Fall 2023 Accessories: Highlights From Paris Fashion Week Presentations
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PARIS — As ready-to-wear increasingly shifted toward exploring new takes on suiting and a more formal aesthetic, the desire for bold accessories found new ways to express its exuberance.
From the maxi proportions of handbags seen at Balenciaga and Loewe to boots taking the concept of thigh-high to the extreme by directly merging with pants as spotted here and there at Alexander McQueen and Victoria Beckham, there were plenty of statement pieces to catch during Paris Fashion Week.
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Under Jonathan Anderson’s creative direction, Loewe showed handbags on the runway that were all inspired by the brand’s archive from the 1970s. “It’s the first time I’ve kind of been embracing the idea of the historical leather house,” he told WWD. “That’s the beauty of fashion that you can revisit, reinterpret, reengineer.”
The only category that was MIA this season were sneakers, save for the charming collab between Cecilie Bahnsen and Asics and a new iteration of the tie-up between Miu Miu and New Balance.
Off the runway, accessories specialists went for full-fledged maximalism.
While Christian Louboutin celebrated 30 years of its signature red soles with sparkly pumps and sandals, studded knee-high boots and a flamenco-inspired capsule collection developed with Rossy de Palma, at Roger Vivier, Gherardo Felloni went full couture through rich ornaments and ’50s references, displaying boots cut in taffeta or embroidered with feathers, sequins and pearls as well as suede platform styles with a cascade of ruffles and leather bags with draped effects.
Other presentations across footwear, handbags and jewelry added to the extravaganza via flashy pieces, scaled-up proportions and strong collaborations, which peppered the accessories scene over the past week. Here, WWD rounds them up.
Mary Katrantzou x Bulgari
After having teamed up already in 2021, Bulgari and Greek fashion designer Mary Katrantzou rekindled their partnership, upping the creative ante to develop couture takes on the Roman jeweler’s signature Serpenti handbags. The limited-edition capsule collection included four top-handle designs depicting lush tropical gardens, blooming flowers, colorful birds and peacocks through rich embroideries of glass beads, crystals and sequins. These were all hand-sewn by artisans of the Atelier Montex in Paris, before being set on the bag’s structured body in Tuscany. Each style required between 60 hours and 105 hours of work and will hit the shelves of a selection of Bulgari stores in key resort destinations such as Capri and Porto Cervo, Italy, starting in May.
Cartier
Expanding on its historic Grain de Café line imagined in 1938 by Jeanne Toussaint and relaunched on five markets last December, Cartier presented the classic yellow gold and a brand new rose gold and obsidian which will now be launching worldwide in June. Among the standouts were a collar necklace where striated gold leaves finished off with diamonds are interspersed with obsidian ones, three rings with clustered leaves that jiggle in a very satisfying way and a bracelet that takes the repeating motif into a more abstract direction.
Bruno Frisoni
Bruno Frisoni kept expanding his eponymous line — which was established in 1999 and relaunched last year after he paused it in 2012 — with an eccentric flair, too. Bold designs included pumps covered in shaved shearling or punctuated with snap studs and detachable satin mice for a playful touch. In the new “Pillow Bow” mules, a sleek elastic strap was flanked with a puffy bow, available also in a reflective fabric for additional edge, while a metallic cabochon detail popped up on new pointy pumps aptly named “Knob” — marking the evolution of the “Comet” adornment already in the assortment. Elsewhere, Frisoni continued to repurpose vintage denim and drape leather in new styles, including flats; render his distinctive asymmetric squared toes in boots and a stunning peep-toe pumps with iridescent effects, and add his signature maxi flower embellishments on the side of mules.
Aquazzura
Although the big focus at Aquazzura this season was on the official debut of the handbag category — celebrated with a cocktail event at Hotel D’Evreux and a full-fledged collection — it’s always difficult to shadow the high-glam and bejeweled footwear styles that sit at the core of the brand’s business. For fall, founder Edgardo Osorio continued to bet big on high-heeled sandals in vibrant colors and dazzling details, as seen in the caged upper structure of a fuchsia sandal topped with floral brooches and in a silver design with crystal-covered straps.
Delvaux
In its understated luxe way, Belgian handbag label Delvaux played with the maximalist trend through proportions, instead. For one, the company reinterpreted one of his most emblematic bags, the “Brillant” design dating back to 1958, in a new XXL version crafted from supple leather in a chic cognac shade and timeless black, as well as rendered in an unexpected camouflage pattern. In another take, the design joined the brand’s distinctive “Pin” bucket bag in being reimagined in felt with contrasting leather trims in different colors. As always, Delvaux leveraged striking art installations to further elevate its presentations: this time Belgian artist Ben Storms’ sculptural metallic pillows stacked into columns exalted the brand’s most richly embellished offering, including handbags embroidered with sequins that are set to appeal to consumers come next holiday season.
Serapian
Bigger sizes and new textures also marked the collection of Serapian, the luxury accessories brand founded in Milan in 1928 and controlled by Compagnie Financière Richemont since 2017. Known for its Mosaico hand-braided motif, the storied label introduced the “1928 Tote” leather bag as a modern, everyday option, accessorizing it with a complementary matching pouch inside for extra functionality. The label also exalted its signature “stop-and-go” motif in other shapes by weaving a mix of matte, glossy, metallic and suede leathers to create new effects in the pattern.
This was the first time Serapian decamped from its hometown to host a presentation and cocktail event at the pop-up store it opened a stone’s throw from Place Vendôme in October and running till the end of month. The goal is to make the format itinerant, with the next stop set for New York in September, opening during the city’s fashion week.
Joseph Duclos
After making a name for himself at Hermès, Jean Paul Gaultier and Moynat, Ramesh Nair is slowly but steadily building a journey of great craftsmanship at Maison Joseph Duclos, the brand launched in 2021 to celebrate the legacy of entrepreneur Joseph Duclos, who in the 18th century combined three small tanneries in Lectoure, France, and earned the title of Royal Leather Manufacture by King Louis XV in 1754. The luxe range has been expanded to include an envelope-shaped leather handbag and new color combinations of the Lectoure line of tote bags.
Yet the highlight of the season was a limited series inspired by American artist Peter Halley, known for his contemporary and geometric abstract art in bold colors. Put in visual conversation with a selection of Halley’s artworks temporarily displayed at the Joseph Duclos store in Paris, the capsule collection included new takes on the brand’s staple designs like the Diane bag. This was rendered in matte leather with contrasting, zingy orange shade and taupe details inside, which donned a more edgy and modern look to its refined appearance.
“It changes completely,” said Nair while showing every detail, down to the differently colored stitching outside and inside. “Things that are hidden are more interesting, sometimes.”
Mark Cross
Season after season, designer Rebeca Mendoza is also convincingly updating the codes of historic handbag brand Mark Cross. For fall, she embraced opulence and went full-on with jeweled embellishments, which added glitz to the geometric shapes of the iconic “Grace” bag — seen in the hands of Grace Kelly in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1954 film “Rear Window” — and the more modern rendition Mendoza introduced with the sleek, rectangular silhouette of “Grace Lungo.” Arched pouches and a draped moire shoulder bag referencing silk scarves were also punctuated by crystal brooches, while the “Frame” clutch charmed even without embellishments thanks to its statement XL size and vibrant colors, as seen in a striking version in emerald green satin.
Published By
One of the most exciting brands in Paris, Published By shone with its sculptural and gender-neutral pieces. Established in 2020 by Christoph Tsetinis and Ruby Wallen, the Austrian emerging label develops chromed accessories inspired by the organic shapes of natural elements and realized through processes borrowed from the automotive industry rather than fashion. In particular, Tsetinis relies on waste-free, 3D design to transform recycled materials such as plastic and used car parts into handbags, jewelry and even some home items, that deliver the illusion of moving metal.
For fall 2023, Tsetinis introduced the “Stone Cloud Bag” style, inspired by his Greek heritage and the country’s rocky shores. “These are the stones that my dad gave me from Greece and just said: ‘Maybe you get inspired’,” he said pointing to the new design. The individual, 3D printed stone pellets were attached onto the bag using a click-mechanism developed in-house, marking the debut of a new technique that will inform future collections, too.
Beginning his career training as a carpenter, Tsetinis’ journey had a change in direction through attending classes of Hussein Chalayan at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna and later piling experiences at the likes of H&M and Alexander McQueen. The automotive world is one of the common grounds he has with Wallen, who boasts a background in finance and has worked for clients such as Jaguar Land Rover.
Paris Texas
Excitement ran wild also at Paris Texas, since the display of the new collection coincided with the official announcement of Brazilian conglomerate Arezzo & Co. taking over a majority stake of the buzzy Italian footwear brand. To mark the big day, the label showcased big boots as well as fierce stiletto mules and slingback styles. The punkish vibe that was subtly teased in the previous collection exploded for fall via studs, metallic textures, distressed or lived-in effects and buckles galore, as seen in seductive thigh-high black boots. Elsewhere, python and second-skin vinyl options added to the glam offering.
Iindaco
Pamela Costantini and Domitilla Rapisardi reignited their more rock ’n’ roll vibe, too, unveiling a fiery fall collection hinged on thigh-high leather boots and ankle booties. Iindaco founders dubbed the range “Inferno,” or “hell” in English, as they wanted it to evoke their and their peers’ strength and resilience in the face of adversities.
“We’re part of a generation of designers who launched a brand in the unluckiest of the times. First the pandemic, then the war, now recession,” said Costantini. “But we also wanted to go back to our beginnings with a fiercer, less girly collection.”
The signature crystal-encrusted heels with a flame design got taller than ever, while the grosgrain moire fabric was flanked by flame-printed eco silk. Drawing inspiration from the 2000s, silver studs replaced crystals on sleek black leather boots, while red ankle booties came with a snake effect. Both options came with criss-cross details either on the back or a side and a new curved heel in silver.
Nomasei x Julia von Boehm
Loafer lovers could rejoice thanks to one cool collaboration unveiled during fashion week. Stylist Julia von Boehm teamed up with Nomasei’s cofounders Paule Tenaillon and Marine Braquet to offer a new take on the niche footwear brand’s “Nono” and “Trench” designs, which are infused with a ‘70s vibe with their squared toes and chunky heels.
Known for her penchant of including classic mannish staples into a woman’s wardrobe, von Boehm had already featured the shoes many times in her editorials and celebrity styling duties, including featuring them on Nicole Kidman. Hence, the idea of reworking the designs in a “red-carpet” version via a five-item capsule collection. In addition to two renditions covered in lead-free Bohemia crystals, the range spotlights beautiful colorblocking, combining beige with orange and cognac shades, as well as white juxtaposed to pastel pink and baby blue or mixed with yellow and brown. In sync with Nomasei’s eco-oriented approach, these colorful options were crafted by scraps of leather discarded by other luxury fashion houses in Nomasei’s Tuscan factory in Montopoli — a feat that informs the limited-edition nature of the collection.
The collaboration also included silk menswear-inspired socks in pink, burgundy and white or embellished with crystals. “We wanted to do socks but didn’t know when to begin, and we thought this was the best moment. From now on, it will be a permanent category in our offering,” said Tenaillon, who met Braquet while working at Chloé and established Nomasei with her at the end of 2019.
Patou x Sita Abellan
“We come from two different worlds. I’m a 40-something gay man and I know nothing about electronic music. And you, Sita, are a fashion icon, a muse, a mother. You encapsulate the new generation and you play with fashion with the most amazing freedom,” said Patou artistic director Guillaume Henry at a dinner celebrating the launch of the Patou x Sita Abellan versions of the Petit Patou. For this version, the musical artist decided on a combination of metallic leather and embroidered denim, available in blue-and-red or pink-on-pink colorways. They come adorned with a gold chain spelling Patou in gold letters and a snake-shaped S for Abellan.
Destree
Destree cofounders Géraldine Guyot and Laetitia Lumbroso cohosted the presentation of their fall 2023 collection with Hampden’s owner Stacy Smallwood to mark the partnership with the retailer, which is carrying both the ready-to-wear and accessories lines of the brand. The latter category was boosted with new bags, which make for Destree’s biggest product segment, followed by jewelry and ready-to-wear. Flanking hero styles such as the “Albert,” a new structured handbag crafted from either polished leather or fabrics embellished with floral patterns was introduced. Available in different sizes and shades — including black, honey, red, olive green and fuchsia — the item was elevated by a statement metal hardware standing as closure.
L/Uniform
New home, new sizes for French accessories brand L/Uniform, where Jeanne Signoles presented small and smaller versions of the best-selling Carry-All totes in the label’s new 100-square-meter store on Quai Voltaire. The No. 183 miniature is minimalism at its utmost, with clean lines and endless combinations of colors in a format fit for a phone, a lipstick and a set of keys.
Eéra
Romy Blanga and Chiara Capitani kept building on their juicy recipe of turning high-end jewelry appealing for younger consumers by tweaking and elevating their staple designs, including chunky chains that are increasingly attracting male customers to their brand, too. Highlights for fall were developments in the “Piercing” family, where hoops were scaled up to new proportions and encrusted with diamond pavé, as well as in the “Reine” chain motif. Introduced in Eéra’s debut collection and based on design resembling snap hooks, the latter was given a tubular feel and encrusted with diamonds. New to the brand, the “Hug” line included easier-to-approach necklaces and bracelets threaded with a single charm made of two interlocking squared elements.
Chaumet
Chaumet’s Liens collection just got bigger, with the introduction of chunkier versions of its Liens Evidence rings that hit for a more unisex angle and a new sunray finish for the Jeux de Liens Harmony pendant necklaces that came in three sizes. And the Place Vendôme house also introduced the first high jewelry designs in this line, intended as easy graphic pieces that could be worn a touch more casually than their ornate counterparts.
Yun Yun Sun
Stones so colorful and big they might be rock candy were the stars of the second Yun Yun Sun collection. Chandelier earrings dripping with crystals, ones with chunky colored stones, tennis-style bracelets and necklaces glittered at a candlelit dinner hosted by Sun, also known to Western colleagues as Aimee Sun, and attended by the likes of Bingbing Fan and Maye Musk.
Pierre Hardy
At Pierre Hardy, sporty high-heeled sandals crafted from neoprene appeared next to the “Stella” boots and slingback styles defined by a graphic kitten heel that is set to resonate well both for daytime and as unfussy, after-work option. The most interesting renditions were the ones playing with iridescent or metallic effects, as well as a lilac version that made for a pop of color in the dark range. Yet even these versions couldn’t compare with the holographic mules seen in the “Bulles” line, which stood out for the circular-shaped straps just as much as for their color payoff.
Aeyde
Luisa Dames has consumers’ different needs covered in the fall collection of her footwear brand Aeyde, which she established in 2015. The Berlin-based label that has garnered the market’s interest with its functional and contemporary-priced designs, presented a vast array of styles ranging from Texan and biker boots with metal hardware to penny loafers. For the first time, Dames also ventured into creating pumps with graphic pointy toes. The iridescent effect seen on the new “Catrina” kitten-heeled sling-back design offered another highlight injecting a dash of unpredictability in the line.
Manu Atelier
The half-moon shape of the new “Ilda” shoulder bag introduced by buzzy Turkish accessory brand Manu Atelier made for a go-to design for every day. Available in black leather, buttery shades and a flashier silver version, the style was also rendered in suede, which was particularly striking in the purple and cyclamen colorways. For those looking for more glitz, founders and sisters Beste and Merve Manastır scattered crystals on the “Papillon” and “Pencil box” party-ready clutches.
Marzook
Crystal fans won’t be disappointed by the bold designs of Marzook, either. The brand founded in 2012 by Shouq and Fahad Al-Marzook further boosted the exuberance of its statement pieces with new dazzling takes on its crystal ball minaudière bags and fan-shaped clutches. Crafted from Plexiglas resins or outlined by a metal structure, the latter were further embellished with feathers for fall. These also appeared on another Marzook signature, the bold pill-shaped design that in one of its latest iterations was crafted from a glow-in-the-dark material for the ultimate coup de theatre during a night out.
Fatma Mostafa
A poetic vibe marked the creations of Fatma Mostafa, an Egyptian emerging designer to watch. The Fashion Trust Arabia 2022 winner for the jewelry category, Mostafa launched her namesake line in 2017, pouring into it her different passions. Introduced to embroidery from an early age by her mother, growing up Mostafa pursued studies in fine arts and discovered a fascination with colors through oil painting. All these elements informed the multidisciplinary approach she took to jewelry and that resulted in beautiful creations mixing 24-karat gold-plated brass or copper with handmade embroideries of natural landscapes and flowers. Cue to the “Water Lilies” series filled with statement pendants, rings and mismatched dangling earrings, often finished off by pearls.
Aida Bergsen
Istanbul-based designer Aida Bergsen also applies her background in sculpting and traditional goldsmithing techniques in creating eye-catching jewelry pieces inspired by nature. Playing with gold, diamonds and enameled details, she introduces flora and fauna motifs in eccentric brooches, necklaces and rings, as seen in the new seductive piece “Danse Serpentine” in which a snake covered in diamonds and rubies wraps around the finger. For a more delicate touch, the “Story” line in 18-karat yellow gold was defined by subtler proportions and added bees and butterflies to the animal reference. The range included dangling earrings tipped with corals and a multifinger ring embellished with diamonds, rhodolites and rubies.
Begüm Khan
Fellow Turkish jewelry designer Begüm Khan has a more whimsical and fun take on nature. The approach has been informed by Khan’s stays around the world: she began her studies at the Bocconi University in Milan before moving to Shanghai, where she lived six years and completed a master’s degree in Chinese culture and art. She eventually launched her namesake line 10 years ago with fancy cufflinks, quickly expanding it to bold necklaces, cuffs, brooches, earrings and even bags, belts and headpieces, all nodding to flowers, animals as well as talismans and lucky symbols. Khan now introduced rings, after testing the segment with a small capsule collection of diamond styles. “After 10 years, I think it was a missing category,” said the designer, who’s gearing up to celebrate her company’s milestone in Istanbul in October. Before that, the brand will open a temporary store at the Mandarin Oriental hotel in Bodrum in June, which will add to the boutique it already has in Istanbul. Khan aims to have one new opening each year for the next five years, starting from doubling the presence in her hometown and touching down in Dubai.
Sophie Bille Brahe
For Sophie Bille Brahe, it’s not enough to do things the right way yourself. That’s why her latest “Toi, Moi, Nous Sommes” collection, slated to launch at Dover Street Market in New York later this month, contains traceable stones in addition to recycled gold.
They were among the highlights of her Paris presentation where the Danish jeweler also showed new letters in her “Lettres de Lumière” range inspired by her handwriting, and the Floating Island ring with a total of five carats of diamonds, inspired by the islands dotted around Miami.
Bevza
Wheat has historically been Ukraine’s biggest source of prosperity since ancient times and that’s what inspired designer Svitlana Bevza. She turned it into a graphic jewelry set that curls around the neck in an elegant row, with matching earrings in various lengths. With the black-and-gold version, the designer wanted to materialize her homeland’s struggle and “the price paid” for this crop in the past year, which has seen fields destroyed by Russian forces.
L’Atelier Nawbar
Diverting from its usual nods to astrology and Art Deco-reminiscent motifs, Lebanese fine-jewelry brand L’Atelier Nawbar was inspired by chemistry for the new “Atoms” collection of pendants, bangles, earrings and rings. For the occasion, the brand — which dates back to 1891 and has been revamped by the fourth generation of Nawbars — framed in 18-karat gold structures, a series of spherical enamel stones in white, black, red, green, lilac and turquoise. Often covered in diamonds, the pieces are meant to be stacked, encouraging both personalization and a more playful approach to jewelry.
Jacquie Aiche
Layering is at the core of the Los Angeles-based designer Jacquie Aiche’s vision of jewelry as much as the hand-selection process of minerals and semi-precious gemstones inspiring positive energy she bases her gold creations with. “I pick the stones, or better they pick me. I’ve been collecting them since childhood and growing up I realized that traditional jewelry wasn’t for me,” said Aiche, who launched her brand in 2007. Her jewelry pieces range from thin chains punctuated by diamonds to big opal, amethyst and turquoise pendants and intricate inlaid designs, the most eye-catching of which were themed after aliens. The designer also elevates second-hand Rolex watches with her customization and collaborated with Timex on a similar move, but at more affordable price points.
Dentro
Isa Kauffman took the mission of adding a twist to fashion accessories quite literally. Launched in 2020, her brand Dentro is based on the simple yet anarchic concept of flipping handbags — and perspective — by showing what’s inside or supposed to be hidden. In doing so, Kauffman invites consumers to embark in a discovery process of the different parts of bags, celebrating the behind-the-scene craftsmanship. Her designs come in different shapes — from the cylinder “Anona” to the rectangular silhouette of the “Otto” bag — and reveal foam padding, reverse handles, stitching and threads left uncut to add movement to the pieces. In addition to leather, she developed styles in paper or a moire fabric as well as worked with metallics and cracked and lived-in effects to amplify the raw vibe of her aesthetic.
Eilaf
A celebration of craftsmanship and Sudanese heritage takes center stage at contemporary handbag brand Eilaf, too. Established by Eilaf Osman, the label exalts East African artisanal motifs and techniques and aims to promote eco-conscious practices by using basket weaving, handwoven cottons and renewable natural materials. Design-wise, the Eilaf bags stood out for their graphic quality, as seen in the circular-shaped “Medani” and “Rwenzori” lines. Both were crafted from leather with artisanal embellishments made by weavers in Uganda using natural resources — raffia, banana stalk and flower dyes. The basket line “Dom” involved a marginalized tribe in Darfur in the creation process.
Maison Ernest
Originally known as Ernest Chausseur, storied brand Maison Ernest staged its first show ever at the legendary nightspot Crazy Horse, where it invited press and buyers in full daylight for a cabaret performance to display its new footwear collection. Established in 1904, the brand is on a rejuvenating mission under the creative direction of Isabelle Bordji, who joined the company in 2012. For fall, Bordji included plenty of knee-high boots with criss-cross details on the front and rendered in fire-red leather, a flashy pink option punctuated with crystals or in an allover logoed version. Ankle booties and pumps reprised the same seductive mood with the addition of gold chain details dangling from the stiletto heels.
Launch Gallery: Fall 2023 Accessories: Highlights From Paris Fashion Week Presentations
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