Fall 2024 Accessories: Craftsmanship, Innovation, Color Rule Milan
MILAN — Accessories brands are not holding back on innovation, new colors, craftsmanship and embellishments, making fall 2024 a strong season of covetable designs.
Here, a roundup of some of the key accessories presentations during Milan Fashion Week.
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Bulgari’s collection had feel-good vibes, inspired by summer’s leisurely days. However, the Rome-based jewelry brand stayed true to its luxury heritage and presented artfully crafted woven wicker bags that reflected artisanal mastery, realized in soft hues reminiscent of sandy beaches. Bulgari introduced a chevron fabric to the Serpenti Forever top-handle bag and to the Serpentine pouch. To create the motif, cotton, Lurex and rayon threads were woven together by a fully hand-operated loom into a fine texture, which required almost four weeks to be completed. On the Serpenti Forever bag, ivory opal calf leather trims frame the single chevron panels, with Bulgari’s signature snake-head magnetic closure embellished with ivory opal enamel scales and black enamel eyes.
Performers took the stage in Gianvito Rossi‘s Milan showroom to set the mood for his “cabaret of the future” themed presentation, full of the ultra-feminine looks the designer is known for, as well as a few surprises. “I thought about dancing and movement,” Rossi said of his styles of the season. A golden “love knot” was how Rossi describes the interlocking gold chain detailing on a pointy-toe stiletto bootie in shiny black leather. A different kind of detail, 3D gold piping, spiraled up the leg of a knee-high stiletto boot, while the spiral effect was also prominent on a red stiletto sandal. High-heel ballerinas took the traditional day look into a nighttime vibe. And platform boots in calfskin leather popped with a pony-hair effect. There was also a fashion-meets-function surprise this season: Chic knitted boots with rubber soles.
Santoni brought a little slice of the Marche region to Milan Fashion Week, with an earthy presentation backdrop and special activations that showcased its focus on craftsmanship. “This landscape is the Marche region,” said chairman Giuseppe Santoni, who hinted that the brand will soon move back into apparel. “We are working a lot with handbags and belts and accessories, and we have an experience in ready-to-wear, which is where we want to go back to. We want to move forward into the total look,” he said. The women’s shoe collection continued to evolve, with shearling loafers embellished with fluffy tassels and day-to-night ballerinas in shearling or covered with crystals. Knee-high and ankle boots emphasized versatility, and sandals were accentuated with cashmere trim or sparkles resembling ice crystals.
To celebrate the opening of its flagship in Tokyo’s Ginza, Serapian invited Chiso, the oldest kimono-maker in Japan, to create three floral designs to adorn the silk used as linings inside bags and a scarf to tie outside. This tie-up resulted in a limited-edition collection of bags exclusive to the new store which are also available as made-to-order styles for customers worldwide.
In addition to these special bespoke creations, Serapian expanded its offering by launching the Anì bag, an updated take on a bauletto travel style hailing from the company’s archives. It featured Serapian’s signature Mosaico technique that was particularly striking rendered in dégradé effects that lent a refreshing touch to their familiar look. The technique was revisited on other bags through new combinations of materials, interweaving napa with Italian wool or exotic skins.
AGL has a knack for making tried-and-true silhouettes look fresh. This season, the brand played with geometric heels, experimenting with new shapes and imperfect proportions — as seen on a laser-cut leather pump with a triangular heel. “It’s full of personality, but still feminine, and good for every outfit,” said Vera Giusti, artistic director for the brand and one of the three sisters behind AGL. Elsewhere in the collection, micro metal studs dressed up ballet flats, moccasins and lace-up booties. An over-the-knee boot with macro platform bottoms wrapped the leg like a second skin.
Count the crystals. René Caovilla is well known for its very bejeweled looks — and the brand wanted to highlight the passionate artisans who make its collections come to life. For instance, the Cinderella pump was crafted with 526 crystals in nine different shapes, hand-embroidered on a nude and white base. A serpent sandal had an astounding 1,476 crystals, hand-applied. A new style, the Gilda, was studded with a gradient of stones, 1,220 in total. For the more understated consumer, leather boots came with the crystal buckle. The brand also debuted Caovilla Cafe, complete with a special Venetian-inspired menu.
Furla used Milan Fashion Week to unveil a new bag, the Furla Nuvola, with an immersive installation. The hobo, bucket and crossbody looks featured new hardware, a geometric interpretation of Furla’s classic arch logo personalized with a sphere.
Call it a full circle moment. As Jimmy Choo marks 28 years, creative director Sandra Choi — who’s been there every step of the way — took a look back at the British brand’s formative years and gave house classics a definitive twist. “As designers, we always take the temperature of where fashion is, and the feeling now goes back to day one of Jimmy Choo. The ’90s is very much a backdrop. There was a distinct minimalism, a classicism, but always with an element of eccentricity,” said Choi, who had Kate Moss — in all her different stages — on the Choo mood board. Standout styles included the mary jane mule (the brand first introduced the style in 1998) fused into a navy sock-boot with a pointed vamp on a low slender heel. The Brooklyn biker boot was offered in an ankle or knee-high version, topped off with Choo’s Diamond buckle. And the brand’s drop heel took the spotlight once again, as seen on the kitten heel and ankle boot in an on-trend red hue. The Diamond hardware was also key on bags, from a new tote to the quintessential shoulder bag.
“Less fireworks, more consistency.” Giuseppe Zanotti, who’s growing tired of fashion’s relentless demand for the new and the next, said he is focused on timeless classics and ’90s-inspired minimalism for fall ’24. Geometric lines defined the diverse range of heel heights, from comfortable block heels to sky-high stilettos, for which the brand is known. Details like crystal embellishments adorned squared-toed mules. The collection also included footwear essentials, like the ballet flat and riding boot. Color palettes were neutral, in line with the classic aesthetic. “It’s not something for one season only. Every single shoe is created for the long term. We need to respect the work,” said Zanotti, who is keeping materials, quality and proportion at the forefront as he designs these days.
MCM looked to old worlds and new with a fall collection that drew inspiration from Mars (complete with a spectacular hi-definition NASA film of the planet playing on a loop in the show space) and the company’s rich archives. The Mars collection was displayed on a bed of red sand and filled with shiny silver and ice gray backpacks, moon boots, and sparkly shoes. The brand said the Mars collection was the brainchild of owner Kim Sung Joo, who sees the planet as a future habitat for Earthlings and “the pinnacle of the multiverse.” Designer Katie Chung, meanwhile, has been working on the main collection, updating and downsizing the traditional MCM monogram for a new generation, and sticking to the brand’s Bauhaus ethic of function following form. To wit, there were leather backpacks with top handles and drawstring closures in an upbeat palette of yellow, green and cognac (the latter being an MCM signature color). Handbags were made from color-blocked suede panels and came in large and small sizes. Their patterns and design drew inspiration from the diamond shapes in the MCM branding. The entire collection had a modern, luxe feel.
Aquazzura creative director Edgardo Osorio wanted to give his customers something to dream about for fall ’24 — from a glam midnight-blue-velvet platform ice skate to an emerald-green evening mule with a multicolored disco heel. “We live in confusing times, and you have to stick with what works for your brand and your DNA,” said the designer, who is significantly ramping up Middle East store expansion this year, and growing the handbag business. Overall, the Aquazzura footwear collection was “much more balanced” than ever before. “It’s nice that you can walk into a store and buy anything from a ballerina to a loafer to a party shoe,” Osorio said.
Stuart Weitzman hit some of the season’s biggest shoe trends, unveiling an expansive collection filled with boots and booties, kitten heels and shearling options catering to women’s demands for practicality. An urban and quotidian flair ran throughout, in the moto-buckled combat boots and slouchy and cool over-the-knee suede versions with a chunky heel, as well the number of riding boots embossed with crocodile patterns or offered in mixed media iterations combining fabric and leather and leather and suede. On the dressier, albeit approachable, front, suede or leather kitten-heeled pointy booties mingled with sleek patent pumps and slingbacks with a squared back and sculptural heel, as well as mary jane flats and monk straps with crystal- and pearl-embellished buckles. Winter resortwear came to the fore in the shearling-lined quilted riding boots.
Graphic patterns and new detailing dress up Pollini‘s archive collection. The new Cavaliere boot, in both flat and heeled versions, was fashioned in pull-up calf leather or soft velvet embroidered with a 3D effect. The Daytona boot got an update with enriched decorative cuts reminiscent of cowboy boots. In a suede version, the fur lining added warmth.
Rodo re-edited metallic top-handle bags from its archives with a mirrored surface and inlay work. Strands of pearls and sequins embellished evening shoes and bags for the evening while day propositions included essential hardware in real solid wood on both bags and shoes, which were often shown with slightly angled heels in a sophisticated curve.
Rodo’s clutch for fall.
Nicolò Beretta reimagined some of his best-known styles for fall ‘24, but newness and experimentation were also key. “The idea of creating something beautiful, but with meaning is the basis of my work,” Beretta said. A sandal was adorned with a mirrored semicircle, while the “wrap” styles, in chrome and patent, featured bands that unexpectedly wrapped around the sole, appearing to hug the foot. These unexpected details were important throughout the collection, with steel snap buttons decorating a wrinkled patent leather ankle boot. The designer’s tried-and-true designs — like his classic mule and the draped boot — also got the flat treatment this season.
With a new chief executive officer on board and a refreshed vision, Sergio Rossi galloped into fall ’24 with a day-to-night collection inspired by horse riding — specifically side-saddle riding born in Italy during the 1300s at the court of Mantua. Craftsmanship was key and detailing took cues from saddles and harnesses, with classic riding boots, over-the-knee boots and moccasins embellished with buckles. Elsewhere, Rodeo-inspired looks, like the new banana heel, evoked Texas style.
As Hogan embarks on a mission to transform into a full lifestyle brand — and plots Stateside expansion — the brand was celebrating its Milanese heritage for fall ’24. The Tod’s Group-owned label, founded in 1986, reimagined and upgraded its core sneakers, with tennis shoes, runners and sport shoes taking inspiration from the 1980s archives. “We were really the first luxury sneaker to come to America. At that time, the market wasn’t ready,” recalled Andrea Della Valle, vice chairman of Tod’s SpA. “We deserve to come back.” Beyond shoes, the Script bag also came back into play, reworked with new proportions and details. An expanded ready-to-wear assortment was also on tap as the brand aims to combine city style with luxe craftsmanship. Also new for the season, a new “address” logo emphasizing the brand’s deep connections to its birthplace.
The glamour quotient was high at Casadei, where the new Stardust boots took the spotlight thanks to the long sparkly fringes swaying from its high-heeled leather design. It wasn’t the only show-stopping moment, as the brand included flats with glitzy bow embellishments on the front and the new Superblade metallic style featuring the brand’s signature Blade heel in a mirrored version and dotted with rhinestones, coming in silver, fire red and magenta hues.
Il Bisonte continued to pay tribute to Florence, its hometown, this season, focusing on autochthonous names such as Consuelo and Tessa. The former gave name to a new family of design, including a satchel bag and pouch featuring a decorative brass snap-hook, in nods to the infinity symbol. It was available in tan and black cherry colorways, the latter applied to other lines as the season’s hero color, including on the Tessa bucket bag with drawstrings and drawstring locks covered in weaved leather. The company hit fashion week on the heels of retooling its corporate organization earlier this month. It has parted ways with CEO Luigi Ceccon and named Masaaki Saito and Hideo Shiomoto, president of the board and managing director, respectively. Both executives are part of the C-suite of Look Holdings Inc. the Japanese owner of the Florentine leather goods maker.
Valextra’s CEO Xavier Rougeaux is charting a two-pronged approach for the storied luxury accessories maker. “Artisanship and knowhow are interesting storytelling layers, but at the end of the day a product needs to be desirable,” he said. Harnessing the brand’s craftsmanship and bringing in contributions from artisans across the world, the brand offered new interpretations of its Iside star bag for fall, including a metal engraved minaudière version and an indigo-treated one, the latter created in collaboration with Japanese artist Riku Matsuzaki, who Rougeaux met at the opening of Casa Valextra in Kyoto last year. Leveraging the quiet luxury trend, the Milano tote bag in “Millepunte” soft calfskin could become a serious competitor to The Row’s hot Margaux handbag, while as winter resortwear is increasingly becoming business fuel for luxury companies, the brand offered a range of shearling- and mohair-decked bucket bags and Iside designs.
Presented at the Circolo Filologico location, the Coccinelle fall 2024 collection was themed Punk Academia to express the unconventional take on the preppy theme marking its new accessories. The highlight of the range was the Coccinelle Campus bag, standing halfway between a crossbody and a messenger, and featuring side pockets and the gold metal plectrum that has become a signature of the brand. The label has also expanded its footwear offering by launching a new collaboration with Italian company ACBC, which specializes in the development of sustainable shoes. The result was a sneaker capsule collection with a retro flair but made of eco-friendly materials, such as eco-fur lining; rPET, made from post-consumer recycled PET bottles; alternative solutions to leather derived from recycled polyester fibers and those coming from pre-consumer recycled rice husk waste.
Giaborghini is refining its focus and sharpening price points. The label focused on three core styles for fall: a fashion-forward boot, an open-toe pump and the classic mule. The brand also revealed its capsule collection with costume designer Heidi Bivens, best known for her work on HBO’s “Euphoria.” “I’ve been thinking about styles of modern shoes that I wished existed, but with lines and silhouettes that recall the sophistication of the ’90s and early 2000s,” Bivens said. “I approached the design as I would the characters in a film or a television series, taking into account comfort, sustainability and quality.”
Geox has seen major traction in its women’s business since first partnering with Penélope Cruz last September — and the brand showcased its new campaign with the actress at its Milan Fashion Week presentation. For fall ’24, the collection covered all the classics — loafers, boots, pumps, platforms and ballet flats. Suede was a key material, and patent shined in key styles. Geox also continues to emphasize comfort with its patented technology.
The Fratelli Rossetti‘s witty “Shoe Talks” presentation took inspiration from typical Italian gestures, such as kissing, but this time using the feet instead of people’s hands. This inspired the updated design of the iconic Brera tasseled loafer. For fall ’24, the loafer came in a unisex version that featured intricate laser-cut processing, with a mix of perforation and lines. The Magenta boot also received an update, with a restyled stirrup.
It’s time for breakfast with the Borbonese Croissant shoulder bag, which features a pleated body reminiscent of the pastry. A new trapezoidal minimalist style was crafted from buffalo leather with a grainy surface. A re-edition of an archival piece from 1972, with a bowling bag shape, was updated with matte golden hardware.
Hosting the presentation at its tony and revamped headquarters on Via Bigli, Rubeus founded in 2013 by Nataliya Bondarenko and her husband Viktor, worked on branding and its commercial hits for fall. The “tutti-frutti” bejeweled buckle in colored rhinestones decked mules, pumps and slender booties in equally colorful iterations, including neon pink. In addition to flamboyant eveningwear accessories, such as the Mini Lisa trapeze bag, in satin, leather, or covered in rhinestones and marabou feathers, demure, daily handbags leaned on branding, with unisex leather shoppers bearing embossed or metallic versions of the brand’s lion logo. As part of its lifestyle ambition and plans to open the first flagship in Milan by the end of the year, a ready-to-wear capsule included mink fur coats, cashmere loungewear sets and organza shirts.
Paris Texas took over the Antonia boutique with a Milan Fashion Week bash to introduce its popular Lidia mule, a minimalist style with a pin-thin heel, in an exclusive black cherry colorway called Amarena. To celebrate the partnership, the Milan boutique unveiled store windows covered with a deep red transparent film and maxi screens projecting cherry-themed imagery.
As Beyoncé brings Western fashion firmly into the spotlight, emerging talent Caterina Ravaglia is ready for her own breakout moment. For fall ’24, the Kate Cate designer’s affinity for Western style is seen in a range of leather and suede boots adorned with brass ornamentation, stars or studs. Sandals feature metallic fringes that embellish the heels, and mules also get the studded treatment. “I am so excited about this Western comeback. I’ve had some of these styles and prototypes for two years, but it wasn’t the right time,” Ravaglia said. The designer, now in her second season, acknowledged that shoes are “the most difficult” product to make. “I’m at the factories twice a week. I’ve been working so hard to make this happen,” said the designer.
Le Silla never strays far from the sexy stiletto. For fall, the brand offered up lace-up pointy-toe boots, velvet sandals with rose embellishments and allover crystal booties.
Aleví revisited its signature cage-like shape in new metallic sandals in leather or crafting them in satin and covering its graphic design in tonal rhinestones. They made for the perfect pair for party-goers, but for those looking to sport the style also in daylight, the brand reinterpreted the design in a boot version in stretch napa that was particularly charming in the burgundy color.
As parent company Falc S.p.A. marks its golden anniversary, two of its brands, Flower Mountain and Voile Blanche, are exploring new territory. For fall, Flower Mountain unveiled a collaboration with lifestyle brand Barbour. Taking elements of Barbour’s jacket, Flower Mountain mixed nylon with suede on the upper of its Back Country model. “Comfort and a modern take on lightweight practicality attracted us to the products that Flower Mountain makes. The cork footbed feels natural, and the shoes are beautifully crafted,” said Ian Bergin, director of menswear at Barbour. And Barbour also borrowed Flower Mountain’s dandelion logo to dress up the classic tartan-lined jacket. Meanwhile, over at Voile Blanche, the brand — which is best known for its sneakers — unveiled a high-heel range called Cosmo during Milan Fashion Week, which includes sneaker booties with kitten heels.
Grunge and glamour. High and low. Mach & Mach drew inspiration from the photographs of famed fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh for its ode to 1990s style. Crystals were key for fall ’24, used as allover studs or oversized ornaments on sandals, slingbacks, loafers, pumps and riding boots. The label’s signature bow was transformed — punctuated with rounded studs and dotted in crystals — standing out in satin or leather.
Vegan brand Themoirè continued to up the ante of its commitment to environmental responsibility by introducing innovative materials to craft its design bags. Highlights included styles crafted from Wastea, made from tea waste that is processed to be converted into a vegan fabric, and Palma, developed using the pruning residues of the Alicante palm tree and employing advanced technology in order to create a palm tree coating. Another standout material was Sorona, which is produced by processing corn seeds mixed with polyester fiber and resulting in soft, furry textures that covered geometric handbags and tote bags in neutral colors.
For fall the storied Milan-based Colombo handbag brand conscripted artist Arik Levy for a capsule collection comprising a new rendition of the signature Dione bag defined by a sharp and asymmetric shape on a seemingly regular top-handle design, available in leather and patent alligator versions. The style was also offered in a luxurious version with a 14-karat gold handle embellished with 79 diamonds.
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