Facetasm RTW and Men’s Spring 2021

Kelly Wetherille
·3 min read

When guests took their seats in the large, warehouse-like space where Hiromichi Ochiai staged his spring show, they were given face masks with childish drawings printed on them, which turned out to be both a nod to the world we’re now living in and a hint of what was to come.

“One day, I was moved by the drawings made by my four-year-old son. Memories of your childhood, yesterday’s supper and tomorrow’s memories,” Ochiai wrote in his show notes. “Memories are a mix of the happy ones and the gloomy ones. Hopefully, our collection will bring you back to a time of fun memories. I hope that from tomorrow, it will go with you on the way to new memories and that you and I can create a better world together.”

Supported by Rakuten, the headline sponsor of Tokyo Fashion Week, as a part of its “by R” program, the show was likely the largest of the in-person events of the week. Ochiai arranged the seats in a single row around the perimeter of the cavernous space, with the models looping around and criss-crossing through it.

The designer used a rainbow of bright colors and athletic influences to create a fun, uplifting collection of fashion-forward streetwear. An ankle-length, bell-sleeved dress made from layers of colored organdy, and ruffled chiffon dressing gowns layered over jackets provided a modern look at traditional feminine norms, while the majority of the collection was made up of unisex pieces. There were multiple versions of tracksuits — colorful patchwork ones, some with the back of blouson jackets removed and replaced with ribbons or ruffles, and ones that were modern takes on loosely tailored suits. Trenchcoats were another staple, in pastel colors and accented with Ochiai’s son’s drawings or with contrast panels of plaid fabric.

While his spring offering was somewhat simpler than many of his previous collections, the designer still showed looks that employed his signature deconstructing and rearranging of contrasting pieces and textures. A pullover mixed mustard yellow pleats with a black work shirt and zip-off, brown camouflage sleeves. A raw denim jacket had a similar asymmetric silhouette, and a tuxedo jacket had layered lapels, a large zippered pocket and multiple long straps trailing off of it. A series of black canvas jackets inspired by firefighters’ uniforms were accented with bands of bright neon pink and yellow, as well as reflective tape.

The timing of the first Facetasm show to be held in Tokyo for five years was significant to Ochiai, given the ongoing pandemic that is affecting millions around the world.

“I did my very first fashion show in 2011, after a massive earthquake struck Japan, causing a lot of pain and loss,” the designer said after the show. “I remember how worried I was, but it also motivated me to make my fashion week debut and to show a positive collection. I had a very similar feeling when preparing this collection and show.”

Launch Gallery: Facetasm RTW Spring 2021

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