F/W 24-25 Preview: Denim Mills Introduce New Colors and Dye Technologies
Streamlining dyeing processes and improving color are focal points for innovation in the denim industry. Fittingly, mills’ Fall/Winter 2024-2025 fabric collections are dense with newness and color.
Soorty has developed new colors that achieve “attractive washes with less time,” said Noman Nadir, Soorty’s VP research and product development. The colors span Herbal Blue, New Green Cast and Gray Cast to laser-friendly shades of blue and black.
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Soorty’s SmartCare Laundry system is helping the vertically integrated denim producer create fashion washes with ecological wash treatments. “Evolve is a concept powered by responsible chemicals in which we treat our garments with zero discharge green screen compliant chemicals, potassium permanganate alternates, and chlorine replacements to achieve low impact in washing,” Nadir said.
Meanwhile, Econic employs technologies to bring “precision and efficient execution of ideas.” Technologies include Jeanologia’s laser, E-flow, Ozone and EIM software and Tonello’s wet process machines like Up, Core, NoStone and EcoFree2.
NDL is in a gray era, offering an array of muted tones to deeper shades ranging from smokey and misty gray to silvery hues and blue undertones. Rashid Iqbal, NDL’s executive director of marketing, said gray family is “timeless” and “complements any skin tone and flatters every fit.”
In addition to overdyeing and bright indigo shades, Indigo Textile is seeing strong interest in Blue Gray, “a bright fresh casted” gray from last season. The mill has incorporated its cleanest dyeing technique called Diamond 2.0, which saves 91 percent water and is salt-free.
Artistic Fabric Mills is trialing eco-friendly natural dyes with highs and lows when washed down. The mill is introducing Sand Brown One, an environmentally friendly sulphur dyed shade made with Archroma’s One Denim technology.
“In the laundry, we are focusing on ’80s and ’90s inspired washes without the use of pumice stones and through nano bubble technology to reduce the use of toxic chemicals and materials,” said Haya Iqbal Ahmed, Artistic Fabric Mills director.
Some of AGI Denim’s “most loved” colors in the last two seasons are Dusty Blue and Melted Green, which provide newness in a way that still supports the core range, said Henry Wong, AGI Denim VP product development and marketing.
Green casted denim and bright blue are part of Tat-Fung’s color story. Royston Blue, a greenish-blue hue, is inspired by the Royston Turquoise stone. Snow Blue is made with a formula that maintains its shine even after multiple washes, ensuring that jeans always appear fresh and new. Sunglow Blue is a nostalgic blue with a vintage aesthetic. The fabric is engineered with a built-in patina, eliminating the need for any additional tinting during the laundry process.
Tat-Fung is introducing sustainable Retro Dye for color denim. “One of the key benefits of this dye is its compatibility with any denim laundry, freeing designers from the hassle of locating a reliable garment dye factory,” said Tim Huesemann, Tat-Fung’s sales director.
Cone Denim’s color story has a moody palette with vibrant energy. “‘Mood-positive’ colors are how we have framed this group when conceptualizing,” Scavuzzo said.
Cone’s new color system called Dye-Namic, applies color through overdye. This method, according to Pierette Scavuzzo, Cone Denim design director, allows a 92 percent water savings compared to traditional overdye methods and offers a unique range of colors. “With our investment in the Jeanologia G2 Dynamic finishing range, our R&D team has explored different ways to utilize this technology,” she said.
Graceland, a dusty burgundy, and Blue Smoke, a cast of blue/gray, are able to achieve great dimension in the wash just as indigo does. Black Cherry—described as a deep burgundy or cherry cola color—serves as a black alternative. Scavuzzo said it’s dark enough to merchandise in with a black denim palette, but that added black cherry cast gives it mystery and dimension.
“Advance Sico in Nah Trang Vietnam is currently at the forefront of mixing the newest dye trends with the most iconic dyeing technology to create the future vintage styles Advance Denim’s director for North American marketing.
The Morrison dye range, created with Japanese dye experts, has been the centerpiece of Advance Sico’s production for decades, he said. A highlight is the Royal V8, a deep and dark pure indigo with a clean wash down that does not flare red. The color is achieved using Advance’s BioBlue indigo process which uses a sodium hydrosulfite-free reduction process. The result is a cleaner and safer indigo dye that has fewer effluent issues without affecting the quality.
Long lasting color is a focus for Naveena Denim Mills. The mill is expanding its Pitch Black collection which offers fabrics with no color change after 20-plus home laundering with excellent color fastness.
Calik’s Rawtech fabrics maintain color as well. Geared to raw denim enthusiasts, Rawtech products retain their color even after “many home laundries,” the mill stated. The fabrics also have low weft shrinkage values.
