The Fakeout Trick Could Cut Your Braiding Time In Half

Bri Johnson

It usually takes five to nine hours to get my hair braided. I’ve even lost an entire day on certain styles; small boho braids and long micro braids can keep you in the salon chair for a solid 10 to 12 hours. I assumed this was unavoidable until I came across a hack that can cut your braiding time in half.

In a recent Instagram video, New Jersey Braider Aicha Kamara installs a curly sew-in at the center of a client’s head while filling the perimeter with boho braids, greatly reducing the number of braids she has to execute while mimicking the appearance of a full head of braids. The look is so convincing that some commenters under Kamara’s video labeled this technique, which works best with boho braids, the fakeout.

I reached out to Kamara about this genius hack and she took me back to its roots: “When I was a kid, it was a style that I would get all the time,” says Kamara. The fakeout is a ‘90s technique that’s become particularly useful in our modern time as intricate, time-consuming braided styles become popular again. Kamara fell back into this technique when a client of hers came to her in need of boho braids in a pinch. That said, it’s still a secret menu item at her salon.

The fakeout technique cuts down half of the time it takes to complete the service, says Kamara. Mid-back-length boho braids will take about three to four hours with this technique versus the usual six to eight hours. As a bonus, covering the middle of the head with bundles in the same texture as the loose hair creates a fuller look.

Ahead, everything you need to know about this technique, including what kind of hair to buy and how much it costs.

What type of hair do you need for fakeout braids?

The fakeout technique requires three types of hair: regular Kanekalon braiding hair, weft human hair bundles, and non-weft human hair bundles. Kamara recommends getting two bundles of the two types of human hair and two to three packs of Kanekelon braiding hair. Weft bundles are multiple pieces of loose hair held together at the top by a strip. Non-weft bundles don't have a thin piece of twine or a band holding the hair together. As tempting as it might be to only buy one or the other, you do need both. Weft bundles get sewn to the cornrows in the middle, while the non-weft hair is used for the loose strands in the braids (which are done with Kanekelon hair).

Be mindful that the two types of human hair should match in texture, color, and length. If you really can't find hair that matches, Kamara says this would be the time to make an exception and get all weft hair. (Remember, this isn’t ideal, but is better than getting hair bundles that don’t match.) If you opt for getting only weft bundles, your stylist will cut the weft off to use for the loose strands in the box braids and this may cause some shedding.

Luvme Hair is a great site to get quality weft human hair bundles, while Sam’s Beauty (a virtual beauty supply store) offers a range of non-weft human braiding hair. Amazon has never failed me when it comes to Kanekelon hair — the X-pressions brand is widely used and loved. You can also find all three types of hair at a beauty supply store or ask your stylist for recommendations.

Luvme Hair Human Hair Bundle

$56.00, Luvme Hair

X-Pression Premium Original Ultra Braid

$20.00, Amazon

How much does the fakeout technique cost?

You’re paying for speed when it comes to this style. Kamara charges $380 for the fakeout technique compared to $420 for regular boho braids. But that doesn’t account for the extra hair you have to buy, which will cost around $230 following this breakdown: $150 for two weft bundles, $60 for two non-weft bundles of loose braiding hair, and $20 for two packs of Kanekelon hair (though most braiding salons now provide Kanekelon hair as part of the service).

That puts your grand total, on average, around $600. The good news is that you can reuse the weft bundles up to four times with proper maintenance (washing, conditioning, and brushing the extensions as needed).

What to expect during an appointment

Before booking an appointment, let your stylist know that you want boho braids with a sew-in in the middle. Because the resurgence of this technique is still in its early days, not all stylists offer this service yet.

Like with any protective style, you'll want to start with clean, moisturized hair. If a wash service isn’t included in your appointment, thoroughly cleanse your hair and scalp beforehand. To start, your stylist will section off the perimeter of your hair, clipping it away from the rest. Once that’s secure, the center of your hair will be braided into a cornrow pattern, which usually takes around 20 to 45 minutes.

With this base in place, the stylist will continue in one of two ways: Either by sewing in the tracks of hair (weft bundles) into the center of cornrows, or by braiding the perimeter. Kamara says the order doesn’t matter here; eventually, both steps have to happen.

Once the braids and sew-in are complete, it’s important to zhuzh the hair with an allover mist of water or leave-in conditioner (or a mixture of both). This will activate the curls for a vacation-ready look. Brooklyn-based braider Shanna St. Cyr always finishes her boho braids off with the Lotta Body Coconut Oil and Shea Foaming Curl Mousse which adds a soft hold and beautiful sheen to the hair, plus it smells like a tropical vacation.

Lottabody Wrap Me Foaming Curl Mousse

$6.00, Amazon

How to maintain a fakeout braid style

The maintenance for this style is simple: “Keep the hair moisturized with water and conditioner and finger comb it to enhance the curls every day,” says Kamara. We love the Eva NYC Bounce Back Curl Reviving Mist which revives curls and hydrates the hair with a dose of aloe vera. Kamara says to be cautious when applying mousse after the initial styling, because “using it too often can dry out the hair.”

Eva NYC Bounce Back Curl Reviving Mist

$15.00, Amazon

Keep your scalp hydrated with a nourishing treatment. Dermatologists recommend spritzing your scalp every four to seven days when your hair is in a protective style. Atlanta-based board-certified dermatologist Patricia Oyetakin, MD, recommends the Pharm To Table Scalp Relief Tea Tree Leave-In Conditioner and Camille Rose Mint Condition Spray. "Spraying too often may lead to scalp buildup and flaking while not spraying enough can lead to dryness and breakage, so pay attention to how your scalp feels and adjust accordingly,” Dr. Oyetakin previously told Allure. Generally speaking, you should spray your scalp one to two times a week.

Pharm to Table Scalp Relief Tea Tree Leave-In

$15.00, Amazon

Camille Rose Mint Condition Spray

$12.00, Walmart

This style can last six to eight weeks which is customary for braids. “The great thing about this technique is that once the middle starts getting old, you can take the middle [sew-in] out and just braid the rest and you get a two-in-one style,” says Kamara. If you find that your braids are looking frizzy sooner than the sew-in, you can re-do the braids around the perimeter to refresh the look without getting a whole new style. It’s important to cleanse whichever section you remove before re-installing to avoid buildup and make sure your scalp stays clean and healthy.

Discover more braid trends:

• Freestyle Braids Are Not Your Grandma’s Cornrows

• Here’s Proof That Box Braids Are the Most Versatile Protective Style

• Boho Braids Are TikTok's Favorite Protective Hairstyle

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Originally Appeared on Allure