An Expert Breaks Down the Difference Between White Gold and Silver
"Hearst Magazines and Yahoo may earn commission or revenue on some items through these links."
When you're browsing the jewelry counter for yourself or someone special, you want to buy the best pieces you can afford. That’s easier said than done when there are countless design choices and so many different types of metals. For example, white gold and silver can easily be mistaken for each other at a glance, but they’re actually quite different.
Looking at the two side by side, “most people would probably blanket it under, ‘Oh, it looks silver,’” says Olivia Landau, graduate gemologist and founder and CEO of The Clear Cut. She says most people think of jewelry as “silver and gold,” so any white metal, including white gold, is generally thought of as silver.
Price is a big clue when trying to identify whether a necklace or ring is silver or white gold. White gold is generally more expensive than silver, but that’s just the beginning of what sets these metals apart from one another. Below, Landau breaks down the major differences between white gold and silver, so you’ll know exactly what you’re shopping for the next time you’re in the market for some bling.
How do the materials differ?
White gold is considered a fine metal: It’s an alloy made up of a mixture of yellow gold and added metals that create its white color. An 18-karat piece of white gold jewelry is typically a mix of 75% yellow gold and 25% nickel and zinc, according to the United States Geological Survey (USGS).
Silver, on the other hand, is not considered a fine metal. “Silver is a lot more affordable,” says Landau. “You can get silver pieces for under $20.”
How can you tell between the two materials at a glance?
To distinguish white gold from silver just by looking at it, you’ll have to pick up the piece of jewelry you’re interested in — or view it from the right angle — to find a marking that correlates to its purity rating. “All metal legally needs to be stamped,” explains Landau.
For white gold, a 14-karat piece of jewelry is stamped with “14K” or “585,” which means the white gold is made with 58.5% yellow gold and 41.5% other metals. On 18-karat white gold, you’ll see “18K” or “750” stamped inside, correlating to the 75% yellow gold content.
Silver jewelry is stamped with “950,” meaning it’s 95% pure silver (and 5% alloy), or “925,” which means it has 92.5% pure silver (and 7.5% alloy).
Landau notes that platinum, which is much more expensive and valuable than white gold and silver, also has a shiny white finish — you don’t want to accidentally buy platinum when you were looking for white gold. Platinum jewelry is marked with “Platinum,” “PT,” or “PLAT,” along with either “999” or “950.”
When in doubt, look for a stamp, and you’ll know exactly which metal you have.
Which is more valuable?
Once you've checked the stamp of your jewelry piece, you should be able to make an inference of how much it's worth.
Of your white gold and silver options, 18-karat white gold is the most valuable, according to Landau. She puts 14-karat white gold right behind it, “and then far, far, far away from both of those is gonna be silver,” she says. As aforementioned, white gold is classified as a fine metal, whereas silver lacks that distinction.
You can also see the value reflected in retailer price differences. For example, a pair of 14-karat white gold hoop earrings at Nordstrom costs $150, while a similar pair in silver is $68.
How do they hold up with time and wear?
Given everything you’ve learned about the differences between white gold and silver, you can probably guess that white gold is the more durable metal.
While it won’t tarnish, white gold can turn yellow over time because it’s not pure gold. “You might notice if you wear white gold rings, in certain places where the ring rubs against your finger, it might seem a little bit yellowish,” explains Landau.
In that case, she suggests an annual rhodium plating for your white gold “to maintain that white metallic look.” Rhodium is found in nickel and platinum ores, and it gives jewelry a nice, shiny finish.
Silver, on the other hand, tarnishes very easily, so it requires a bit more upkeep to keep it looking its best. Landau says you can bring your silver jewelry back to life by polishing it, but it will tarnish again eventually.
What are the most popular ways they’re used in jewelry?
Here's another hint to help you identify white gold or silver while you’re shopping: the materials tend to be used in different types of jewelry.
“White gold is great for everyday pieces of jewelry,” says Landau. “Think studs that you wear in your ears every day that you don't wanna take out.” She also points to pendants or other necklaces you want to wear often without worrying they might tarnish.
Silver jewelry lends itself more to “high costume” pieces you don’t count on lasting forever, according to Landau. “If you want something with a really chunky look or something that's trendy — but it's not necessarily something you're gonna wear every day — that's when you would get silver.”
You Might Also Like
