EXCLUSIVE: Ulla Johnson Launching Denim Collection
Ulla Johnson is making her true blue love official by launching a denim collection at her runway show Sunday, which will available for preorder the next day.
Ulla Johnson Denim will include four jean styles and one jacket available in a variety of washes, all made in Los Angeles.
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“We have been dabbling in denim for many years, but playing with it as fashion pieces and dresses, not like a forever classic core or developed with the degree of artistry we’re doing now as a category instead of cut and sew,” Johnson said, explaining that the collection has been in the works for a year and a half in L.A., where she will open a store and garden in August on Beverly Boulevard in West Hollywood at the former Stella McCartney space.
“We’re putting roots down in L.A., I lived in L.A. and there is a big affinity for the brand there. It in every way felt right,” she said. “The factory we are working with has been doing denim for 30 years, and when I visited it was quite awe-inspiring how they are working to develop sustainable practices with lasers, and minimizing chemical and water use. This is also a way for us to honor domestic manufacturing…because it’s largely dried up in New York especially for premium garments.”
Styles include the feminine-feeling Agnes high-waisted straight leg; the Elodie relaxed full leg that pools at the ankles; the Genevieve wide-cuffed leg with pintuck details, and Daphne slouchy boyfriend fit that sits lower on the hips. The Odette Jacket has a nipped waist, voluminous sleeves and a shearling collar trim. Sizing is 24 to 31, and prices $375 to $495. The styles, which start-shipping in June or July, are intended to pair easily with collection pieces.
“I spent a lot of time thinking about what she wears denim with, all the range of boots, sneakers and flats, if she wants to wear it more sexy or day,” Johnson said.
The core palette is Danube indigo, Tigres dark indigo and smoke wash, complemented by season colors, starting with rosewood and umbre.
“We wanted dark and broken-down indigo but not overly distressed so you can wear it and own it forever, but it feels like you already have. We have a perfect black — sometimes it can look too gray or too saturated and attracts lint, so the black is important. Then we did two colors, our signature rosewood color, which is a neutral, then we have an autumnal umbre brown color.”
Each pair is finished with a raw leather logo-embossed waistband patch, rivets, a button featuring the new brand logo, and a hand-hammered ring in copper, matte gold or polished gold on the back belt loop, harking back to the brand’s signature jewelry made in partnership with Kenyan artisans.
“We wanted to bring that idea of jewelry into denim, and we chose a different color hardware for each wash to make the pieces feel special,” Johnson explained.
The designer has seen success selling with online trunk shows directly following her runway shows, so it was natural to launch denim that way, too.
“We just want our woman to feel engaged, and we do quite a bit of selling this way,” she said. The line will also be wholesaled. “We had such success with the launch of swim, I think people are excited to introduce a new category. But this will be sitting more with ready-to-wear than with the denim world.”
Teasing the theme for the fall collection that will also bow on Sunday, Johnson called it “baroque psychedelic,” which should make the new denim a perfect counterpoint.
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