How to Experience Canada's Coolest, Food-Filled Suburb — Including a Self-Guided Dumpling Trail

This outer suburb of Vancouver has a thriving culinary scene thanks to a strong community of Chinese Canadians.

Tucked between the wide-open Strait of Georgia and the towering buildings punctuating the Vancouver skyline is the quiet suburb of Richmond. Far less famous than its big-city counterpart, Richmond could easily fall off the radar. That is, until you take a stroll past its pastel homes, gaze at the winding Fraser River and the snowcapped peaks in the distance, and realize it’s worthy of a visit in its own right.

But what makes Richmond a destination unlike any other isn’t just its beauty: It’s the people, their culture, and their food—namely, the strong Chinese diaspora that calls Richmond home. The Vancouver metro area has one of the largest Chinese populations in North America, and around half of Richmond’s residents claim Chinese descent. As a result, the city’s restaurants are renowned for their cuisine, with many serving regional Chinese and Asian dishes found nowhere else on this side of the Pacific.

With easy access to locally plucked produce and fresh seafood, the culinary scene here is unmatched, from handmade dumplings served in an unassuming food-court stall to exquisite fine dining found in upscale waterfront spots. Here are some of Richmond’s most thrilling culinary movements, offerings, and purveyors.

Night market moves

Often compared to the night markets in Kowloon or Singapore, the Richmond Night Market takes it to the next level with food from around the world—upward of 600 different dishes are served out of more than 110 stalls. The largest of its kind in North America, the night market is a summer showcase of the city’s culinary scene, highlighting the best Asian street eats, along with bites and beverages from places like Turkey, Mexico, and Barbados. From deep-fried bao buns to churros and butterbeer, you can feed for hours here from Friday to Sunday evenings May through September.

Dumplings galore

Head out on a self-guided tour along the Dumpling Trail, a curated catalog of 15 eateries. Start with traditional dim sum at Empire Seafood Restaurant, one of Richmond’s oldest dim sum destinations. Pan-fried prawn and chive dumplings are a classic, and Jade Seafood Restaurant, another standout dim sum spot, makes the best. For the finest soup dumplings, head to Suhang Restaurant, where meat is stuffed into perfect little pouches and doused in a steamy broth. Bánh Mì Très Bon is a modern Vietnamese eatery with delightful decor, where chewy tapioca dumplings filled with shrimp and pork are topped with crispy shallots and served with fish sauce.

The finer things

An emerging trend in Richmond is the rapid rise of modern fine-dining restaurants. The newly opened Acre Through the Seasons tells the story of “Forest, Forage, and Wild Game” through a tasting menu that combines local produce from the restaurant’s lavender farm and greenhouse with visually pleasing plates (think foie gras topped with sea buckthorn berries, served on a leaf that’s balanced on a twig). Baan Lao serves next-level Thai cuisine in a space overlooking the Fraser River, where white-gloved servers present picture-perfect dishes. Try the “From the Fields of Thailand to the Shores of Canada,” a signature tasting experience that showcases the journey of chef-owner Nutcha Phanthoupheng’s life growing up in rural Thailand and planting her roots in British Columbia—a dining experience that has earned the restaurant endless accolades.

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