bottega Veneta also delivered a strong showing with a distinctive edge. The impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail in both designs and fabrics, coupled with fantastic styling, resulted in wearable yet utterly elevated looks.
Best presentation concept: Tom Ford’s show was a spectacle to behold, featuring an extensive runway and captivating presentation. Prada’s show, featuring a glass grid atop a meandering stream and botanical garden was visually stunning. The accompanying soundtrack added to its allure.
Trendspotting: Statement coats featuring shearling, maxi lengths, and accentuated shoulder and sleeve detailing, as seen in collections from Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander. Leather is prominent across various categories, including dresses, pants, and coats. Black dominates across all categories, even from brands like Max Mara, known for their camel tones, which opened with a sequence of black looks, followed by shades of grey. Dolce & Gabbana also embraced this trend with an almost all-black showcase, punctuated by hints of leopard print and gold accents. Bottega Veneta, Versace, Gucci and Fendi all opened their shows with predominantly black ensembles. Burgundy continues to make a statement, alongside touches of green, lime and khaki. Elevated wardrobing remains a key theme.
Must-have item: The Prada hats were absolutely incredible and the arm strap was the new innovative way to carry your bag. For the ultimate party-ready ensemble[…]Tom Ford. Make a luxe statement with the embellished coat or the healing option from Gucci, or explore Dolce & Gabbana’s offering. Additionally, any of Bottega Veneta’s cocoon-shaped coats, particularly the stunning burgundy one, are worth considering.
New talent: Armarium, launched in early 2022, promises a curated wardrobe experience, offering well-constructed designs with a minimalist aesthetic that are easy to wear, featuring elevated fabrics at a competitive price point. It will be intriguing to observe its evolution. Feben, supported by Dolce & Gabbana with styling assistance from Katie Grand, presents a collection that feels more elevated and expansive, signaling potential for further growth and development.
General comment on the season: Milano Moda Donna is undeniably a crucial fixture in the fashion calendar, featuring some of the biggest names in fashion. These are prestigious luxury brands with distinct perspectives. Unlike London, where the atmosphere is more laid-back and street style is creatively vibrant, Milan exudes a sense of sophistication and refinement. The collections here are designed to empower and instill confidence in wearers, focusing on elevated wardrobe essentials with a contemporary and meaningful touch. Styling plays a pivotal role as well. We also witness dramatic and glamorous eveningwear from designers like Tom Ford and Dolce & Gabbana.
Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and director of women’s fashion and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta is a beautiful example of extraordinary signature savoir faire and unique craftsmanship evolving into a magnificent new idea of itself — a high bar highlight this week. Prada belongs in a pantheon of its own making and manages to marry utterly memorable and provocative design to our must-have urges. It was worth the wait with a sedating spa soundtrack at Jil Sander for the best color mixes of the week, modern softened shapes, felted wig hats, and generally, a comforting, quilted, cozy couture vibe. On the cusp of their 100-year anniversary, Loro Piana. We love the range and continuing promise at Ferragamo. The first row at Gucci was living proof that the new direction really works. The runway felt confident and desirable. The colors made us want to go home and change out of our black uniforms. Fendi was a great jumping-off point to Milan with its feminized tailoring softened with draped, knits, collapsing bags and the new over-the-knee shaft boots. The great color stories in Milan started here.
Best presentation concept: Brunello Cucinelli keeps raising its own bar. We love the presentation format there as a chance to be in Brunello’s orbit and appreciate his signature styling and incredible materiality. This is another great “Only in Italy” story. A special thank you to Tod’s for another great venue experience at the train “deposito.” The utility collection was equally memorable.
Trendspotting: Luxe minimalism, an Italian sweet spot, was quite pervasive. We saw interplay and counterpoints between structure/draping, masculine/feminine codes, tailoring/lingerie. Organic, amorphic silhouettes prevailed over predictable symmetry. Tailoring is VIP and has notably feminized and accentuates the body versus the older oversize boyfriend shapes. Jackets were often paired or under-paired back to trending pantlessness. Tailoring met with a lot of creative interpretation. Although strong black silhouette dressing opened or closed many shows, color became the newer star, especially unusual hues of mustard, pink, sky, sage, pistachio, ruby, etc. Brown and her neutral friends felt fresh, too. Materials and surfaces were highly luxe and tactile-think leather, patent, cashmere and shearling at every level of plush. Fantasy touches lightened collections, deploying feathers and fringe. Outerwear went far beyond the usual suspects. Convertible, caban and cape shapes stood out. Footwear took many forms, but the shaft boot at knee and over the knee, the slingback, and kitten heels stood out. It’s great to see the stiletto making their way back also. Handbags were made cozier through softened constructions. Makeup and hair were notably polished. Literally hair was polished, glossed and close to the head, or trailing into a long tight braid.
Must-have item: On the list of must-have items, an apron skirt from Prada, a new tubular shaft boot, one of the wrap/shawl/cape shoulder sweaters from Fendi and an hourglass jacket. For smiles, the Chupa lollipop holder charm at Fendi.
General comment on the season: Only in Italy! The short week proved out that the great names in Italian fashion are still reinventing themselves and pushing their respective signatures to extraordinary new levels. Italian know-how, craft and luxe materials remain the foundational trademark here from which to build upon.
April Hennig, chief merchant at Moda Operandi
Favorite collections: Prada reigns supreme in Milan. Miuccia [Prada] and Raf [Simons] continue to shape the future of fashion with a thought-provoking collection subverting hints of the past. Bottega Veneta was a standout for its immersive and distinguished sensibility. We also loved Sabato De Sarno’s sophomore collection for Gucci, which made it clear he is zeroing in on today’s young luxury client. Other highlights include Tom Ford, Ferragamo and Versace, all delivering strong, wearable collections.
Best presentation concept: Several brands created impressive immersive sets, including Prada’s suspended industrial runway floating above nature which created a thought-provoking tension; Marni’s handmade paper cave with a live opera singer and Tod’s commuter chic train station elevating the mundane (complete with heated seats). Bonus points for Versace’s ‘70s punk soundtrack.
Trendspotting: If shearlings dominated the outerwear offering in New York, it was all about military jackets and pea coats in Milan — ubiquitous and often shown with tall officer or equestrian-style boots. Modern tailoring in a variety of silhouettes, a sartorial hallmark of Italian houses. A moody and sophisticated color palate of oxblood, chartreuse, military green and black was seen across several shows — punctuated with touches of metallics at Versace, ultraviolet at Prada and Tom Ford, and pool blue at Etro and Bottega Veneta. A measured use of surface embellishments offered a dose of femininity — from covetable bows at Prada (if you weren’t on board yet, now you will be), dripping chain-mail trims at Jil Sander, to tonal paillettes at Gucci. Novelty bags with touches of feathers, and a variety of headwear from officer hats to skullcaps and berets added styling interest.
Must-have item: Prada’s shrunken biker and letterman jackets, Gucci’s over-the-knee boots, Ferragamo’s military outerwear, Jil Sander’s brooches, and Bottega’s new smooth leather introductions in signature bags like the Hop and Andiamo.
General comment on the season: Overall the mood was both serious and commercial — Milan means business this season. It could not be avoided that designers have external events weighing on their mind, while trying to find strength from within.
Heather Gramston, head of women’s at Browns
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta, Prada, Ferragamo.
Best presentation concept: Tom Ford for the incredible glamor and A-list front row giving us all the inspiration to dress up again.
Trendspotting: A shift away from quiet luxury and a move toward evening wear and special investment pieces.
Must-have item: Prada’s tailored jacket with the exposed silk back lining.
Budgets: Our budgets are level — we remain cautious despite the incredibly strong shows.
General comment on the season: Once again Milan did not disappoint despite designers playing it safe and staying true to their house codes. We saw a strong week of incredible collections alongside new designer debuts at Moschino and Blumarine, which were aligned with this also.
Alix Morabito, general buying and merchandising director for womenswear at Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Of course Bottega was breathtaking. Maximilian Davis has once again gone a step forward with Ferragamo, establishing a consistent ready to wear proposition. Jil Sander was extremely fresh, with its incredible color palette, and straight to the point with simple elegant designs. We also loved the debut of Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino. Simone Bellotti’s second collection for Bally was very convincing and a true preppy proposition with a very cool vibe.
Best presentation concept: Marni’s Ice Age cave-like setup; Fendi and its catwalk-theater; the 1,000 Diesel fans connected to the show for a huge video conference projected on XXL screens, and Prada’s fantastic woodland floor, which was less of a surprise as we had seen it previously for the men’s show.
Trendspotting: This Milanese season was definitely nostalgic and bourgeois. The collections were very feminine with a big development of eveningwear. A warm and baroque color palette through camaïeux of brown, bronze and yellow, forest and chartreuse green, [burgundy] and prune, reinforces this rich feeling. The shiny fabrics such as satin, the leathers, the hairy pieces and the embellishments emphasize it even more. The main feeling we take back from this is the idea that the ordinary becomes extraordinary with the baroque color palette, the sculptural pieces, the mixed materials and the embellishments.
Must-have item: The high-tight boots; hairy coat and hairy accessories such as bag or shoes; the trench; double-breasted long coat and caban; cozy but embellished knitwear. The dresses are definitely back.
General comment on the season: This season we missed some freshness. The nonstop rain in Milan and the pollution reinforced this feeling and while a lot of the colors were inspired by the woods and nature with a lot of green, we felt [trapped] “inside” and sometimes missing air. In this context some shows really stood out with their different color palettes and their music.
Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear at Printemps
Favorite collections: Ferragamo is on top of the list with Maximilian Davis’ new interpretation of sensuality through fluidity and strong attitude. Gucci’s second collection by Sabato De Sarno imposed a clear signature silhouette, must-have boots, and desirable color palette. Prada’s working uniforms and bicolor twinsets are setting up the trend.
Best presentation concept: Brunello Cucinelli’s patio presentation offered an immersive experience into essential luxury. Jimmy Choo proposed an art/design gallery where shoes were displayed as artworks, while La Double J was very extravagant and playful. Kate Cate’s very intimate reunion at Casa Cipriani was the most sophisticated Milanese experience and the crystal shoes were stunning.
Trendspotting: Bold femininity continues to thrive, through transparency, delicate fabrics, corsetry and extravagant furs (at Tom Ford, Dolce Gabbana, Del Core). Knitwear comes back in many forms: in short and cardigan versions at Gucci, in bicolor twinsets at Prada, in dresses and skirts at Ferragamo. The officer trend is raising at Prada and Gucci. The color palette is very clear: bordeaux, olive and khaki green and anthracite grey. Feathers are coming back in all forms: on hats, shoes, garments.
Must-have item: A statement coat, either a fur one, or a long one with wide shoulders, or a fitted and short leather belted one. Over-the-knee boots, the Gucci one especially, the Bally design for a more preppy shape. An oversized bag worn as a clutch, think Ferragamo or Bottega Veneta. Something yellow as a touch, as seen at Fendi, Blumarine and Ferragamo. A statement pump either with feathers (Ferragamo) or with crystals (Gucci, Aquazzura).
Budgets: Budgets are flat with the opportunity for new brands addition.
General comment on the season: Milan set a very wintry season with the importance of coats and knitwear, making us almost long for cold. The color palette is very warm. The cozy feeling is balanced and sometimes opposed to the light and transparent fabrics, crystal touch and also the stricter uniform attitude.
Giuseppe D’Amato, buying and merchandising director at Rinascente
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta. Tom Ford, who certainly confirms his aesthetic in a decisive way. The three new debuts at Tod’s, Blumarine and Moschino were very interesting, too.
Best presentation concept: Marni and its white cavern [made for] a great comeback in Milan for the brand. The white concept enhanced all the looks of the show.
Trendspotting: The coat is certainly a strong trend, in various lengths and materials as well as in the most disparate colors. The short coat proposal is interesting and in some cases interpreted as a minidress. Knitwear in its maximum expression of colors, materials and shapes (like maxi cardigan, dresses, sets, pants). Leather was seen a lot on coats and blazers, as well as skirts pants, and used perfectly as transeasonal material. In the shoes category, over-the-knee boots were very present.
Must-have item: A short and embellished coat to wear as a dress; over-the-knee boots; maxi bags; knitwear sets.
Budgets: Confirmed same as the previous season.
General comment on the season: In general, the season presented interesting news and confirmed some trends seen in January with men’s fashion. A very elegant and sensual woman emerged, with a very strong aesthetic. The shows were all very interesting with increased creativity compared to spring 2023. The designers certainly dared more, [with] clear and very decisive messages.
Marta Gramaccioni, buying director at LuisaViaRoma
Favorite collections: Gucci: a very beautiful color palette, perfect casting and refined mood.
Best presentation concept: Prada.
Trendspotting: Single-color total looks.
Must have items: Long coats with extra fine slips and over-the-knee boots.
General comment on the season: I felt happy seeing the new Moschino collection, I found energy and hope again. You can see that something important is starting. In general I saw a lot of austerity on the catwalks, many heavy fabrics, many monotonous plays on looks and sculptural pieces. [It seemed] a bit as if all the news we read every day had [infiltrated into] the designers’ [minds] and pushed them to express themselves through clothes.
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