Fall planting for everything but annuals
Summer heat and drought took their toll on many plants, in the garden and in the wild, despite the heavy dews of marine layer mornings. Summer rains are apt to be more refreshing to the spirit than the soil around here but as autumn hits its stride, the soil regains vital moisture. Autumn is traditionally time to plant bulbs, trees and shrubs, but it’s also a good time to plant hardy perennials, vines, and ground covers. Cooler temperatures encourage root growth and by the time spring rolls back around, newer plants may be growing strongly.
That’s a qualified statement, since unless depleted soil gets some healing help, new plants can follow the recently departed. The first step in fall planting is soil remediation. Don’t worry, no digging is needed (it’s not really helpful). Instead, layer on a 2-4 inch blanket of mature compost, thickest around the driplines and thinnest near the trunks of woody plants. For perennials, keep the crowns clear but spread the blanket evenly over the entire bed. Worms and winter freezes and thaws will gently integrate the compost into the soil, improving soil texture and nurturing the expanding plant roots.
Layer on compost most generously where plants are most stressed. Over that, and on every bit of bare soil, heap on fallen leaves. If your property doesn’t produce a lot of leaves, ask around and your neighbors will probably be happy to let you take some. Rake them off driveways and lawns and spread them on beds and borders, again taking care not to bury perennial crowns or tree and shrub trunks. Add a leafy blanket on veggie beds and empty border areas. By next summer, nature’s nurture will leave the soil open textured and nutritious and your plants well fed.
Autumn is a great time to shop for plants, which may be bargain priced. If perennials are looking worn out, tip them carefully a few inches out of their pots; as long as the rootballs look vigorous, the plants will grow well. Plant bulbs in clusters, placing tiny ones shallowly and larger ones more deeply, and topping off their new homes with compost and leaves. Add a marker like a stick or a stone so you don’t think it’s a great place to tuck in a new perennial(!).
Where woody plants struggled or died, dig out the roots and refresh the soil before replanting, especially if disease was present. A small hand pick is helpful in removing roots, as are the amazing Root Slayer shovels. Replace the departed with drought resistant shrubs such as manzanitas (Arctostaphylos) and California lilac (Ceanothus), both attractive evergreens that adapt well to our dry summers and wet winters. Many nurseries offer more native plants these days, from huckleberries and snowberries to wild roses and ocean spray, all of which are wonderful habitat plants to line longer driveways and add to the edges of larger properties.
Welcome your new plants by soaking them and sitting them in saucers so they retain the moisture. Dig new holes before moving or unpotting plants, making holes no deeper than the rootball but twice as wide. In heavy clay soils, shape the hole edges like stars instead of smooth-sided cylinders to help the growing roots penetrate the clay as it’s moistened and softened by winter rains. For backfill, amend the removed soil with aged compost, tamp it in gently and water well. Spread a blanket of compost and leaves to keep roots cozy and by spring, you’ll see hopeful new growth.
Contact Ann Lovejoy at 413 Madrona Way NE, Bainbridge Island, WA 98110 or visit Ann’s blog at http://www.loghouseplants.com/blogs/greengardening/ and leave a question/comment.
This article originally appeared on Kitsap Sun: Fall planting for everything but annuals
